My car is leaving increasingly large puddles of coolant on the undertray, so I'm intending to pull the manifold off and replace the water pump in a few weeks. Whilst it is off I also intend to give the valves a bit of a clean too. This is a 2010 1.8TSI CDAA, though I believe it is almost identical to the CCZA so any VRS experience will likely be the same.

 

 

There are a few decent videos and writeups from other EA888 owners on both the manifold and the pump - generally Golf and TT - but if anyone has done the job on the Octavia and has any hints or tips, I'd be very grateful if you would share them now! I'm getting all the parts together in preparation now, so am also keen to hear of any suggestions for other bits that should be replaced at the same time.

 

A few considerations so far;

• I intend to get a new pulley bolt, drive belt and balance shaft seal so have the option of replacing it all. Some writeups reuse the old belt and leave this all alone, but I want to see how it looks and have parts on hand if needed..
• I'm getting new injector seals and also one of the cheap T10133 tool kits (e.g. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Injector-puller-injectors-18pcs-vehicles/dp/B00EDIR9TU/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1457902099&sr=8-24&keywords=injector+puller) so I should be able to pull, clean, reseal and refit them properly. These copy kits all advertise compatibility with FSI injectors and none of the suppliers will comment on compatibility with TSI but, as far as I can tell, all I need to do is take a round file to the pulling cup and I'll have a T10133C equivalent kit that Skoda refer to in their own workshop manual. If anyone knows different please let me know!
• New manifold and throttle body gasket - it doesn't look like anyone ever replaces these, but it'd just be my luck to damage one, or worse install the old and get a leak, so I think I need replacements on hand.

 

Still thinking about the following;

• Is there anything special I need to do with the pump to try to ensure future longevity? Reading about all of the Golfs with 4+ pumps replaced under warranty makes me wonder if they are made out of chocolate, but then for some reason I don't see the same reported for the Octavia. I'm not going to be able to vacuum fill the system like a dealer apparently would (but I will likely be a lot more meticulous in the installation so hopefully that counts for something!). Is there any other priming procedure recommended - or just fill it up and idle for 10+ minutes?
• Are there any good chemicals for cleaning carbon deposits (without melting valves..) available in the UK? Most folks in the USA seem to be pouring in Seafoam, CLR or other fun liquid solvents that don't seem to be sold here. I've got carburettor spray and petrol at my disposal and hope that'll be enough, but if there is a can of something more potent that I could pick up somewhere for a few quid then please do drawn my attention to it.

 

Are you anywhere near the north east mate? I'm doing the same myself and I've just ordered a genuine VW T10133 which you could borrow.  Personally, I wouldn't use anything but the right tool for the seals as they're fiddly and delicate.  If you're lucky, when the IM comes off, the injectors will stay put in the block, and not come out with the IM. With regards, to the tool, the injectors are different on the FSI and TSI, but I'm lead to believe that the tool is exactly the same.  You only need the metal bullet shaped bit, and the three collars to squish the seals into place.  If they're not perfectly fitted and seated into the injector groove, they'll not go back into the head without damaging at least the seal.  

 

Also, do yourself and favour and replace the IM now if you have any reason to think the one on now has a fault.  The task of removing the IM is very fiddly and time consuming, so if you have any p2015 errors suggesting the IM runner actuator or runners have failed, get a replacement IM.  They're £330 here, but you can get them on eBay from a VW supplier in the US for around £150 once VAT, postage, and handling fees have been applied.  The part # is  06J133201BD.

 

With regarding to cleaning, I've just bought a can off eBay for £17.  Not cheap but it's supposed to be good. What I plan on doing is simply using a large flat screw driver to carefully scrub off the large bits of carbon and gunk, then flood the port (making absolutely 100000% sure the valve is closed and sealed) with seafoam, and use a wire brush attachment on a dremel or drill to scrub the crud off.  If you haven't watched them already, here are two fantastic videos that guid you through the process start to finish.  For a novice like me, I reckon I'm looking at about 6 hours + to get the IM replaced and the ports cleaned.

 

 

 

Deutsche Auto Parts channel is fantastic.  They know their stuff and the videos (even if a bit cheesy sometimes) are very through and helpful.  They give me the confidence to do this task myself even though I'm really a car noob.

 

If you want, I can forward you all the part numbers I was given from a parts supplier on here?

 

PS, did  you just win the 4 seal kit for £20 on ebay? I was watching them and got distracted by my game and totally forgot to bid. I was gutted!

Edited 14 March, 201610 yr by planehazza

Thanks mate; unfortunately I'm in the South East. I had already purchased the injector tool kit and it's just arrived today. It's the Sealey VS2069 labelled under a different brand and only £28 (clearly made in the same factory - even down to the case moulding it is identical). I was surprised to find that It's actually at the revised spec of T10133 already, as it has the extra 6mm half-round cutout in the T10133/2A puller (see workshop manual link below, in case you need to modify yours). I do get the impression from reading around and watching videos that 90% of people removing their IM just whack any loose injectors back in with the original seals by hand - or else if they do put new seals on they do it all with their fingertips and a biro! I'm hoping the tool works, I'll give it a go and may even pull out the lot and clean the tips before resealing if it does seem to be going well.

