So after fitting 312's yesterday I had the joy of slightly damaging the thread on one of the mounts, my mechanic cleaned the thread, then put the bolt back in with the addition of plenty of locktite. He explained that I'd have to get a new hub the next time we came to replace the discs/pads. However later that evening I was about to go onto the motorway (Luckily it dropped when it did) when the bolt decided to jump ship and left me with the caliper rubbing against the alloy, held in place by the remaining bolt. I have since abandoned it on a pub car park nearby.

My question is: Does anyone know the best place to buy a new brake hub from? I have looked on Ebay and there are one or two second hand ones about, however, price depending, I would rather buy a new one then I don't have this problem again in the near future. Or will a brand new one be an absolute fortune...?
I have the details of a local brake supplier and will be in touch with them tomorrow morning, but what sort of price is reasonable for a NS front brake hub? Is the 'hub' even the correct name for it? The ones on Ebay were ~£45-£50, for the 1.9sdi, not however, suitable for the 'six speed vrs models'.

Are the brake hubs from the Ibiza pd130 / Polo 130 the same as the Fabia's ?

Many thanks in advance.

JRJG

The official term is 'bearing carrier' for the upright.

If you have 312mm you can use a longer bolt and nut behind the upright, the bigger disc allows the extra room to do it.

You could also helicoil or similar to secure the bolt.

New one is around £120, part numbers and info are in the 312mm pictorial thread. Will also need a new bearing on top of that, another £115 for a genuine bearing (which is recommended).

The official term is 'bearing carrier' for the upright.

If you have 312mm you can use a longer bolt and nut behind the upright, the bigger disc allows the extra room to do it.

You could also helicoil or similar to secure the bolt.

And is it easy enough to get access to the nut despite it being on the other side of the disk ? I'm struggling to visualise the location of the bolt.

Thank you for the possible solution, I will mention it to my mechanic and hopefully it will be possible to do instead of getting a new hub and bearing.

JRJG

My local garage stripped the same bolt thread removing it from it's rusty 9 year-old thread, on the old Fabia VRS..

They actually called-in a helicoil fella who did his stuff, and I got charged £50.00 + vat for the honour.

 

Unless extremely lucky and you pick-up a used hub, then you are probably looking at £160.00 - £200.00 for a new one + recommended new bolts.

 

Not sure, don't quote me, but I think the front bearing sits in the hub, because I believe, that's the reason my front hub has to be removed.

As it takes a lot of load pressure to press out the old bearing and press the new bearing back in..

Edited 10 April, 201610 yr by giandougl

My local garage stripped the same bolt thread removing it from it's rusty 9 year-old thread, on the old Fabia VRS..

They actually called-in a helicoil fella who did his stuff, and I got charged £50.00 + vat for the honour.

 

Unless extremely lucky and you pick-up a used hub, then you are probably looking at £160.00 - £200.00 for a new one + recommended new bolts.

 

Not sure, don't quote me, but I think the front bearing sits in the hub, because I believe, that's the reason my front hub had to be removed.

As it takes a lot of load pressure to press out the old bearing and press the new bearing back in..

Hence why I would have to get a new bearing too then, if I went down the new hub route?

I will ask about helicoiling. Fingers crossed there will be someone able to do it nearby and this week

JRJG

And is it easy enough to get access to the nut despite it being on the other side of the disk ? I'm struggling to visualise the location of the bolt.

Thank you for the possible solution, I will mention it to my mechanic and hopefully it will be possible to do instead of getting a new hub and bearing.

JRJG

Yeah, did it on my Bocanegra to get me out of the crap, worked perfectly so left it like it, bit over eager with the air gun.

Hence why I would have to get a new bearing too then, if I went down the new hub route?

I will ask about helicoiling. Fingers crossed there will be someone able to do it nearby and this week

JRJG

Probably, I'm guessing here, there maybe a new bearing already fitted to hub, or, there may not be a new bearing fitted to new hub?

Edited 10 April, 201610 yr by giandougl

Probably, I'm guessing here, there maybe a new bearing already fitted to hub, or, there may not be a new bearing fitted to new hub?

I'm just thinking worst case scenario. I'd much rather try the nut and bolt idea that Techie posted, or your helicoil suggestion than fork out for a new hub.

Fingers crossed I will be able to sort it properly easily.

Thank you both for your suggestion and replies.

JRJG

FYI a new bearing carrier does not come with a bearing.

Yeah, did it on my Bocanegra to get me out of the crap, worked perfectly so left it like it, bit over eager with the air gun.

That's exactly what we managed, 'over eager'. But anyway. Hopefully I'll be able to fit a nut to the other side of it. Should I use the same size nut as previously?

JRJG

FYI a new bearing carrier does not come with a bearing.

Okay - thanks for the information. hopefully it won't come to that.

That's exactly what we managed, 'over eager'. But anyway. Hopefully I'll be able to fit a nut to the other side of it. Should I use the same size nut as previously?

JRJG

As previously?

As previously?

Sorry - the same size bolt as previously **

You'll need a longer bolt as it will have to go through the hub and out the other side. And of course a matching nut, I was lucky and had one suitable in my toolbox.

