Sealant or wax?

[dsmithmobile]

Hi guys,

Car cleaning is something I've never really got into and over the years as I've just got car washed and that was good enough or in the early days when I was enthusiastic I may have waxed it etc

I don't expect to change that routine much over the coming years but I've bought another car last week which is a dark grey colour and seen as though there are a number of light scratches here and there,I'm having a friend of mine who's a car painter give it a machine polish to tidy up the bodywork as well as he can.

So my question is,after he has machine polished the car do I apply some wax or as I've heard lots of talk about sealant products that protect the paintwork do I use that instead? Or both?

Like I say I'm not the kind of guy to be out carrying out a regular detailing regime but after it's polished I'd like your suggestions of what to apply to keep it looking reasonable and recommend a product that's easy to work with and doesn't cost a fortune if possible.

Cheers

[planehazza]

Given that you're not one to do it often (like me) it's probably even more important to get a good layer of protection on it.  Personally speaking, I'd say both.  After the car has been machine polished, don't forget to wipe it down with 50/50 water/IPA to get rid keftover particles and chemicals from the polishing, then I'd give it a layer or two of sealant, and leave it to cure for an hour or more, then give it a coat of wax.  I've not used a huge range of products, so I can only really recommend JetSeal 109 as a sealant, then something like collinite 476s or a dodo juice pro (make sure it's the pro - the standard isn't all that great).

 

I'm no expert though, so I'd wait for the pros to chime in

[littleade]

Bit of a can of worms this one! As above sealants will by and large last longer but you have to make sure the paintwork is really clean in order for it to bond. topping up after every other wash with a quick detailer to compliment your choice of wax/sealant will help prolong the protection too. Good luck!

[samuir1974]

As already said - if not performing a regular maintenance/wax routine - then going for a sealant would be recommended.

 

Once the sealant is applied; you can then top this with wax to improve protection, gloss, etc - as and when you have time.

[Sparkly]

For me its a very simple answer, no LSP lasts forever and it sounds like you want the most protection in the easiest and least time consuming fashion.  If you want years of protection you really need an SiO2 (Quartz coating) which needs a highly skilled detailer to apply well and in indoor conditions ideally)

 

Buy a bottle of Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer from Amazon and a pack of Microfibre cloths.  On untreated paint simply wash and dry the car, spray on the Sonax and spread lightly with one microfibre cloth, then a few seconds after buff with a clean mf cloth.

 

You need to be realistic about upkeep as most "accessible" waxes and sealants will not give more than three months unless applied as part of a FULL detail.  If you are going to wash clay, decontaminate and polish at 6-12 month intervals then you have lots of options but this is an 8 hour day minimum working hard on the car.

 

If on the other hand you want the very best protection/effort ratio I truly don't think an amateur enthusiast will do better than Sonax BSD straight to paint, it is almost impossible to get wrong and will give 2-3 months protection, it is not fussy as to bonding and it can be as simple as a quick walk around the car spraying and buffing to achieve a nice shine and good protection that assuming you wash your car every couple of months can be topped up indefinitely.

 

Far better investment beyond the Sonax (or whatever wax/sealant you choose) is to go online to a site like Cleanyourcar and buy a high quality wash mitt a large quality microfiber drying towel and a couple of plush microfiber buffing cloths, these above all else will help you stop the introduction of washing produced swirls and marks.

 

I hope this helps.

 

(I am aware the Sonax BSD answer is a bit tiresome, in this case I think it fits)

Edited 1 April, 2016 by Sparkly

[planehazza]

On a slightly related topic, do people do two 'types' of wash? A heavy detailing and a quick wash?  Like for example, if I've just spent 12 hours doing a full detail, in a fortnight's time when it's dirty, do you just rinsed and 2BM wash? Or reapply everything all over again?

[Sparkly]

On a slightly related topic, do people do two 'types' of wash? A heavy detailing and a quick wash?  Like for example, if I've just spent 12 hours doing a full detail, in a fortnight's time when it's dirty, do you just rinsed and 2BM wash? Or reapply everything all over again?

 

Yes, I think of detailing in terms of "full" or "maintenance"

 

Once I have a car protected after a "full" detail I would for "maintenance" only snowfoam,rinse, wash, dry and then refresh the LSP with a quick detail spray unless I had a specific reason to add another coat of wax or sealant such as the particular LSP requiring 2-3 coats each applied at 24 hour intervals

Edited 1 April, 2016 by Sparkly

[planehazza]

Yes, I think of detailing in terms of "full" or "maintenance"

 

Once I have a car protected after a "full" detail I would for "maintenance" only snowfoam,rinse, wash, dry and then refresh the LSP with a quick detail spray unless I had a specific reason to add another coat of wax or sealant such as the particular LSP requiring 2-3 coats each applied at 24 hour intervals

 

I'd love to do this, but for me to apply 3 coats, 24 hours apart, I'd need access to a garage that I don't have.