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/drive_unit/1.8/112;_118_kw_tsi;_2.0/147_kw_tsi_engine/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/injection_valves/removing_and_installing_injection_valves/

 

Sealey instructions are here by the way,

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B7/Sealey.co.uk_VS2069_FSI_Injector_Instructions.pdf

 

 

I did see the injector seal set on Ebay but didn't bid. I'm chancing my arm on a few of the less critical components by ordering from www.genuineautoparts.com. On the face of it I wondered how genuine they are, but after a bit of digging I'm willing to give them a go. They seem to be US based, though started in Australia and have an address in Germany too. Hardly any reviews online about them, but I did find a few experiences from Mercedes owners.

 

Some prices are significantly better than UK - if I was going to do the manifold I would be tempted to get one from them, as it is only ~£90 +£9delivery rather than the £330 here! The receipt for my parts shows that I am purchasing from a German entity and the shipments apparently originate there, so there should be no additional VAT or duty to pay.

 

I don't have any errors showing in VCDS and have wiggled the flap actuator around a little to check it isn't loose, so for the moment I'm not intending to replace the IM.

 

I have seen those videos, they are both great and I'll probably have them on hand in the garage when I do the job - but I get a little nervous when EdgeMotors shoves the Dewalt+wirebrush into the ports! At the moment I'm more inclined to be a bit more gentle, but after manually scraping and scrubbing for a few minutes I may relent!

Edited 14 March, 201610 yr by simion_levi

Wow Cheers mate. I see the modification of the puller tool is fairly simple, but I don't plan on removing all the injectors anyway. I'll only be replacing the seals on the injectors that come out with the I'm, unless you think it's worth replacing all of them?

Yeah I though that method looked a bit extreme too, but I think as long as I'm careful and only let the bristles touch and not the wire centre of the tool I should be OK. Otherwise it's going to take a long time doing it by hand...

I'm looking to do this too so if you wouldn't mind putting up a bit of info regarding how you get on and any issues you encounter along the way it'd be much appreciated!

Could you link the puller you purchased too please.

Edited 14 March, 201610 yr by King85

Will do mate, it's going to be about 2 weeks before I can tackle it as I need to get this oil leak sorted first.  The tool I got was the official VW from eBay but they're pretty hard to get ahold of, and are about £160+ new.

When my waterpump failed around 95,000km my mech insisted the housing be replaced as well.  It tripled the parts cost but I haven't had any issues in the ensuing 80,000km.  The old housing looked fine though - no warpage or obvious discolouration (which is what happens when the plastic goes brittle.

 

try some non-caustic oven cleaner like Mr Muscle low odour.  I'm also told that Simple Green works well.  

 

I wouldn't be overly gentle with it.  The valves are hardened steel - I've seen videos of a guy hooking into it with a rotary wire wheel and he isn't being gentle.

I did the job over Easter without any significant issues. It took about 1.5 days with an extra pair of hands available and not rushing it - that's manifold off, injectors out & cleaned, valves cleaned and water pump replaced before it all went back together. I'm sure you could reduce that significantly with the benefit of experience though. Valves were fairly cruddy at 75K miles, not as bad as some of the Russian/American photos you see online, but there was a thick coating of carbon over the port surfaces, valve backs and some sticky lumps on the valve stems. Nylon brushes didn't touch it, but a combination of scraping with picks & screwdrivers, brass brushes and soaking with carb cleaner & seafoam did the trick.

 

There is no point in me repeating advice or information provided in the many online walkthroughs. I will only add;

 

• I replaced the throttle body and manifold gaskets. Originals probably would have been fine, they didn't appear to be too distorted, but I had the new parts on hand so swapped over anyway.
• The £28 injector toolkit (advertised as being compatible with FSI engines) worked fine to pull and reseat the TSI injectors with new seals. Mine is from Bergen, but the very same kit is available under many brands including Sealey (VS2069) and is equivalent to VW T10133C. Injector tips had some baked on carbon so I pulled all of them out of the block and cleaned them up
• You definitely need a set of metal picks during the valve cleaning process: You need to scrape behind the valve stem and at the front edge of the valve that you cannot physically see. You will not reach these areas with straight scrapers/screwdrivers.
• The M10 XZN bolt on the bottom of the manifold bracket seems to be impossible to unbolt due to a coolant pipe running across the front of it. Tried short and long M10 bits, flexi ratchets, wobble bars etc but couldn't access it from any angle with the pipe in place. It wasn't an issue for me as the pump was being changed - so after 10 minutes trying we gave up and just disconnected the pipe - but if you aren't intending to drain coolant then you may want to persevere with this! I've borrowed someone else's photo and annotated it just to highlight the issue.

