Hi all, new to this

Cant get to the bottom off this.

Fabia 1 4mpi runs like ****

Tick over is noisy as hell, and it stalls on tickover a lot,

The chain sounds like cutlery in a washing machine,

Headlights and dash lights flicker constantly,

There's no acceleration power at all, I can have my foot to the floor and it hardly moves,

You couldn't put your foot down If your life depended on it, and you couldn't wheel spin if you was on a frozen lake

Theres no warning lights

Diagnostics showed speed control something

Any ideas please

Sorry for blunt post, doing this while decorating lol

Could you post the diagnostic error code?

Mine ran like a pig when the cam sensor failed, but without knowing what codes you have it's guesswork.

Also, chain noise probably isn't related. The MPI chains are notorious for rattling, you could replace the chain if the noise is bothering you, but it's normal for it to be noisy after 50k+ on it, and they seem to last fine well past 100k without breaking.

Unless of course it's REALLY worn, in which case you're risking it jumping I guess, which will certainly mess things up for you.

Edited 15 March, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

Hi,

Will have to get it read again as I didn't write the code down, I just noticed I when the bloke did the scan,

The cars on 80,000 so should last on the chain then, if its not a necessary I'll get that changed when I figure out what's up with the rest of the car.

What bothers me more is the lack off acceleration, utterly useless.

I also have recently acquired a Fabia 1.4 MPI. The electric PAS pump is noisy on mine and does need replacing. This is causing lack of power and headlights to dim/flicker due to the amount of current draw from the electric PAS pump.

Could also be that the chain has stretched/tensioner faulty causing cam sensor faults. I have experienced this on a few 1.4 twin charged engines.

Edited 15 March, 201610 yr by Bobster1985

Heard a few tales about it costing a fortune to replace that, my steering goes heavy as hell at times.

Hope its just something simple

The power steering pump draws a lot of current in normal operation. Slight dimming of the headlights when turning the steering is normal but the headlights can dim more than normal if the battery is in poor condition. I had to replace my battery for the same reason and now the headlights only dim slightly when turning the steering. Also I found that the poor battery caused my alternator to put more strain on the engine and worsened the already well-known poor idle of the 8 valve mpi engine.

 

Steering going heavy and headlights randomly flickering can be caused by a faulty steering angle sensor.

 

The angle sensor mounts on the steering rack and is item 6 or 10 here depending on type...

Thanks for the useful diagram,

At first I thought it was the alternator, so replaced that and put a new battery on, but it still did it,

Checked fuses, no difference, next job is to check wiring but wouldn't know where to start.

Steering going heavy is only when driving, never does it when idling,

Told my mate that the ps bottle etc is under the battery compartment but he was having none of it, so I haven't had time to see if the fluid is really low (but wouldn't this bring up a warning light, just waiting for some more pennies then I'm getting her codes read again, to see if anything new crops up

No warning light for low fluid unless the pump overheats which will log a code and the PAS light.

As for wiring checks there is a power steering fault thread that explains a lot.

Check whether or not the battery light comes on when you switch on the ignition. (It should come on, then go off again when engine starts.. A common wiring fault makes it never come on, and makes the alternator unreliable).

Buy this so you can read the codes yourself: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U281-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-VAG-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-tool-UK-/321781737221

 

It's £13, not very advanced but it will get you enough info to post codes on here where we can help you fix it, and it can clear codes.

@Tech1e cheer for reply, find that a bit idiotic that there's no light even if the fluids low, I'll also check out the wiring threads.

@Wino Yea the battery light comes on and goes out as it normally would, there's no light for the alternator so that must be ok as well

@wiredsoftware thanks for the link, I get paid Friday so I'll order one of them, but how reliable are they??

If you've got, or got access to, a multimeter, try measuring voltage right across the battery terminals with engine running.

Try this with nothing electrical on in the cabin, and then with dipped headlights and cabin fan on max.

 

This will give some idea how effectively your alternator is charging the battery.

