Hi

 

I've had persistent problems with a Fabia (52plate) immobiliser. Usually fails to start in hot weather (flashing immob light on dash). I've got a replacement key and had the reader coil replaced last year, but it is still causing the problem again this year.  The coil was replaced in Oct last year, so the cooler weather probably masked the problem and looked like it had been fixed.

 

I'm now going to try the wire replacement 'trick' i.e. replace the wire from the ignition barrel to the cluster.  I've sourced a replacement part (designed for an Octavia, but will apparently work for a Fabia - part no. 1U0971809 - green and black cable). As a complete novice, I'm just looking for some help on how to do this.

 

1. At the cluster end, am I right in thinking that the wire goes into the top two connectors on the main green connector? Points 1 & 17?

2. How do I know which wire goes into which connector (1 or 17)?  The cable I have has a black plastic connector for the ignition coil and 'bare' wires for the other end. But which of those two wires goes into which connector?

3. Any tips on removing the wire from the green connector at the cluster end? I understand this can be fiddly/difficult?

4. Do I have to disconnect the battery while I'm doing this, if so all terminals or just one?

 

After this it's a case of trying to get the cluster re-worked, but I'm reluctant to do that given the likely cost.

 

Oh BTW, the VCDS fault code in the Instrument Cluster (17) is: 01128 Immobilizer Pickup Coil  - intermittent (which from memory was the same fault last year when the coil was replaced)

 

Thanks

 

David

 

 

1. Yes

2. Don't think it makes any difference.

3. Haven't tried but could do so this evening.

4. