Anyone got a step by step guide to changing the oil in my 2006 1.2 Fabia? Is there any certain steps I should take before doing it? Thanks in advance

I'm sure someone will write a little guide soon.

My advice is please start screwing the sump plug back in by hand before using any tools.

A trick on olilfilter: When tapping oil, turn the -filter a little out, to or tee rounds, and wait for tee or four minutes. That will drain the filter so you don't have to fill the dynamo/alternator with oil when you take out the filter for change. Is also smart to protect the dynamo anyway, because there is allay some oil that will go/drip down to it.

 

The oil shall be a little worm when tapping it. 

It is also a good idea to change the ring on the plug often. 

If you don't have a new, you can farm it pup with a lighter, so it will get soft, and get not risk of leak

 

Dont overfill! These engines is not to gambling with..

Edited 8 May, 201610 yr by Torbo

Get the car on some ramps, open the bonnet, take the oil filter cap off, wrap some old rags around the filter housing to hopefully catch most of the oil that will no doubt escape when taking your old oil filter out. Re
move the old filter, replace with the new one, make sure to replace the O ring too, your new filter should come with one.
Take your undertray off (If you have one), select the correct size ring spanner for the sump plug, get your basin/large tub ready, ease the plug out the last couple of turns with your fingers so you can position the basin/tub with your other hand.
Drop the oil, go and make a brew whilst the oil drains out, replace the sump plug, ideally with a new one but not essentially, however I definitely would recommend you replace AT LEAST the copper washer on the sump plug, these washers are a 'crush' washer if you will, so can only be used once, tighten the plug up (using your fingers to begin with, as Hutchy suggests, to make sure you don't cross thread the plug), but not too tight, it is very easy to thread the sump itself as it is a soft alloy, so be careful you don't overtighten, you have to tighten the plug enough to crush the washer and make a seal, but not too much!
Clean up any spilt oil, and wipe clean the sump itself, this will make it easier to spot any leaks when/if they occur. Replace your undertray, then head back up top, roll your car back off the ramps so that it is level, start to put your new oil in, as Torbo said, don't put too much in, so a little at a time until the level is correct on the dipstick, keep checking and keep pouring a 'glug' in at a time until you are satisfied with the level.
Don't forget that it can take some time for the oil to make it's way down through the engine to the sump, so don't be pouring all of it in straight away because the dipstick initially has no sign of new oil.
Take your time. Wear gloves if you're not a fan of the 'mechanic' look. Take it easy and if at any point you don't feel competent to continue, get help, there's no point damaging your car when it's avoidable.

I'm sure I will have missed something out, but that's the jist of it. Best of luck!

JRJG

Sump plug may well be a 6mm Allen key fitting; it is on ours. I'd recommend a hex bit with an adaptor to a 3/8 square drive, rather than an actual L-shaped Allen key.

30Nm is the torque for the sump plug, no more.

On ours the filter housing needs a 36mm socket to undo.

Get the car on some ramps, open the bonnet, take the oil filter cap off, wrap some old rags around the filter housing to hopefully catch most of the oil that will no doubt escape when taking your old oil filter out. Re

move the old filter, replace with the new one, make sure to replace the O ring too, your new filter should come with one.

Take your undertray off (If you have one), select the correct size ring spanner for the sump plug, get your basin/large tub ready, ease the plug out the last couple of turns with your fingers so you can position the basin/tub with your other hand.

Drop the oil, go and make a brew whilst the oil drains out, replace the sump plug, ideally with a new one but not essentially, however I definitely would recommend you replace AT LEAST the copper washer on the sump plug, these washers are a 'crush' washer if you will, so can only be used once, tighten the plug up (using your fingers to begin with, as Hutchy suggests, to make sure you don't cross thread the plug), but not too tight, it is very easy to thread the sump itself as it is a soft alloy, so be careful you don't overtighten, you have to tighten the plug enough to crush the washer and make a seal, but not too much!

Clean up any spilt oil, and wipe clean the sump itself, this will make it easier to spot any leaks when/if they occur. Replace your undertray, then head back up top, roll your car back off the ramps so that it is level, start to put your new oil in, as Torbo said, don't put too much in, so a little at a time until the level is correct on the dipstick, keep checking and keep pouring a 'glug' in at a time until you are satisfied with the level.

Don't forget that it can take some time for the oil to make it's way down through the engine to the sump, so don't be pouring all of it in straight away because the dipstick initially has no sign of new oil.

Take your time. Wear gloves if you're not a fan of the 'mechanic' look. Take it easy and if at any point you don't feel competent to continue, get help, there's no point damaging your car when it's avoidable.

I'm sure I will have missed something out, but that's the jist of it. Best of luck!

JRJG

 

With the oil filter sitting on top of the block, I remember some advice from tech1e to drain oil from sump BEFORE playing with the filter. That way any oil in filter drains out , and don't mess up engine. I'd tend to let car roll off ramps and fill/top up oil on level. Then start car and check for oil leaks, and finally put car back on ramps to look for any oil leaks.

Also, if the oil filter comes out attached to the oil filter cover, tap the cap bottom extension lightly on a piece of wood to release the filter.

Also, when you think the oil level is right, run the engine for a minute to fill the galleries. Switch off, wait 2 minutes, then check again.

Also, I've read elsewhere on the excellent forum from a garage mechanic, never to rev the engine immediately on start up in case there is no oil in the timing chain tensioner, causing the chain to jump a cog (the mechanic claimed he removed the plugs and turned the engine over by hand as a precaution, but that sound excessive to me).