Should these brake discs have failed MoT?

[softscoop]

Ever since I bought my car, the brakes have never felt 100% correct.

I've gone to change the front pads today, and discovered this is the state of my front discs.

They look fine from the front, but this is the rear of the disc, and is the same on both sides of the car.

From looking at the discs, they are stamped with the Skoda part number, and had a date of 06/2005.

After seeing that I assume they're the original discs fitted to the car, as it was built in August 2005, and wasn't serviced at any Skoda dealer after the first 3 years by the previous owner. Odd that they've lasted over 10 years and 130,000 miles, maybe the previous owner didn't brake much?

Now I had it MoT'd in November, and there was no brake advisory at all.

I doubt it's got that bad after only a few months. Should it have passed like that?

[mikey vrs]

They would pass a mot easily,they have lasted well though. 

[DanHarper]

Nope. Pretty much the only reason to fail on discs is structural weakness.

 

Edit: Answered "Should they pass?" rather than should they have failed :P

Edited 26 March, 2016 by DanHarper

[Breezy_Pete]

You should measure the thickness of each; could be a couple more years of use in those.

 

With regards to the brakes not feeling 100%, I'd be more inclined to be checking how many times the fluid has been changed in the service record.

Edited 26 March, 2016 by Wino

[softscoop]

Brake fluid was the first thing I tried.

I've also had it done properly by a local VAG specialist as I rushed it as it started pouring down 1/2 way through doing it, and as it didn't improve it assumed that I'd not fully flushed the old fluid out.

[softscoop]

Well I gave the fronts a very good clean up and put copper grease on all the parts where the pads slide when I put the new pads on.

I only looked at the front first as that's where most of the braking is done.

It was still the same though.

[xman]

So long as the brakes develop the required minimum braking power and balance on the rollers the actual state of the discs and pads are not part of the test believe it or not. Your discs could be wafer thin and the pads worn to the metal, but if it passes the roller test all you would get is an advisory, unless the tester regards it is in a dangerous condition.

 

You need new discs and pads and the carrier needs fettling on the edges where the pads slide using a small file to allow free movement. Its probable that the pads have been binding on the carrier so that the inner pad never fully released so binding/overheating and fading constantly.

Edited 26 March, 2016 by xman

[rw711]

You have to remember the MOT is a minimum standard much as xman and others state - 

If you are  unhappy with braking- you said its not 100 % correct - I would want to sort that ? 

- if the discs have been on a long time and they had ever been in a binding condition it could have warped them even if there is still sufficient integrity/thickness to pass an MOT - warped discs would give a shuddery and less than 100% feel to brakes but would not feel like sponginess at the pedal? - the amount of shuddering would vary has to how badly the discs were warped.

- many people just replace pads and not discs (- have had the first and done the 2nd!!)
- so you could be looking at a disc damaged by previous pads yet the pads look ok

( much as what the post above this says - in more technical detail, it happened to me on a motorbike (warped discs - pads and discs looked fine took me ages to get to bottom of it ! -  so just endorsing the post above really?)

A pad and disc set is not dear in general (unlike motorbike parts lol)  -  and fits easily without bleeding (as you have already had the fluid done)  - obviously the biggest issue may be getting the old discs off?

advisories can also something perculiar to each MOT place - I got a 'low tread - on a rear tyre which was at its lowest point 2.5 -- it would be fair comment for a front tyre on a FWD car 

Edited 27 March, 2016 by rw711

[softscoop]

I'm knew I'd be replacing the discs as soon as I saw that, it's just typical to find on a Bank holiday weekend that you need more parts.

I think some plusgas and a lump hammer is going to be required to get the carrier off though. I had a go to get a better look at the disc, but the bolts were super super tight.

It's such an odd feeling. The brakes are mostly absolutely fine, but there has always been a bit of pedal travel before they do anything, it was never like that on my Fabia. That would apply the brakes the instant you touched the brake. Occasionally they feel spongy, and I have to put my foot down further to stop. Also occasionally when I come to a complete stop, the car will still really be trying to drive forward, as if the brakes aren't enough to hold back the DSG. I then have to knock it into neutral and it stops.

I think the second one could be caused by the brake pedal switch though, as if the car doesn't realise I'm braking, then it won't try to dip the clutches. It's hard to prove though as every time I am stopped, the interlock and light on the cluster always correspond to the position of the pedal.

[DionJ]

If you're not happy with them, change the discs, but if the breaking is the same you've wasted £200

[Tilt]

Going back to your other thread, vastly improved braking was also seen on mine after I freed off all the pads in the calipers. It was almost as if the resistance of the pads not moving was directly causing the brake pedal to have far less feel to it.

 

Mike

Not thinking of my other thread, are you Mike?  . Very hot disc's.

 

I have done what you suggested, yesterday. Will find out the result on Tuesday. Fingers crossed.

Edited 27 March, 2016 by Tilt