I need a bit of help on this one.  I wasn’t sure if this should be in the Octavia 2 section or the Wheels section of the forum so feel free to move it mods.

I recently had the wheels aligned at a local garage.  They aren’t my first choice of garage but as the car was with them for some tyres fitting through Black Circles I thought it was worth a try.

To be honest, the car feels fine, drives great and as far as I could tell they’d done a good job.  The thing is, I fitted some spacers last night to combat the ‘tucked into the arch’ syndrome that most cars seem to have.  I did the NSR first and liked the look straight away.  Then I did the OSR and immediately thought it looked different.  I did the fronts which look fine but the rears were niggling me.

I used a straight edge to carry out a basic check and the OSR sits about 5mm further in to the arch than the OSR.  I took it round to the garage this morning and explained my concerns and to their credit they redid the alignment and said that everything is ‘within the expected tolerances’.  I beg to differ but thought I’d see what you thought on the forum before I do anything else.

I’ve attached a few photos to show what I mean.  There’s a before and after of the NSR & NSF to show the difference in stance.   It looks great compared to the standard offset so in that respect I’m happy.  The other photos show the difference in how much the wheel sits within the arch.  The stick is straight despite it looking curved in the photos.  I’ve used various edges and the result is the same, the OSR is about 5-6mm further into the arch than the NSR. 

I’ve also attached the printouts from the garage.  The left hand copy is the original from the end of March and the right is from this morning.  I’d really appreciate your opinions/advice on this as maybe they are right and it’s fine.  Maybe my OCD is kicking in and I’m not coping with imperfections.  Whatever, let me know what you think.

Cheers,

Andrew,

Before,

 

After,

​

 

NSR with gap

 

OSR without gap,

 

Printouts from garage,

 

Edited 8 May, 201610 yr by skinnyman

Has it had a new or repaired quarter panel?

to be fair a bamboo stick from the garden can hardly be defined as a 'straight edge'

I know.  As mentioned I used my sprit level, some two by four, an old broom handle and a cane.  I took photos using the last implement which admittedly doesn't look very scientific but it does give the same result.  Honest.

 

As for the panel repairs, if it has had something done in the last nine years it's been done to a very hight standard. 

 

edit : I could take a photo with something else if it would help convince you..

Edited 7 May, 201610 yr by skinnyman

What spacers? Any links?

Seeing as Lee hit a nerve with me yesterday, I had to redo the photos in a slightly more straight edged way.

 

The photos from this morning are a bit better.  They feature a striaght edge and those of us who can't cope with a bendy cane being used can breathe again.

 

OSR,

​

 

NSR

​

 

Rear shot to show the stance

​

 

Two shots to compare

​

 

I'm not concerned to be honest but thought I'd see if anyone else had been so geeky as to measure their wheel arch gaps.

 

To answer your question Fatbloke,  the rears are 15mm, the fronts are 10mm and they are H&R spacers.  I bought them this week off another forum member.

 

Cheers,

 

Andrew.

Edited 8 May, 201610 yr by skinnyman

The alignment itself isn't how I'd set the car up but they are right, it's within tolerances (just).  

 

The only way you'll sort out the difference from side to side is undo the subframe to body bolts and try and shift the subframe sideways a few mm.  There are 4 subframe bolts plus the trailing arm mounts.  If it's anything like other VW parts, there should be a little bit to play with.

The wheel alignment would not have altered this, the car would have had that difference as it left the factory. There have been posts on here before, quiet a few years ago where another member spotted the same thing.

 

IIRC the subframe bolts are stretch bolts, so if loosened they should be replaced and not reused.

OCD this much but then holds a spirit level and block of wood against paint. :(

Spirit level is from b&q, probably not straight :-)

I assume that if your expecting your car body to be level with the wheel alignment then the drive that it's sat is also perfectly level and the car is empty of any load. If not then take it somewhere that is before doing your measurements.

I assume that if your expecting your car body to be level with the wheel alignment then the drive that it's sat is also perfectly level and the car is empty of any load. If not then take it somewhere that is before doing your measurements.

Exactly, and release any tension, so car is free to roll etc. Check rear beam bushes for any play too

The wheel alignment would not have altered this, the car would have had that difference as it left the factory. There have been posts on here before, quiet a few years ago where another member spotted the same thing

 

That's good to know as it means I shouldn't be too worried and someone else out there is just as geeky!

 

OCD this much but then holds a spirit level and block of wood against paint. :(

 

You'll be pleased to know I put a small amount of masking tape on the sprit level before it touched the car.

 

I assume that if your expecting your car body to be level with the wheel alignment then the drive that it's sat is also perfectly level and the car is empty of any load. If not then take it somewhere that is before doing your measurements.

 

I like your thinking.  I've tried it on three different surfaces just to check.

Edited 9 May, 201610 yr by skinnyman

Does the car go and stop in a straight line without pulling to either side? If so, stop worrying.

B&Q had, IIRC, issues with the bubbles in their own brand spirit levels being out.

B&Q had, IIRC, issues with the bubbles in their own brand spirit levels being out.

 

Fairly sure you can get replacement bubbles though.

Fairly sure you can get replacement bubbles though.

got a part number? I'll use a generic one if needs be but would rather OE bubbles.

Sounds really silly but why are you measuring off the tyre wall?

I would go from the wheel rim, as stupid as it sounds looking at your images one tyre has a proper overhang off the rim compared to the other from my where I'm looking in post #6 probably the angle.

Edited 9 May, 201610 yr by Defenderben

got a part number? I'll use a generic one if needs be but would rather OE bubbles.

 

Indeed I do. BU66735 should get you a pack of 2 at Screwfix.

Indeed I do. BU66735 should get you a pack of 2 at Screwfix.

ta dude. I hope they come bubble wrapped.

B&Q had, IIRC, issues with the bubbles in their own brand spirit levels being out.

 

This particular spirit level has had the BU66735 recall back in January so all is well.  They even sorted me with a courtesy level whilst the work was being carried out.

 

And yes, the car drives great so I'll get on with enjoying it.

That's a very clean vRS, now get some of this on those chrome tail pipes!

 

It was on my shopping list 'till I had a good look at the pipes.  They have been neglected for the last nine years and the chrome is in a real state.  I'm planning on getting a zorst at some point so despite wincing each time I look at the rear of the car, I'm willing to live with it for now.

I remember posting before about an issue whereby the gap between the bottom of the tailgate (when closed) and the top of the bumper was not even - so it looked as though the bumper was squint. My brother's 2010 vRS was like that. The strange thing was that all the individual panel 'joins' were fine. Everything butted together nice and evenly yet the bumper looked squint. Car drove great so he never bothered about it!

I'll just get on and enjoy the car I reckon.  Cambelt & water pump, exhaust and then a remap are on the list so far.