VRs is in for MOT needed tyres and a battery. Garage opened window to push the car in to change the battery and the window wouldn't close. Tried the hold the key closed reset, windows don't close. Tried it holding in unlock position, nowt. Took out fuses, put back in nowt. Took off top plug on door check loom connectors, bit of corrosion but nothing major, still nowt. Currently trying to find a window motor but when I get back to it today, I need to be able to close the window somehow.

Provided it is the PCB that is knackered, and the motor is still good, how can I force the motor to close the window?

I have a spare battery and some wire so just need to know what to connect.

Also I noticed that on the blue plug a repair had been carried out to a wire using a spade connector which proceeded to snap clean off when I unplugged the blue plug from the door frame, would this blue plug affect the windows, I seem to recall it is more to do with central locking though rather than windows from what I read before.

Thanks

Lennie

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OK, so we are a bit further forwards.  Hooked up VCDS this morning, and the module was coded as 00018, which wasn't right, as that is for a 4 door with no electric windows.  So re-coded it to 66, which is 4 door with 2 power windows.  Logged out and back in and went to check the measurement blocks for the windows again, but it said controller not available/ready or something similar. Went back into the coding side and it said controller not found, and noticed in the coding helper that it is the same module which codes in the heated mirrors, etc.  Tried moving them but nothing.  So I am now assuming that the control module is buggered unless the broken blue/black wire on the blue plug in the above picture is for the mirrors and not the central locking.  So is there anyway of confirming that it is either the windows motor pcb and the broken wire causing this or a faulty control module?

 

Is there anything else in VCDS that will tell me?  Really getting stressed with this now as I cant get the window to close at all.  I'm going in tomorrow morning to take the door panel off, going to check the door carrier rivets and stuff when I am in there, but is the control module in there for the windows and mirrors or is it elsewhere?

 

Think the garage are going to charge me for storage shortly  :p

 

Lennie

Edited 19 April, 201610 yr by Jaspire

The control module is inside the drivers window motor unit.

 

Edited 19 April, 201610 yr by TMB

The control module is inside the drivers window motor unit.

That is what I thought until I noticed the mirrors weren't working.  So I think I will get a new loom and a new window motor with control module then.  Of course, when I say new, I mean with Genuine Ebay Parts. 

Well there is also the convenience module underneath the dash near the pedals which could be faulty.

 

Edited 19 April, 201610 yr by TMB

Well there is also the convenience module underneath the dash near the pedals which could be faulty.

 

 

Don't think it is the convenience module as I am sure that I could access that, sure that was what was coded to 00018 instead of 00066, so it was as if it had reset to default after the battery being knackered for so long, hence I recoded it.  Before the drivers door functions were coming up n/a, when I changed the coding to 00066,  the N/A changed to module not ready or something similar.  So I will need a loom anyway, as I don't like patching wires that tight, and for the sake of 20-30 quid, I will get a drivers windows motor c/w module.

 

Only thing is, at the moment, everything my car needs is like hens teeth.  Drivers Door Window Motor, Door Loom, Intercooler Pipe, Octy VRs brake setup front and back. Then fit Ibiza FR seats, RARB, then save up for a paint job, quite fancy that green metallic on both the Furbie and the Caddy!  Just got lowering kit, new headlights, and new F1 Eagles, then this happened.  Lucky white heather as they say.  

 

Don't think it is the convenience module as I am sure that I could access that, sure that was what was coded to 00018 instead of 00066, so it was as if it had reset to default after the battery being knackered for so long, hence I recoded it.  Before the drivers door functions were coming up n/a, when I changed the coding to 00066,  the N/A changed to module not ready or something similar.  So I will need a loom anyway, as I don't like patching wires that tight, and for the sake of 20-30 quid, I will get a drivers windows motor c/w module.

 

 

 

 

OK, be interested to see how you get on

 

Only thing is, at the moment, everything my car needs is like hens teeth.  Drivers Door Window Motor, Door Loom, Intercooler Pipe, Octy VRs brake setup front and back. Then fit Ibiza FR seats, RARB, then save up for a paint job, quite fancy that green metallic on both the Furbie and the Caddy!  Just got lowering kit, new headlights, and new F1 Eagles, then this happened.  Lucky white heather as they say.  

 

 

Edited 19 April, 201610 yr by TMB

Havnt read everything properly so sorry if this has been coverd.

Im sure the drivers side window motor controls all the windows and the mirrors, The window motors need to be changed if you wanted to fit auto folding mirrors etc so assume they do the heating as well.

Havnt read everything properly so sorry if this has been coverd.

Im sure the drivers side window motor controls all the windows and the mirrors, The window motors need to be changed if you wanted to fit auto folding mirrors etc so assume they do the heating as well.

Yeah I've sorted out a motor, loom and intercooler pipe. If you are still looking for a window motor I might be able to get you one this weekend hutchy?

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Yeah I've sorted out a motor, loom and intercooler pipe. If you are still looking for a window motor I might be able to get you one this weekend hutchy?

