Iv tried to post a you a pic but cant seem to do it from my phone.

No problem mate.

I think after watching a YouTube video I know what I'm looking at now.

It wasn't you're explanation, just me being dim. Will give this a go tomorrow and hope it's just a fuse.

Red lead from battery i think goes to the plate on fuse box. Make sure thats clean at battery end if you have no power to the metal strip. All the top conectors should have 12 v and below the fuses should be 12 v unless blown the 0v

The top connectors being the bolts? (Sorry, lol)

Yes pal

I used a multi meter with a continuity beep feature all fuses beeped. So Seems if I have tested the fuses correctly they're all working.

What's the next thing I should try? Before spending a fortune on a mobile mechanic?

Attached is multimeter setting used.

Edited 19 May, 201610 yr by mikeSUFC

Check your messages

I used a multi meter with a continuity beep feature all fuses beeped. So Seems if I have tested the fuses correctly they're all working.

What's the next thing I should try? Before spending a fortune on a mobile mechanic?

Attached is multimeter setting used.

Set it to the 20. Around the 3 oclock area

That is not really the way to test the fuse when there is the possibility of a voltage being present. A continuity tester can respond to the voltage present and give a false beep. That said, if the fuses are intact it will give the correct response.

Switch your meter to the 20V range and then 1) measure from ground to each end of the fuse and then 2) measure the voltage across each fuse in turn.

With a good fuse test 2) will show zero volts. Test 1) should show the same voltage at each end of the fuse. A blown fuse should show battery voltage at the feed end and zero at the other end BUT sneak paths from the load can still show battery voltage as the resistance presented by the meter is very high. That's why you need to do both tests.

Chances are that your fuses are ok but putting the voltmeter across the fuse will confirm it.

Incidentally, using your multimeter on ohms or continuity beep when a voltage is present can at best blow its fuse or at worst, damage your meter.

We assume the car worked reliably before it was laid up a while??? Seems strange issue to be completely dead..

 

Is the new (brand new???) battery definitely charged?

 

Do you have mice, with very sharp teeth where you live??? Seriously though, any droppings in or around the car?

ok so I've tested across all fuses and they're all 0.

I'll try the other test shortly hopefully getting somewhere.

We assume the car worked reliably before it was laid up a while??? Seems strange issue to be completely dead..

 

Is the new (brand new???) battery definitely charged?

 

Do you have mice, with very sharp teeth where you live??? Seriously though, any droppings in or around the car?

Yep all worked before hand.

I assumed it would be, I'll give the place I got it from a call and check. Is it worth trying to jump?

Noi can't see any droppings anywhere.

Ok so retested and only two fuses seem to be getting power and only 2.34 volts at that.

That's using Tony's test of putting black test cable on negative terminal of battery and touching each fuse with the red.

Does this more than likely just mean low battery voltage?

Should a jump start get it running?

Edited 19 May, 201610 yr by mikeSUFC

Try putting the meter directly across the battery terminals and measuring the voltage of the battery. This should read around 12.4 v with the engine off.

Ok so retested and only two fuses seem to be getting power and only 2.34 volts at that.

That's using Tony's test of putting black test cable on negative terminal of battery and touching each fuse with the red.

Does this more than likely just mean low battery voltage?

Should a jump start get it running?

 

If you have a "new" battery you don't need to jump start it

 

Measure the voltage across the battery terminals

Edited 19 May, 201610 yr by bigjohn

2.34v at the battery.

So safe to assume it's the battery?

Will a jump start get it going? It seems too low.

Might just take it back and and take multi meter ask to try each one.

2.34v at the battery.

So safe to assume it's the battery?

Will a jump start get it going? It seems too low.

Might just take it back and and take multi meter ask to try each one.

 

Er - was this a "new" or "used " battery

Brand new from euro car parts. Bought two days ago mate.

Its strange for a new battery to be so flat.

If battery brand new and you tried straight away after fitting then it sounds like a duff battery. If you left a few days after fitting before trying to start then it's worth jump starting

Edited 19 May, 201610 yr by bigjohn

2.34v at the battery.

Unless your meter has been damaged. Check your meter on a few dry cells or another car battery. If it gives the correct voltage reading then it's ok and therefore your battery is kaput. Replace the battery. With the present battery don't try to force it up to full volts by putting a good battery across as in a jump start. It could overheat. Not trying to be Mr Gloom and Doom, just many years of working in the electrical and battery industries and seeing the results.

I would say no to jump start too.

 

Get one of them charged up safely or get ECP to send you a good un.

 

As stated earlier, a very flat battery takes ages to charge and possibly wouldn't take a jump either especially if cheapo jump cables are used.

 

Good luck with it.

Cheers guys. All this for a battery all seems a bit silly!

Checked the multimeter against a the working puke (intentional typo, never ever buy a juke) and it reads 12.5 so looks like a dud battery is the culprit.

Lesson learnt, don't overlook the simple things I guess.

I'd still keep your fingers crossed as you had nothing from the battery at all.

 

Unusual, but good luck anyway.