Outer NS CV joint gaiter replacement

[clamberer]

Hi All,

 

I need to replace a split outboard CV joint gaiter on my 1.8TSI 2008 Octavia.  It was flagged up at my local Skoda garage while other work was being done, but I couldn't really stomach spending another £100+ on top of my existing bill, so I asked them for just the parts, with a view to doing it myself.

 

Now I've since looked at my Haynes manual (only diesel available so no exact match), which raised a few questions:

 

The manual suggests replacing the hub bolt and the nuts securing the ball joint to the lower arm with new ones - these parts were not supplied along with the gaiter (I HAD asked for all parts required for the job). do they actually need replacing?

 

It also mentions discarding the old gasket from the inner CV joint and replacing with a new one.  Again this wasn't supplied, how necessary would you consider a new one to be (or is that subject to how intact the old one is)

 

Lastly, the inner joint seems not to be the flanged type (see image http://imgur.com/MmynTvz ) Does this mean that the gearbox will leak oil on removal of the splined end, which will therefore need replacing? Again, I don't have the oil or the drain/fill plugs for that.

 

Sorry if this seems like amateur hour but I had hoped that all required parts for the job had been supplied. This seems like it isn't the case, so I'd like to get that straightened out before beginning rather than finding I'm missing something half way through!

 

Cheers!

[Tech1e]

Yes you will need a new driveshaft bolt. It's a fair torque on it. The ball joint nuts can be reused. The inboard joint is flanged, no gearbox oil will be lost.

If you have the earlier type six sided driveshaft bolt with the thick washer on it you can make a CV joint removal tool out of it by cutting the washer off. Run the bolt all the way in and it will lever the joint off.

Also the correct tool for fastening the boot clip is essential.

Edited 7 August, 2016 by Tech1e

[clamberer]

I couldn't spot any flange bolts, what am I looking at in the photo in my first post?

either way, does the gasket need renewing?

 

I take it pincers won't do the job for the clip ring or they risk breaking it then?

 

Thanks for your help!

Edited 7 August, 2016 by clamberer

[Tech1e]

That's a steering rack in your picture.

[clamberer]

Well now I feel bloody stupid. that'll teach me to jack it up for a better view and pay more attention 

just had another look using my phone to peer along the shaft and you're dead on.

 

I'll order the hub bolt and the gasket! 

Thanks!

[Tech1e]

You may not have a gasket. Some driveshafts will have a metal cap over the inner joint.

[wiilydog]

This is the clip tool you will need for the boot clip as the vag boots are plastic and need to be super tight to prevent them coming off.

[CWARD]

Instead of the over the top tool above maybe one of these which will pull the clip in tight enough to break the hooks of the band if you over do it. Lord knows what the tool above costs.

Edited 8 August, 2016 by CWARD

[Tech1e]

/\ that's what I have. They are like pincers but also flatten off the 'ear'.

[clamberer]

I bought a set of these: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-cv-boot-clamp-pliers/ Hopefully they'll be up to the job.

 

One other question, I bought a new hub bolt from my Skoda garage, the new one is the 12 pointed flange bolt, whereas the old one is the 6 sided bolt with a heavy 10mm or so thick washer.

The Haynes manual gives very different torques for the two bolt types: 200Nm then 180deg for the six sided, and 70Nm then 90deg for the 12 pointed.

 

Is the 12 pointed one correct to replace the 6 sided, and at such a significantly lower torque?  Also the old one appears oily on the threads while the new one has some thick anti sieze paste on it.. do I need to degrease the female thread before refitting with the new one?

 

Cheers

[wiilydog]

Yes the 12 pointed bolts are fine as its a newer design and that what the Skoda parts give me with new boot kit. The torque is lower as the new bolt has a ribbed surface on the bolt head.

[clamberer]

Ah after a little more research it seems that there were two variants of the 12 pointed bolt: one with the ribbed face and one (I think newer) without ribbing.  

 

The one with the ribbing is 70Nm then 90 degrees as you say, however apparently the 12 pointed one without ribbing is 200Nm then 180 degrees, same as the hex.

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk5/running_gear_axles_steering/front_suspension_drive_shafts/removing_and_installing_drive_shafts/removing_and_installing_right_drive_shaft_with_(push-on)_constant_velocity_slip_joint/

 

It seems that blindly following the 12 points = 70 Nm has the potential to leave you with a dramatically under torqued bolt if it is the flat faced one rather than the ribbed.

[Breezy_Pete]

Good find.

The official info (via erWin) suggests that the final 90-degrees (ribbed bolt) or 180-degrees (smooth one) of tightening is done after the wheel(s) are re-fitted, with the car put down onto its wheels and with an assistant pressing on the brake pedal.  I guess simply because the forces involved would be hard to counter-hold against otherwise.

Edited 14 August, 2016 by Wino