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High Oil consumption and smoke from filler cap

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Which sealant should I use? I've been told the VW stuff cures very quickly and is also quite expensive at £38 for a tube.  Which would you recommend?

 

Sealant is Skoda D 176 600 A1

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  • It won't be rings/bores/pistons if there's oil on the ground.

  • Have you had an oil change recently, or any close encounters with road furniture? Could be problem with the filter or sump plug having been incorrectly installed (happened to mine at a Skoda dealer).

  • I think if you open the oil filler cap on a hot engine there will also be a bit of "smoke" (I use the word smoke, as I'm not sure what it is, probably more likely it is steam?)   You need to trace t

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Sealant? What sealant? If youre talking new sump pan to block you best stick with the recommended stuff. From what I've seen its really a job for an expert with car up high on a ramp.

But why not try the tape first? Wrap a fair bit round the bolt, maybe 15 to 20 times and see how she fits. Ptfe tape is cheap and its high temperature too. And failing that just epoxy the bolt in.

 

PTFE is on now already mate, but I won't know until tomorrow if it's done anything. Even still, the sump  threads are damaged so I've just been along to TPS Newcastle and bought a new sump pan. Ouch at £120, but I'd rather it was replaced so I can do future oil changes properly, rather than sucked out via the the dip stick tube. 

Edited by planehazza

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No oil dripping today, yay!  Pulled the car off of the drive and not one drop on the cardboard.  I'm still going to replace the sump though as what's to say it won't just work loose again.  I've got that booked for Wednesday, only thing left to get is the sealant.

 

The pan came with a bolt fitted. Is this a genuine, usable sump plug, or is it just a shipping/packaging part to protect the threads in transit? If the former, will it be torque correctly from factory?

Edited by planehazza

Those Smart-o-plugs are what Ford use but don't stop some ape from stripping the threads off.

Sorry for being too late I have just read this now...first the oil drain bolt thread is 14mm diameter with a thread pitch of 1.5mm (14X1.5) to repair it without using a helicoil you can buy a 15mm reamer and a (16X1.5) thread maker tool. First insert the reamer into the thread hole by turning it in tighting position with a slight push till it pass all the thread. Then turning the reamer again in the same tighting position by pulling it to get it out. Then the thread maker (16X1.5) consist from 3 tools use them to make a new thread. Buy a new 8.8 (16X1.5) bolt with copper washer. Tight the bolt. Now you have a new sumb.

Cheers dude, ordered :)

 

Is it worth me sourcing new sump pan bolts also, or just clean up the existing ones?

You are fine to re use the sump mounting bolts.

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