I'll try get someone to do it, not great with stuff like that

@wiredsoftware thanks for the link, I get paid Friday so I'll order one of them, but how reliable are they??

 

Fine, I use mine all the time. It won't necessarily work on newer VW/Skoda cars or on other makes of car, but it 100% works for MK1 Fabias.

Fine, I use mine all the time. It won't necessarily work on newer VW/Skoda cars or on other makes of car, but it 100% works for MK1 Fabias.

That's all I need to hear, thanks

@wiredsoftware.

Got the reader of the link you gave, firstly it only reads the engine and srs menu, the abs and the other one says linking error.

Engine code is: 16706

Srs code is: 00532

Don't know what the other two options are for but in won't connect to them so, I'll just work with this for the mo

16706: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16706/P0322/000802

 

16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal Possible Symptoms

• Engine shuts off
• Engine doesn't start
• Tachometer / Rev Counter inoperative
• Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes

Possible Causes

• Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
• Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

Special Notes

• The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position.

 

So I guess that means the crank sensor is probably at fault. For an MPI, the sensor is this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261118725845

 

when looking at the engine from the front of the car, it's to the right of the block on the start of the gearbox housing, facing upwards. It's held on by one allen bolt, replacement should take a maximum of 45 seconds. Obviously it could be a wiring fault either, check the plug etc before you buy the sensor.

Edited 20 March, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

16706: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16706/P0322/000802

16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal Possible Symptoms

• Engine shuts off
• Engine doesn't start
• Tachometer / Rev Counter inoperative
• Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes

Possible Causes

• Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
• Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

Special Notes

• The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position.

So I guess that means the crank sensor is probably at fault. For an MPI, the sensor is this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261118725845

when looking at the engine from the front of the car, it's to the right of the block on the start of the gearbox housing, facing upwards. It's held on by one allen bolt, replacement should take a maximum of 45 seconds. Obviously it could be a wiring fault either, check the plug etc before you buy the sensor.

Cheers once again for your reply and the link, its much appreciated, I'll check the plug shortly, would this be the cause of the very poor acceleration?

Also what was the srs code?

00532 - Supply Voltage B+: Signal too Low

Possible Causes

• Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module faulty

Power Supply (Battery/Generator) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check/Repair Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module

Check Power Supply (Battery/Generator)

Special Notes

• When found in an individual control module, it's most likely a local source (e.g. wiring/connectors).

When found in multiple control modules at the same time, it's most likely a common source (e.g. ground spot, battery, generator).

Intermittent codes are often stored during low outside temperature when the battery capacity goes down and may be ignored.

Common with 16946/P0562/001378 - System Voltage: Too Low stored in other control modules.

Cheers for that, I got a funny feeling the batteries dodgy, looked at that plug @wiredsoftware and that looks perfectly fine

Could be the sensor itself of course. For the sake of £20 and 45 seconds of my time I'd get one as its throwing a code, and will run like crap and stall if the sensor is faulty. Seems to match your symptoms.

Wonder if the second code is your reader not being able to communicate, or a genuine failure of the module? Refardless, sort the other error.

By the way, clear the codes, take it for a few runs then rescan. Some stored codes may have been there for a long time.

Cheers mate, I'll defo replace the sensor, I took it out not long ago and it stalled while at lights, pulled over and re-scanned and it was throwing the same codes, so I cant replace until next week, but with your advice I know where to start.

I'm wondering I the battery is dodgy though as its thrown that code and I have the issue with the lights constantly flickering

Unless the battery is known to be quite old, I'd seriously recommend checking charging voltage, and physically looking for broken wires, because wiring-related charging faults seem to be very, very common on these cars.  I'm trying to find a link to a thread where I've put up a bunch of photos showing you where and what to look for. Back in a bit. 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/287467-load-signal-alternator-cable/ Post 7 for the theory, post 14 for the pics.

 

I think your car will have the connector in the same position as on my Polo, at the bottom of the bracket on the front of the gearbox. Not 100% sure though. It'll be near.

Edited 20 March, 201610 yr by Wino