Headlight problems with Felicia -98 MPI

[JussiG7]

Hi,

 

About a week ago I suddenly lost the high beams totally from my dear 98- Felicia Combi.

 

The daylight position works: The headlights come on as I start the car, and the low beams work well. And there is no light in the dashboard.

But in the evening as I try to switch to the "night position", I get a result: The lights in the dashboard come on, but I lose the both, high and low beams.

 

I changed the both switches on the left hand (I´m from Finland), it means  1.The switch for the sidelights and   2.The switch for the low beams, but it did not help at all.

 

Then I replaced two relays in the fuse box:  R1 The main relay (for the lights) and   R6 The warning buzzer relay. No effect either.

 

The fuses seem to be specified only for single bulbs, I can´t find any general fuse for the headlights. So, what else could I do ?

 

If somebody could give some advice, I would be grateful  :sun: 

 

I try to attach here some photos to make the situation clearer. Here are those two switches that I took from my older car. They were in good condition. The photo is downloaded from this site and belongs to RicardoM.

 

And here I have a photo of the same kind of fuse box that is in my car. I am not quite sure about those two relays R1 and R6, I mean for what they really exist, because I have got so many different names depending on the sources. And almost never it is mentioned, from which model the pic is from.

 

With Best Regards from Finland, JG

[RicardoM]

Juha

A few questions for you:

1. Are the headlight bulbs OK?
2. When you say "there is no light in the dashboard" you mean all lights or just the main beam indicator?
3. Are all fuses OK?
4. Is the headlight flasher working?
5. Any modifications to factory wiring?
6. Is there any water in the relay box or headlights?

Based on the list of parts changed, I assume electricity and using a multimeter are not your strong points. Am I right? I am asking only to know how much information to share.

 

From the frequency of failure on other Felicias, the most often fails the combo-switch for main beam / flasher / direction indicator. But don't hurry yet to buy a new one. My rule is "find evidence first, then repair or buy parts".

Edited 7 April, 2016 by RicardoM

[JussiG7]

Hi Ricardo

Just going to bed, but thanks about the reply!

1. Headlight bulbs are ok, because at night I can use the low beams all the time, though I can´t see anything in dashboard. And I am able to use also high beams if I hold the switch in a flash position with my finger. The flash shows me that also the the bulbs of the high beams are ok.

2. I mean literally all the lights in the dashboard.

3. I have not cheked the fuses, yet. Must do it tomorrow. But it would help a lot, if I knew, which fuses are the most important ones.

4. The headlight flasher works in any case, if the ignition is on.

5. The previous owner had built a system from the battery to big fog lights, that had their own relay in the engine compartment. I removed the whole wiring system, as the previous owner kept those fog lights himself. As far as I know, there are no other modifications.

6. There is no water in the fuse box or inside the headlights.

And yes, the electricity definetely is not my strong point I have used multimeter a lot during the past 4 years, as I have had to try to solve car electricity problems, but I can measure volts, ohms and so on only if I know, where to put the connectors of the multimeter.

The combo switch could be broken, but I doubt it, because there were no symptoms before. And after the problem began suddenly, there has never been a slightest sign of high beams. I mean, it broke totally, not bit by bit.

But tomorrow I shall check the fuses. Hope that the reason for these symptoms would appear some day.

[RicardoM]

But in the evening as I try to switch to the "night position", I get a result: The lights in the dashboard come on, but I lose the both, high and low beams.

What exactly do you mean by switch to the "night position" ? Switch on sidelights and headlights (left-hand switches)?

 

The photo that you posted showing the relay box has an incorrect annotation. R6 is not the warning buzzer for lights on. Your car has fitted a day-time driving lights relay instead. The sidelights switch is different too on cars having day-time driving lights. The warning buzzer for lights on is fitted on the back of instrument cluster.

 

Hope that the reason for these symptoms would appear some day.

You can count on that. So long as you follow my advice, you'll find evidence for that.

Edited 8 April, 2016 by RicardoM

[HeavyMetalRich]

1. Headlight bulbs are ok, because at night I can use the low beams all the time, though I can´t see anything in dashboard. And I am able to use also high beams if I hold the switch in a flash position with my finger. The flash shows me that also the the bulbs of the high beams are ok.

 

Hi, the bulbs in the Felicia headlights are twin filament therefore the low beams will still function if the high beams are blown. The filament need not necessarily be broken either, it may just be burnt out and can be difficult to spot. You might be worth trying a new bulb.

 

The fact that both went at the same time, might point to something else in the system though. The light stalk/lever is a known weak point although again, it may not be broken either, just in need of a clean up.

 

Ricardo, I think by "night position" he means high/full beam.

[JussiG7]

Good Evening

It took me a long time to research my car and update those two photos, so I now must take a coffee break to tell about my new investigations.

But to correct some misunderstandings first: 1. I did not claim, that the R6 were the buzzer itself, but I thought it was the relay of the buzzer as I had been told. And really, after I lost my headlights, there came another issue: the buzzer began to yell always as I opened the door with no ignition on. It did not care if the sidelights were on or off. And that R6- relay was rather hot. So I changed it and got the buzzer function well. But today the problem occurred once again, and it definitely did not depend on that relay.

It seems more that there may be some dust or something that causes that malfunction. I bought this car 3 weeks ago, and I was told that the fuel meter stops working as the gasoline level goes below the half. I thought it might be a stuck floater or disconnection in the wiring system. Now it seem there is some kind of disconnection behind the dasboard. And as I remove the instrument cluster totally, I have to check the buzzer and the petrol meter.

So, that was the case about the R6. I now assume, that it is a relay for the daytime driving lights, if I got you right.

And the sidelights switch is different, too. It has 8 pins. But it was just to show the part I was talking about.

I took the both switches for my older Felicia -96 SPI, the one I lost my nerves and money with. But that is another story...

So, now I take a coffee break and after that will give a full report of the investigations of Friday.

[JussiG7]

Thanks about the new info, HeavyMetalRich

There are many possibilities, but the whole situation seems to me like this. This good old 1,3MPI-Fel has lived all her life on countryside. And it has been used as a mule fore different kind of building projects and so on. So, I suppose that cleaning all the possible connection would be the first thing to do, as it now was forced to live in the big city of Kouvola (90 000 inhabitants)

The symptoms began, as the winter lost its grip here in Southern Finland and the blessed spring rains began, so the humidy together with dust may be be the main reason for these symptoms.

But now the coffee break...

[JussiG7]

Right now I´m gonna describe the symptoms of my car so clearly that anybody can understand me right, though I´m tired and my English is not perfect.

 

S1 means the  switch of the sidelights     and    S2 means the switch of the headlights         

 

STEP ONE:        I sit in my car and have not yet touched the dashboard at all and have not put the ignition key into ignition switch.

                           S1 POSITION NR 1:       No lights nowhere. Good this far.

                           S1 POSITION NR 2:       I push the  S1 once. >>> The sidelights come on, so do the rear lights. And the dashboard backlights. But no signal lights, not even for sidelights.

 

STEP TWO:       I turn the ignition key but do not start the engine.   >>>    The normal warning lights come on, it means:  hand brake, oil pressure, battery and airbag.

                           S1 POSITION NR 1:       Sidelights and rear lights are on.  And the instrument panel backlights are on as they were in step one in position nr 2. No signal lights.

                           S2 POSITION NR 2:       Low beams turn on and the rear lights keep on burning, but the dashboard backlights turn off partly. It means that  the other backlights keep on burning, but the backlights behind the instrument cluster  go out totally. It is impossible to see engine warmth, speed, rpm-measures and gasoline situation.

Also two signal lights work now: the low beam signal light, that is on all the time , and the rear window heater´s signal light works. But the rear fog lights and their signal light do not burn.

 

STEP THREE:   I start the car. It starts easily and all the other functions that are needed while driving, work well. But the lights behave the same way as in step two.

 

S2 The Switch of the Headlights: No function on any step. No effect in no position. But this switch was taken from my 96-Felly and it worked well in that car (it has the same light system)

 

THE FLASHING FUNCTION is available during all the steps.

Now that I think about the information of HeavyMetalRich, I must say, I´m a bit confused. All the cars that I have owned have had  bulbs of twin filament type, if we mean the same thing.

I mean that the low and the high beam filaments located inside the same bulb has been the most common system for decades, and if this Felicia has that kind of bulbs, there is nothing special in it. I told you that I can drive with low beams or with high beams. BUT to be able to drive with high beams I do have to keep the flash function on with my finger. So, without removing the bulbs I still think that the bulbs are ok. Maybe I am wrong.

 

I went through all the fuses. One was broken, but it belongs to the left rear fog light. I bought a new one. No change in the common situation.

                          

What exactly do you mean by switch to the "night position" ? Switch on sidelights and headlights (left-hand switches)?

 

I really don´t know the official names to the different pushbutton positions, but one way to describe them is that simple day/night-  difference.

 

In Finland we have to keep the headlights on all the time as we are driving, though it is stupid (e.g. in France it is different). Sidelights are only for standing beside the road engine on or off.

So, it is natural, that there is a daylight-automatic-system, as we call it here. As you start the engine, the daytime headlights are on (low beams), and as you stop, they are off automatically.

It is very easy in the summertime, one does not have to use the night-time headlights almost at all. And in this Felicia it is the most used function around the year because of the street lights, that they have built almost everywhere here in the south.

So, the day- position is on all the time and you don´t have to push the headlights- button at all. And you don´t have to worry, if you did remember to switch off the lights or not.

 

But in winter and while driving on countryside etc. we still need the high beams,  that in this case are switched on from the other position of the headlights- switch.

So the day position means the automatic low beam position that is built in in the car . As the headlights- switch is in that position, it is not possible to use high/full beams.

And the night position means that the automatic is switched off. It means that you push the headlights- switch to the non-automatic position. Now you can use high or low beams and switch from high to low very easily with that switch stalk (if it works).

 

So, that is the way we call the light functions in Finland. May I now hear, how the same things are expressed in Dominican Republic or in UK ?

 

Sí yo podria hablar español un mejor, séria gratificante leer todos los términos en idioma Español, pero en este momento soy feliz, sí puedo manejar con Inglés

 

Recuerdos desde Finlandia  :zzz:       

[JussiG7]

And as it seems impossible for me to change the two photos in the beginning, I have to upload the better versions here.

Here is the better version of the photos of the switches:

And here could be the better version of the relays, if my net allows me to upload:

Edited 9 April, 2016 by JussiG7

[JussiG7]

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Edited 9 April, 2016 by JussiG7

[RicardoM]

While I agree Felicia is generally a reliable car, it has its share of gremlins in electrical system from age and environment. Corrosion (not dirt or dust) tends to affect some connectors causing open circuits or short circuits. Sometimes bad earth points can cause weird behaviour too. Having that in mind as a secondary possibility, let's do a recap of parts you've changed.

 

But before that, a few observations. You seem to be a man of strong convictions, but I recommend that when it comes to getting help with the car, have more doubts about your way of technical thinking. We are trying to help here and we have two major disadvantages: 1) we don't have direct access to your car, and 2) we are not wizards although we've seen a lot of defect types. We don't have a real photo of your relay panel. We don't have a real photo of your old and new sidelights and low beam lights (those you've changed) to compensate disadvantage 1. Why have a headache looking for other photos on the Internet when you can take your own?

 

About the 'night position': I was fully aware of  Scandinavian countries having mandatory automatic day-time driving / running lights (DDL or DRL). In fact I happen to have a sweet spot for those countries, but that is another story. Anyways, I wanted only a confirmation of what switches you actually press to switch to 'night position'. It's not a language barrier, your English is better than mine.

 

HeavyMetalRich might have a point about headlight bulbs. He further detailed my question about their integrity by pointing explicitly to the filaments for high beam. Yes, I saw both high beam filaments burnt. I saw both low beam filaments burnt. Heck, I even saw shorted low/high beam filaments inside the bulb   So... count on our good intentions to help.

 

Now back to the parts you've changed. As I said previously, on your car R6 is a 5-pin DRL relay. Part number is 7M0 951 253. Check what you have now. The buzzer 'relay' looks different.

 

 

This is the buzzer found on the PCB of your instrument cluster (the black cylinder).

 

 

The switch for sidelights is special too. Part number is 6U0 941 563. Check what you have now.

 

If these two parts are not the right ones or the replacements are defective... it is enough reason to have problems.

[JussiG7]

Hi Ricardo,

I may sound arrogant or a man of strong covictions, but that is not the truth. I have no doubts of my technical thinking, because I know that it is lowsy

Only thing I am sure about, that I am sick and tired of these used western cars that always have a lot of electrical issues.

I used to drive about 20 years with Russian Lada- cars, and they were so simple and reliable, that it seems to me impossible to fit in this world of western cars full of electric systems that I myself don´t need at all.

My last rear wheel drive- Lada was a 1-point GM adjusted injector car, and I used it 5 years without problems. I just had to buy an estate car and that was as I found myself walking on a wet swamp of western cars.

And during the previous 2 years I had a Felicia SPI that worked well one year (only rusty places to weld). But from the last July I´ve been trying to repair it with a help of my Finnish friends who know much more about cars as I do. Repairing it costed me over 1000 euros and still there is some electrical problem causing too much emissions and causing also that it may stop anywhere without starting any more. I read all the possible fault codes with VCDS, and repaired it so that there are no fault codes any more. But it is unavailable.

And that is the main reason as I just don´t have any more will or power to check all the things I am told to. And I am also tired of taking photos about every part, if it does not seem important.

Putting it to a one sentence: I am so tired of repairing any car that it seems better to begin to ride a bicycle instead.

Good Night

[RicardoM]

I understand your point of view about simple, reliable, very low maintenance needed cars. That is why I chose to drive a Felicia with carburetor. No computer, no injector(s), no unreliable sensors, no catalytic convertor, no HP fuel pump, etc. I get almost the same fuel consumption as Felicia 1.3 MPI and I pass easily any Euro 1 emmissions test.

 

However, I must say that the electrical system on any Felicia LX is as simple as possible. I am sorry to hear that you had electrical problems with your other SPI Felicia. Maybe you didn't meet the right car technician(s) because otherwise there isn't Felicia I couldn't repair. The more mysterious the symptoms, the more interested and determined I am to fix the problem. It's a small car, not the ISS.

 

Bottom line, since you bothered to write this topic and ask for help, I think you should go the extra mile and fix the problem. Based on your last description of symptoms (no dashboard backlights, no indicators for side/head/main lights), I find the most probable cause of your electrical problem(s) is the sidelight switch followed by the relay R6. I think that initially it was the sidelight switch that failed (melted plastic parts that push the contacts). Then you may have changed it with another faulty switch or a switch from a car with no DRL. Same thing might be true for the relay R6. I could go into further details on the wiring diagram if you are not tired fixing the car. It's not pretty riding a bycicle when it's raining.

 

PS

Read 'soft' spot instead of 'sweet' spot in my previous post.

[JussiG7]

I woke up again. Have to go to summer cottage to help my brother with a fence building.

Because the the only problem now is the lights, I dare to drive there.

Yes, that SPI- Felicia was about the simpliest injector car that man can have. And with 1.3 engine it has also timing chain (so has this MPI too).

In that sense it was close to my last Lada: timing chain, 1-point injection, no glx- electrics and so on. These 1.3 Fellows can be called the last Eastern Skodas in that sense. I am not politically bound to any direction, but those eastern cars were built for poor people that could fix them.

I checked those part numbers that you gave me. The first was about the relay nr6. You gave me a number 7M0 951 253, but with that number I found only 4- pin relays. They have the number 100, but in every case there is a question of a four-pinned common relay.

That relay photo is genuine in that sense, that in both cars there were totally black relays with number 145 as a R6. And it had five pins, I´m sure.

I have a fusebox wiring diagram, where there are 5 relay places with the same four figures: 30, 85, 86, 87 and they are R1, R2, R4, R5 and R7.

And all the relays to them are 4-pinned. So I wonder if they can be switched together.

But as we are now talking about the R6, I must say, that I had absolutely no problems with the lights in that older Felicia. Problem was BMM-electr.

So, it is difficult for me to believe that the both 145- relays could be broken. The old car has stayed there only 4 weeks. And it has DRL.

And as we talk about the sidelight and headlight switches, the answer is the same. The switches worked well in that older car with DRL.

And though I haven´t got a photo of those switches, I hold them right now in my hand.

There is no that kind of part number as 6U0 941 563 labeled in the switch. Only little Skoda logo and letters TRW and POM. and on the other side are numbers 020.6-368 And the headlight switch has the same marks, only the long number is different: 010.6-378

The probability that the relay or the switch would have broken by itself is near zero. And I removed the switch very carefully knowing it was not new any more. The same thing with the relay. Almost impossible.

Of course I shall try to fix that car. It costed 500 euros as the previous one, too. If I set all the new parts (that fit) from the old one to this new one, it might have a value of 1000 euros sold with the best rims and tyres. I mean, I´m gonna fix it though I may sell it afterwards.

But I shall not try to buy a used switch from eBay or some chinese Alibaba- part. That is a real waste of money, ´cause I don´t even know the location of the fault yet!!!

Greetings, Jussi

[RicardoM]

But I shall not try to buy a used switch from eBay or some chinese Alibaba- part. That is a real waste of money, ´cause I don´t even know the location of the fault yet!!!

Chill. Nobody said anything about buying used(?!) parts from eBay. As for being suddenly very concerned about changing parts without having found evidence first... it's funny to read that coming from somebody who replaced 2 switches and 2 relays blindly. I fully understand you have a problem spending money, Felicia owners aren't exactly rich.

 

I am an electronics engineer, if that makes any difference to you. People on this forum know that I am annoyingly accurate when I advice something. It takes time and passion to do that and all I am asking from people asking for help is cooperation. I gave you enough information to start looking for faults. However, I sense you have a very pessimistic, not constructive approach. People that want to be helped know what a team effort means. It means doing your part in diagnosis using hints from us and coming back with new useful observations. We are not having the privilege of having direct access to cars. That is a major drawback that has to be compensated by more work from the owner of the car.

 

Having said that, I wish you all the luck finding the fault. I hope you will have the time to come back and write what the problem was. It could be as simple as a wiring problem. Diagnosis is a logic tree process based also on checking and eliminating the most probable things.

[JussiG7]

Hi again!

I have tried to find car parts with your codes, but the result is always the same:

1. Sidelights switches with a code 6U0 941 563 can be found only from China from AliExpress. All the the other parts sellers, even Skoda-Dily from Chez Republic do not have a switch with that code. Some eBay- dealers do sell used parts. So, what advice would you give me, if I have to try that option?

2. And the relay number 6 with code 7M0 951 253 can be found from several places, but it is always 4- pinned. What do you think about that ?

As for being suddenly very concerned about changing parts without having found evidence first... it's funny to read that coming from somebody who replaced 2 switches and 2 relays blindly.

I myself would not call that thing "replacing blindly", because they are from my own car and have worked well. And of course they cost nothing and are available whenever I want them. If I order a switch from China, it takes about 3 weeks to have it here in Finland. This should be clear even for an engineer

I am sure that you are a very skillful man generally speaking. I have read Briskoda sites since I bought my first Skoda about two years ago. And to be honest, I admire your attitude in every sense. Not anybody would use his free time so much helping other people free. Great job

On Sunday it should be sunny here in Finland. So I´m able to do those things I planned: Removing instrument cluster and cleaning all the possible cintacts, maybe replacing new bulbs, though my little brain is not able to understand, how they could be broken. And other things that I now can´t recall.

But, above all, ride my dear bicycle to remove all the dark things inside my head while listening the birds singing and so on.

But really, to me it seems impossible to buy those items though I could afford them.

Best Recards, Jussi

[JussiG7]

Fence building all the day. No time for car. The neighbor has cut down all the trees on his summer cottage plot, maybe to get a new car...

But to me this sidelight situation seems like this: I did not (or was not able to) do the things just as Ricardo told me. He was insulted, and the conversation is over. But still I have to remind about some illogicality in Mr Ricardo´s advices:

I said:

Hope that the reason for these symptoms would appear some day.

 

Ricardo said:

You can count on that. So long as you follow my advice, you'll find evidence for that.

Ricardo said:

Now back to the parts you've changed. As I said previously, on your car R6 is a 5-pin DRL relay. Part number is 7M0 951 253. Check what you have now.

The switch for sidelights is special too. Part number is 6U0 941 563. Check what you have now.

Well, I was not able to find those numbers in those parts, but still they had been working well at least 2 years.

And I told also that for me it is impossible to find 5-pin relay with that code, ´cause all those relays are 4- pinned.

And that the only seller that seems to have a sidelight switch with that code is AliExpress in China. Chinese parts are cheap for many reasons:

1. They are made from cheaper materials, that specially in this case means that it could work maybe one month.

2. In China they still use children, political prisoners, christian prisoners etc. as a free labor force, which should be boycotted.

3. The freight is rather cheap, because shipping may take 1 month or even more .

So, what kind of team work attitude is it, if you give me advices to buy car parts that for me are impossible to buy ???

God bless you, though

Edited 10 April, 2016 by JussiG7

[mirko2008]

U can also try the hazard light switch in the sidelight switch place. My car also has the same system as yours, because it is from finland  

I have gone through like 5 sidelight switches in the past and i could not figure out what was wrong. Now i have a vaz 2101 light switch in my car and has worked great over a year now

[JussiG7]

Hi, that was some really good news!!!

Local Skodapower-site friend explained that those 8-pinned sidelight switches are used only in Scandinavia, and that would be the reason why one is not able to buy them almost anywhere. The reason may be as simple as the ridiculous law to have to use headlights all the time while driving (DRL)

Tomorrow I shall take a look at that hazard light switch.

But still more am I interested about that VAZ (Lada) 2101 light switch. It must be quite different looking switch, but I can ask about it from my old Ladaboard friends. Usually they go to Russia to buy many parts on one trip.

Thanks about the encouragement !!!

Edited 10 April, 2016 by JussiG7

[RicardoM]

But to me this sidelight situation seems like this: I did not (or was not able to) do the things just as Ricardo told me. He was insulted, and the conversation is over.

My friend, I didn't feel insulted, you didn't break any forum rule. Not sure if on human level things are the same...Furthermore, please don't try to twist my words or my intentions. I did my part and so did Rich. You got numerous hints and requests to check things in your car. Your response was far from constructive. You were tired, annoyed, fed up, reluctant, you didn't trust our logic because you couldn't figure out how things break, etc. In fact you are using more time playing semantics with me than using a multimeter and measuring the switches and relays. Not buy new ones! Who said anything about buying?? You keep complaining about China stuff as if it's my fault you don't know how to find known good parts (new or borrow from a friend or from a scrapyard for cars). I am sure that you will find all kind of inconvenience to any advice you get. To me that is enough proof you don't know how to behave yourself when somebody is trying to help. Solutions don't come on a silver platter, my friend... Let's see what part failed in the end.

 

Hi, that was some really good news!!!

Local Skodapower-site friend explained that those 8-pinned sidelight switches are used only in Scandinavia, and that would be the reason why one is not able to buy them almost anywhere.

Your friend might not know that DRL switch is identical with hazard light switch except for the symbol on the button, like mirko2008 said. So not that hard to find. Except you have to swap the buttons

Edited 10 April, 2016 by RicardoM

[JussiG7]

Here are all the advices I have been given:

1.Check the headlight bulbs.

I checked them yesterday and for my eyes both bulbs with both filaments were in condition. And so it must be, because I am able to use both low andhigh beams. Only for the high beams I have to keep the switch talk in flash position. If the filaments were in bad condition, the high beams would not work at all.

2.Check the dashboard lights.

I checked all the dashboard lights, including the instrument panel lights.