[samuir1974]

For me its a very simple answer, no LSP lasts forever and it sounds like you want the most protection in the easiest and least time consuming fashion.  If you want years of protection you really need an SiO2 (Quartz coating) which needs a highly skilled detailer to apply well and in indoor conditions ideally)

 

Buy a bottle of Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer from Amazon and a pack of Microfibre cloths.  On untreated paint simply wash and dry the car, spray on the Sonax and spread lightly with one microfibre cloth, then a few seconds after buff with a clean mf cloth.

 

You need to be realistic about upkeep as most "accessible" waxes and sealants will not give more than three months unless applied as part of a FULL detail.  If you are going to wash clay, decontaminate and polish at 6-12 month intervals then you have lots of options but this is an 8 hour day minimum working hard on the car.

 

If on the other hand you want the very best protection/effort ratio I truly don't think an amateur enthusiast will do better than Sonax BSD straight to paint, it is almost impossible to get wrong and will give 2-3 months protection, it is not fussy as to bonding and it can be as simple as a quick walk around the car spraying and buffing to achieve a nice shine and good protection that assuming you wash your car every couple of months can be topped up indefinitely.

 

Far better investment beyond the Sonax (or whatever wax/sealant you choose) is to go online to a site like Cleanyourcar and buy a high quality wash mitt a large quality microfiber drying towel and a couple of plush microfiber buffing cloths, these above all else will help you stop the introduction of washing produced swirls and marks.

 

I hope this helps.

 

(I am aware the Sonax BSD answer is a bit tiresome, in this case I think it fits)

 

 

Superb reply here - lots of valid points and info to consider. :yes:

 

Great to have you back and actively posting Sparkly

[dsmithmobile]

Thanks for the replies guys,I'm not expecting it to last forever,was just curious about sealant as I've never seen it or used it,just heard it mentioned over time.

I would normally just give a car a coat of wax after a machine polish in the past but if sealant is the better option then I'll seal it and if need be give it a wax afterwards.i will try to keep it clean but can't say I have the patience to spend hours doing an intense cleaning routine.

Thanks again for the replies

[Sparkly]

Thanks for the replies guys,I'm not expecting it to last forever,was just curious about sealant as I've never seen it or used it,just heard it mentioned over time.

I would normally just give a car a coat of wax after a machine polish in the past but if sealant is the better option then I'll seal it and if need be give it a wax afterwards.i will try to keep it clean but can't say I have the patience to spend hours doing an intense cleaning routine.

Thanks again for the replies

 

The Sonax although labelled a Quick Detailer is essentially a Nano Polymer Spray Sealant that is very easy to use.

 

As you say protection doesn't last forever, as a general rule of thumb if you pick from the good ones (because there will always be examples to contradict this statement) then a Hybrid Wax (has synthetic parts to it's formula alongside Carnauba or pure synthetic formula) and Synthetic Sealants will outlast traditional Carnauba waxes, Silica based coatings and other advanced formula products last the longest.

 

On your last comment I truly believe my advice on Sonax will stand you in really good stead, don't wax over the top as this will effectively act as contamination when you later wash and replenish the protection.  If you wash and then apply the same product everytime your top layer should look something like:

 

Sonax: Sonax: Sonax GOOD

 

If you Wax after then you could potentially after a couple of washes have a top layer protection of

 

Sonax: Wax: Sonax BAD

 

The layer of slightly broken down wax between the layers of sealant will stop the newest layer of sealant bonding as well as it could leading to shorter life of your protection.  The car will still be protected but it will likely not bead well and dirt may accumulate quicker meaning more frequent washing.  Sonax is the most forgiving sealant I know in respect of this but it should be understood that you will lower durability.

 

Now given that Wax creates a weaker bond with the surface beneath and breaks down quicker over time, this is the usual reason for putting your sealant closest to the paint and why Wax is the outer sacrificial layer that you reapply each time meaning if you wax after each wash you get.

 

Sonax: Wax: Wax GOOD

 

But this is more labour intensive 

Edited 1 April, 2016 by Sparkly

[Rainmaker]

Sparkly knows the score. I've got three bottles of BSD atm as they're on offer at EuroCarParts online (£5 each, normally £13). Use code EASTER20 for an extra 20% off again (the code was working as of 1st April), and choose the free delivery option. Sorted!

 

Our S3 was picked up yesterday (1st) and was left in transport and interior wraps for us to sort properly. Thanks to being unwrapped properly by us, there's not a single blemish in the clearcoat, anywhere. Shame it's set for rain tomorrow but that won't stop me giving it a going over with Power Maxed traffic film remover, Bilt Hamer AutoFoam, Gyeon Tar, Sonax Fallout Remover and a Chemical Guys light clay to get it sparkly. 

 

After that it'll be 2:2:1 of C2v3 : BSD : distilled water for me (plus C5 for the alloys and CG Fabric Guard with C6 matte dash for the interior). I did contemplate FK 1000p just because of the dark metallic petrol blue, but I love my BSD tooooo much.

Edited 1 April, 2016 by Derv