Being new to vRS ownership (and it’s also my first turbo engined car), I have a question about how the boost should feel (if I can describe it successfully).

I can feel the turbo start to kick in at around 1800 revs, which I believe is about right.

Under heavy acceleration it feels like it’s boosting well up to maybe 3-4 thousand revs, around which point the boost will drop, then kick in again, then drop, then kick in again ... etc ...

I have no idea if this is normal, although I suspect not.

The car’s a totally standard vRS with a stage 1 remap.

Opinions sought on whether this is a symptom of a problem with the remap, a leak in the system, a worn/faulty DV, or something else?

I have a new VAG DV ready to fit when I have the time and the courage to do it – it’ll be my first ever venture into engine mechanic-ing beyond changing the air filter and cleaning the MAF

DV & N75 valve would be my prime suspects.

Could also be the throttle body needs cleaning, and also the air flow meter. Try unplugging the air flow meter and run up the road again - if it improves, then problem solved. I have a similar issue with mine, cleaned the throttle body yesterday and it has improved, with only a slight pause around 2500 rpm now, before it was kangarooing under hard acceleration.

I am having the same trouble I have replaced the n75 valve n dv tried the maf sensor, I am not sure if the car has been remaped it is boosting to 15psi could it be a bad map that is causing the trouble

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Thanks.

I'll do as suggested and see what happens - clean MAF & throttle body (need a new gasket first), and fit the new DV.

N75 as the next resort ...

try unplugging the n75 valve and see if the problem is still there  i did that on mine when  i had the same problem  and the car felt alot slower but the boost drop and boost kick in dissapeared and i bought a new n75 valve and after that no probs

 

mine was original then though so it could be something with the map but try to unplug the n75 and see if there is any diference

Would unplugging the N75 cause engine management error codes?

No it just runs the car off actuator pressure only which should hold a steady line at around 5psi. So yes as said will be well down on power but should be smooth at least.

Can you tell us who did the remap? Unplugging the N75 may not bring up the light but will flag up a code if you read them with VCDS. It'll just run on actuator pressure and should be (relatively) gutless but nice and smooth.

Damn you YellowCar, I am too slow! We said the same thing though.

Damn you YellowCar, I am too slow! We said the same thing though.

You need a quicker trigger finger dude

Something called "work" got in the way of my train of car thoughts.

It has a habit of doing that, sucks doesn't it

Remap was done by Hyperchips