3.Check the fuses

I checked the fuses two times. The second time I noticed that the fuse of the rear fog light was broken. I switched it.

4.Bad earth may cause problems

This far I have not done anything to find out, where there might be bad earth situations, but I shall try.

5.Take photos of your fuse box and your swicthes

I told that my fuse box is like the one that is in that photo. All the relays look the same as in that photo. R6 looks like that 145. To really describe the relays, I should take them all inside my house and use a micro funtion to show what kind of circuit diagram they have.

The switches look the same, only my sidelight switch has 8 pins. Mut there is nothing else to see (outside the switch)than the Skoda logo and those numbers I wrote here.

6. Check the part numbers

I checked them but did not find those codes anywhere.

7.Both sidelights switches are broken so as both daylight relays. Replace them with unbroken ones.

It is still very difficult to understand, how the older car switch and relay could break spontaneously.

But the worst thing is that I can´t find any shop that would sell those parts.

8.You use more time playing semantics with me than using a multimeter and measuring the switches and relays

If I were able to do that, I would not be here asking questions.

Now I have to go to summer cottage to go on with that fence building.

Dear Ricardo! I suppose that you should not react at all, if here comes somebody that is unable to reed circuit diagrams and measure relays and so on. If an engineer debates with another engineer, I suppose there are no difficulties at all. But I am not an engineer. Sorry about that.

[RicardoM]

Disconnect negative battery cable.

 

1) Check visually the wiring associated with headlights, from switches to headlights. Tug lightly on wires around connectors. Look for peelings, cracks, corrosion, shorts.

2) Check very carefully the entire wiring that was added for front fog lights. No amateurish job allowed. No twisted / taped wires, no piggy-backed wiring, no fuses on wires. Everything not original must go and wiring repaired.

3) Check earth points for integrity as follows:

• E2    On (he right side of the engine compartment
• E7    On the left side of the engine compartment
• E5    Near steering column

Disconnect each earth point, clean, spray some WD40, reconnect..

 

 

After you are 100% sure the wiring is intact and original, go further. Use an ohmmeter from now on.

 

4) Remove both headlight bulbs. Look for corrosion inside both sockets. Measure each filament. Measure for short between filaments. Reconnect bulbs.

 

 

5) Remove marked fuses, inspect for melting signs, measure resistance. Anything different from 0 ohms must be replaced.

 

6) Measure correct operation of side lights switch.

 

 

7) Measure correct operation of dip beam switch.

 

 

8) Measure correct operation of lights stalk

 

 

9) Measure correct operation of DRL relay. Supply 12V between pins 86 (+) and 85 (-).

 

[RicardoM]

[JussiG7]

Just came home and saw your last messages.

That really seems the kind of information that even I myself can work with!

So right now I just say : Thanks a lot about the information and the patience! I appreciate it a lot !

JussiG

[JussiG7]

Just a little update.

1. The wiring inspection is not done totally. I have tried to built a diagram from different kind of sources, because most of them are in net with rather low resolution. But the lightning diagram is almost done.

And I have really found several piggy-backed wiring as I have gone through the wires near the fusebox. I shall fix them today.

2. Bulbs and sockets are ok.

3. I have measured the correct operation of the headlights switch, but the 8-pin sidelights switch is still halfaway.

4. The lights stalk measurement have I not measured yet, because I have needed the car daily, and it may take more time time to unconnect the airbag and the steering wheel. Suppose it is possible to start today.

5. I have measured the bot DRL- relays with number 145, and they seem to work well.

6. I opened the fusebox totally, and it was shining bright. Checked the fuses, too. All fuses are in good condition.

So, now the main issues seem to be the whole wiring system (for lights) and the combi stalk.

One notification: The rear fog lights began to work as I pushed the button of the front fog light to another position (there are no front fog lights in this car.)

I find it a little bit embarassing, but the wiring to all the switches seems to be original and unbroken.

I would like to attach a wiring diagram made By myself combining different sources, but photobucket refuses to function. But now outdoors, as we have a very warm day (10C degrees) and sun.

Edited 16 April, 2016 by JussiG7