NSF Door Wont Unlock

[BRUN]

My nsf door has decided it doesnt want to unlock, the mech makes a noise and sometimes the pin moves a bit, but it doesnt usually unlock, every so often it has unlocked, so im hoping when i come to replace the lock i can get the thing open !

 

Im wondering how hard it is to fit a new lock mech, any tools i might need etc, i dont want to have to strip it down twice

[gewstarr]

Is only the electronic lock affected, i mean can you unlock it by hand, purely mechanical force?

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[softscoop]

You'll need to remove the ancillaries carrier to get to the lock mech. Being a 53 plate yours will be bolted on, and you'll be glad as it makes the job 500x easier to do DIY.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/

 

Once you've got that off, it's quite straight forward to replace the lock mech.

Edited 2 March, 2016 by softscoop

[softscoop]

If your pin is moving slightly, try pulling it up at the same time as pressing the unlock button.

 

This is what mine sounded like not long before it did the same as yours and I had to replace it.

 

Edited 2 March, 2016 by softscoop

[BRUN]

Thanks guys, appreciated

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[flodoms]

A 53 plate NSF will be riveted on I'm afraid, you can order the rivets from Skoda and a pop rivet gun with right end on eBay. I did this job very recently with my OH, once it unlocked close to the time I left the doors unlocked rather than risk a jam. A lot of people will say remove the bottom three screws from the door card just in case it does jam closed.

[BRUN]

Noooo really, never used rivets before

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[Thisday]

Noooo really, never used rivets before

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Get good quality 6mm (Poss also 6.5mm) HSS drill bits and drill that will last to drill old ones out, also grab a hammer/decent screwdriver/mole grips in case they end up just spinning in the hole and you have to get the top off to remove.

I bought a lazy tong riveter from toolstation for the job, I've heard the other type won't be big enough(never tested it though), plus you need a decent amount of force to 'set' the rivets, which is harder to deliver using the 'standard' rivet gun in my opinion.

Edited 3 March, 2016 by Thisday

[softscoop]

A 53 plate will be bolted. They changed to rivets around mid 2004.

I had a 53 plate and it was bolted

[BRUN]

It better had be, door has actually opened now !

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[Thisday]

It better had be, door has actually opened now !

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Under the door card there are 3 torx screws get them out now. You can remove the door card without damaging it when these are removed. If it gets locked again

[BRUN]

Is only the electronic lock affected, i mean can you unlock it by hand, purely mechanical force?

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It doesn't unlock off the handle inside no

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[BRUN]

Done it, only took 5 hours lol

Ended up needing a new window reg, the old one fell to pieces

Not convinced I have the correct lock as it's acting strangely, sometimes locks the whole car when shutting the door

I bought the number given from the parts catalogue, but it doesn't match the one I took off !

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[Thisday]

Done it, only took 5 hours lol

Ended up needing a new window reg, the old one fell to pieces

Not convinced I have the correct lock as it's acting strangely, sometimes locks the whole car when shutting the door

I bought the number given from the parts catalogue, but it doesn't match the one I took off !

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If I remember right I think they changed the part no.s but dealer should be able to tell you if that was the case. Which did you fit? Mine ended AM I think

[BRUN]

My lock part number changed to the one I bought so it's defo correct, might be faulty

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[BRUN]

This just goes from bad to worse

 

NSF lock not always unlocking, after 4-5 days it decided to unlock so I fitted a lock from a breakers on Ebay, that lock decided to lock the whole car while driving randomly, and sometimes when shutting the door it would lock the whole car

 

Got another lock from the same seller, agreed to credit the other lock once id replaced it, just fitted the replacement and my door is now locked shut again ! The indication pin is moving as it should be, which it wasnt on the first lock

 

The door card is off, if I can remove the window reg/carrier etc and get my hand to the lock, would i have any chance of getting the door open ? What would I need to do ?

 

I really didnt want to have to buy a new lock at £150+, its money I cant afford, we are saving/paying for our wedding

[Thisday]

Do you mean it won't unlock or that it won't open?

If the latter have you tried both inside and outside handles? The inside cable should be able to unlock it, if this is the case, just grab the wire and pull.

Don't spend 150, on a new lock, I'll post you the link to where I bought mine. Email him first with part No. And he will let you know which to buy. Both the ones I've off then are fine.

 

edit -right this is what I bought/who I bought from - obviously this is for a rear one (although I dont know if there is any difference - check the part No. on the link - it matched mine)

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Rear-Left-Door-Lock-Mechanism-Actuator-SEAT-Leon-1M1-Toledo-II-3B4839015AM-/321812062357?hash=item4aed7e6095

Edited 12 March, 2016 by Thisday

[BRUN]

It won't open off the inner cable, or outer handle

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[Thisday]

Have you tried pulling on the outer cable without it being attached to the handle?

Sounds something up with the lock itself to me then. And the only solution I know to that is smashy smashy.

Hopefully someone else will be able to suggest something for you.

Have you tried disconnecting the battery as suggested before?

[BRUN]

I've already attached the outer cable to the handle and shut the door sadly.

Not tried disconnecting the battery no

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[Thisday]

You can still get hold of the cable, as when you put it into the handle - take the plastic 'end' back out of the handle and give that a tug.

 

Think with my new lock I had the same problem (except mine opened from the inside--i make sure i fully test everything before putting carrier back on). So I ended up moving the handle cable further 'out' from where it was originally located in the handle 

[BRUN]

I've already put the handle end cap back on and locked it in with the screw, which I now can't get to with the door shut

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[Thisday]

ahhh of course. 

 

sorry, im out of ideas for the min. hopefully someone more astute will stop by an be able to assist

[BRUN]

so even if i can get the carrier off and get my hand to the lock, their isnt anything i can do ?

 

its as though the actual mechanical part of the lock which goes around the striker isnt moving, because the door pin is moving up and down normally, and the lock is making all the right noises, but the door just wont open

[Thisday]

Only thing I can suggest is have a play with your old lock and see if that give you some ideas.

Your going to have to get the carrier off again either way, so get that done and try any thing you can think of with/without power(just unplug it from the loom) and whilst operating the lock and pulling on cables/mechs.