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Thank you but i bought a full VRS door today for £15 so going to strip and remove it from that

Thank you but i bought a full VRS door today for £15 so going to strip and remove it from that

You jammy git. Where do you guys find this stuff. I'm looking at £100 for a motor,loom and intercooler pipe,although I can get a complete boost pipework with intercooler for £75, although that will be next month. Rather overspent this month, left myself with £17 to last me till Friday [emoji2]

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Stripped the door panel off and split the module sprayed copious amounts of wd40 into every electrical part I could see as my big can of electrical cleaner has gone AWOL. Hurrah windows at least move when doing the reset but still don't work off the switch. At least they are shut. I have a feeling something is missing of the panel, like grommets or something.

I will stick a couple of pics up in a mo, if anyone sees anything obvious that would cause any issues, like allowing water in, then please let me know before I stick a new motor on and button it back up.

Cheers

Lennie

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Edited 23 April, 201610 yr by Jaspire

 

Photo of interior of door.  Had the carrier/regulator replaced the day before I bought it a few years ago, but something doesn't look right.

 

I should also point out that some of the rivets don't look right and some are loose.

 

Cheers

 

Lennie

Edited 23 April, 201610 yr by Jaspire

There are two big plastic grommets missing and several pop rivets.

 

Grommets at number 1....

 

 

Pop rivet locations (10 rivets)...

 

 

Plastic grommets are part number 357971908B (or some decent quality tape would probably be fine).

 

Door panel rivets are part number N91078801. I doubt that you could fit them with a normal rivet gun and would need a lazy tong riveter.

Edited 24 April, 201610 yr by TMB

There are two big plastic grommets missing and several pop rivets.

Grommets at number 1....

Pop rivet locations (10 rivets)...

Plastic grommets are part number 357971908B (or some decent quality tape would probably be fine).

Door panel rivets are part number N91078801. I doubt that you could fit them with a normal rivet gun and would need a lazy tong riveter.

I need a riveter to redo the back door carrier seals anyway. Time I did it properly scraping out the old foam seal anyway. Is the front one supposed to be sealed around it too, because the drivers one is all bent out of shape and has sizeable gaps between the door and the carrier? No doubt a sign that the guy I bought it off just wanted a working window to sell it, and not worried about long term use.

Thanks

Lennie

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Yes the fronts should be sealed as well. They will leak otherwise.

Yes the fronts should be sealed as well. They will leak otherwise.

That explains a lot. Taken to growing penicillin in it after 3 months off the road.

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That explains a lot. Taken to growing penicillin in it after 3 months off the road.

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Haha

Just bought a new drivers door. Comes with door carrier in good shape, and all the wiring. Guess what I'm doing this weekend.

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Can anyone recommend a decent place to get a lazy tong riveter?

 

Got one from Toolstation, drilled out the old rivets, coated the inside of the carrier with sealant, first rivet, struggled to break it, 2nd one bent the bloody riveter which collapsed and slashed my thumb through the fat, then wouldnt come off the rivet.  Had to dismantle the riveter to its component parts toget it off the fookin door, so want a decent one as this mangled wreck is going back to get a refund.

Machine mart, sealey.

OK Machine Mart didn't have a Sealey one but I got a Faithfull one off Amazon in the Prime sale, not a lazy tong one, but a long armed one. It's heavy going but it worked, and my drivers door has now had the old seal removed and resealed with plumbers gold and riveted back together.  

 

Only problem now is that the bloody door lock rod thing, which pops up and down when the door unlocks and locks has come off.  Is there anyway, other than pure luck, of getting this back on without taking the door carrier off? FKN Ragin'

 

Ta muchly.

 

Lennie

Incidentally, how are the speakers supposed to be attached to the carrier, mine appear to be screwed on from behind which seems a bit daft if you need to change the speaker?

 

Cheers

 

 

Lennie

The speakers are supposed to be pop riveted.

 

I can see from one of your earlier pics that someone has done away with the pop rivets and screwed your speakers to the door carrier with what looks like only two screws instead of the usual four rivets. Your car might have had a full new replacement door carrier as that requires the speaker to be swapped over to the new one.

 

Regarding the locking rod thing - you can't fit it with the door assembled. I left mine off in the end as they are a real pain. You can still see if the doors are open or locked by the rear button.

Edited 12 July, 20169 yr by TMB

The speakers are supposed to be pop riveted.

I can see from one of your earlier pics that someone has done away with the pop rivets and screwed your speakers to the door carrier with what looks like only two screws instead of the usual four rivets. Your car might have had a full new replacement door carrier as that requires the speaker to be swapped over to the new one.

Regarding the locking rod thing - you can't fit it with the door assembled. I left mine off in the end as they are a real pain. You can still see if the doors are open or locked by the rear button.

Cheers, I can actually see through a small hole on the door so if I can catch the hook/hole/whatever is supposed to hold the rod then I'll do that, otherwise it's getting left blanked, I'll just glue the rod top in the closed position and end of.

I'll see if I can get some small rivets for the speakers as I was intending on upgrading them at some point but that will be later.

Thanks again.

Lennie

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