 

 

 

Wow, how did I miss this? I thought I had a million posts in all the P2015/Carbon build up/intake manifold related threads! Thanks for the write up mate.  As you said in my P2015 thread, I'll get myself some picks etc. 

Thanks mate; unfortunately I'm in the South East. I had already purchased the injector tool kit and it's just arrived today. It's the Sealey VS2069 labelled under a different brand and only £28 (clearly made in the same factory - even down to the case moulding it is identical). I was surprised to find that It's actually at the revised spec of T10133 already, as it has the extra 6mm half-round cutout in the T10133/2A puller (see workshop manual link below, in case you need to modify yours). I do get the impression from reading around and watching videos that 90% of people removing their IM just whack any loose injectors back in with the original seals by hand - or else if they do put new seals on they do it all with their fingertips and a biro! I'm hoping the tool works, I'll give it a go and may even pull out the lot and clean the tips before resealing if it does seem to be going well.

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/drive_unit/1.8/112;_118_kw_tsi;_2.0/147_kw_tsi_engine/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/injection_valves/removing_and_installing_injection_valves/

 

Sealey instructions are here by the way,

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B7/Sealey.co.uk_VS2069_FSI_Injector_Instructions.pdf

 

 

I did see the injector seal set on Ebay but didn't bid. I'm chancing my arm on a few of the less critical components by ordering from www.genuineautoparts.com. On the face of it I wondered how genuine they are, but after a bit of digging I'm willing to give them a go. They seem to be US based, though started in Australia and have an address in Germany too. Hardly any reviews online about them, but I did find a few experiences from Mercedes owners.

 

Some prices are significantly better than UK - if I was going to do the manifold I would be tempted to get one from them, as it is only ~£90 +£9delivery rather than the £330 here! The receipt for my parts shows that I am purchasing from a German entity and the shipments apparently originate there, so there should be no additional VAT or duty to pay.

 

I don't have any errors showing in VCDS and have wiggled the flap actuator around a little to check it isn't loose, so for the moment I'm not intending to replace the IM.

 

I have seen those videos, they are both great and I'll probably have them on hand in the garage when I do the job - but I get a little nervous when EdgeMotors shoves the Dewalt+wirebrush into the ports! At the moment I'm more inclined to be a bit more gentle, but after manually scraping and scrubbing for a few minutes I may relent!

 

Their site confuses me a little. On my initial visit I kicked myself. I thought I was being well clever ordering the manifold (06J133201BD) from the states for about £135, but genuineautoparts suggests that it's on £75 + EU shipping.  If that's the case, well damn; I could have saved more again.  It does beg the question: why the fook are we having pay treble the price for parts over here?!?

 

TBH it may turn out that I don't replace the IM myself either.  Originally I was refusing to buy a near £330 part on an "it might need doing" basis, but for £130 I was willing to gamble.  If it turns out that there is simply nothing wrong with my IM whatsoever, and if it's purely carbon build up, I can always just sell it on to get my money back or keep it for the future in case it does eventually fail. It is a relatively common part fail afterall...

Edited 13 April, 201610 yr by planehazza

Yes, the parts I ordered from them (bolts, gaskets, injector seals etc) all turned up, delivered by UPS from Germany. I believe they are genuine VW AG parts, the injector kits were in the correct boxes and all of the loose bagged items matched up with the original parts I removed.

 

The price difference is crazy on the manifold in particular. Some other part prices are similar, some are even a little cheaper from TPS or Dealers here, but the manifold is a huge saving. My slight concern would be warranty - it is claimed that you benefit from manufacturer's warranty, so 2 years - but I don't think you would really know unless it failed and you tried to claim for a warranty replacement from a UK dealer. But even so, I would accept the risk if I needed to do it!

 

 

I gave my manifold a good clean before refitting as the flaps had some baked on carbon.

Tbh I'll probably just fit the new one for peace of mind. The car is out of warranty, and parts warranty has never been worth the paper it was written on. Vauxhall were slimey, sneaky little ******s when I had my gearbox replaced...

Hi all,

 

Thought I'd just tag along on this thread, rather than start another thread.  

 

Spend most of today removing the intake and swapping parts across to the replacement part.  Suffice to say, the valves are in dire need of a clean!

 

 

 

 

And the injector nozzles aren't much better!

 

Sorry for more questions, but honestly, I'm knackered and can't remember if I asked.  Can the crank pulley bolt be reached without taking the wheel and trim off?  If not, is it driver or passenger side?  Stupid question: would it not be easier to just put the car into gear, take the plugs out and then turn one of the front wheels by hand?

Just did it by jacking the driver side and putting the car in 4th. I took the plugs out and tured the driver side wheel clockwise (forwards) until the valves weer closed. I was able to get cylinders 2, 3, and 4 closed simultaneously.

For the record, seafoam is rubbish and overrated IMO. Wynns carb cleaner is much more suited. Unfortunately I ran out as it was only half a bottle that I had, so I've only been able to clean the separator vanes and cylinder 3 and 4 valves. The amount of gunk that has come out is insane.