You'll need a longer bolt as it will have to go through the hub and out the other side. And of course a matching nut, I was lucky and had one suitable in my toolbox.

Rightio I shall make sure we get a couple of different lengths. I'll be best getting a locking nut too won't I.

Thanks for the tips, I will let you know how I go on.

JRJG

A helicoil repair insert is actually stronger than the original thread, I use 'em in alloy blocks even when there's nothing wrong with the original threads so that I can fit ultra high tensile bolts at torque settings which would otherwise strip the standard threads.

Buy yourself a helicoil kit from ebay then all you need is a battery drill and your sorted.

I paid a £30 for a kit that contain all you need to helicoil from m6 all the way up to m12. Its a handy bit of kit that will get you out of trouble and save you money. Win win.

Its even cheaper now http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-131-Piece-Helicoil-Type-Thread-Repair-Kit-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-Twist-Drill-Bits-/191722028399?nav=SEARCH

Edited 11 April, 201610 yr by theezenutz

Buy yourself a helicoil kit from ebay then all you need is a battery drill and your sorted.

I paid a £30 for a kit that contain all you need to helicoil from m6 all the way up to m12. Its a handy bit of kit that will get you out of trouble and save you money. Win win.

Its even cheaper now http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-131-Piece-Helicoil-Type-Thread-Repair-Kit-M5-M6-M8-M10-M12-Twist-Drill-Bits-/191722028399?nav=SEARCH

Just bought one of those,thanks for link

I ended up helicoiling the M9 caliper slider threads on my FSIII hubs.

Sounds as though a helicoil kit would be a wise purchase.

Fingers crossed Techie's original suggestion of the slightly longer bolt and a nut will keep things in place, if not, I will be going down the helicoil route. Reassuring to see several of you vouch for it's reliability, strength and safety. Definitely something I will look into further regardless of the original plans' outcome. Thank you everyone.

JRJG

The nut and bolt will work I did the same when I first did the 312 upgrade it held fine for nearly 2 years, but having recently had a wheel bearing done plus the mot, my tester replaced it with a helicoil. He didn't say it was dangerous or anything he just went ahead and did it, I didn't question him as I know he's a trustworthy guy.

The nut and bolt will get you out of trouble but if I was you I'd do it properly just for peace of mind.

Edit. If you nut and bolt it try to use a nyloc nut if not a spring washer and or thread lock

Edited 11 April, 201610 yr by theezenutz

The nut and bolt will work I did the same when I first did the 312 upgrade it held fine for nearly 2 years, but having recently had a wheel bearing done plus the mot, my tester replaced it with a helicoil. He didn't say it was dangerous or anything he just went ahead and did it, I didn't question him as I know he's a trustworthy guy.

The nut and bolt will get you out of trouble but if I was you I'd do it properly just for peace of mind.

Edit. If you nut and bolt it try to use a nyloc nut if not a spring washer and or thread lock

Got a longer bolt, it may be a tad too long so we may be cutting it down slightly, as well a new standard size, and a couple of washers and nyloc nuts. About to fit it, fingers crossed everything goes to plan, I can see it being a fiddle to get the nut in position for the first few turns, perhaps some wadding to hold the nut in place in a ring spanner, or that's what I was thinking :think:

I am hoping this solves the problem and holds the brake secure. I think we will use penetrative oil of some description for the rest of the work that we do. Fmic, egr delete, egr cooler delete, glow plugs, head bolts and then the bigger turbo swap... I just hope this isn't a bad omen for the work in the near future!

JRJG

Nah you'll be fine it is tight but it's doable, you'll want to cut the tread off flush with the end of the nut to avoid any clearance issues.

For some reason the threads in the hub seem to be made of cheese, for example when the mot guy helicoiled my hub about a month later I had to strip the brake off due to a issue I was having, anyway when I went to put it back together the thread that wasn't helicoiled stripped when I went to thread the bolt back in, I hardly used any force at all so I had to get back home to get my helicoil kit.

I now have 3 out of the 4 bolt holes helicoiled. Its seems to be a common occurrence.

Edited 16 April, 201610 yr by theezenutz

Nah you'll be fine it is tight but it's doable, you'll want to cut the tread off flush with the end of the nut to avoid any clearance issues.

For some reason the threads in the hub seem to be made of cheese, for example when the mot guy helicoiled my hub about a month later I had to strip the brake off due to a issue I was having, anyway when I went to put it back together the thread that wasn't helicoiled stripped when I went to thread the bolt back in, I hardly used any force at all so I had to get back home to get my helicoil kit.

I now have 3 out of the 4 bolt holes helicoiled. Its seems to be a common occurrence.

Yes well we were surprised at it threading as easy as it did too, but hey ho. The nut solution has solved the dilemma, just been for a test run, getting more and more confident as I went on. Brakes are working perfectly, goes from three figures down to 30 very quickly (kmph of course cough cough).

Didn't realise how warm the wheels got from excessive braking though, they were toasty warm just now when I came to fit the hub 'caps' back on. Will that reduce slightly with them being new pads or was it due to me being overzealous with the braking?

JRJG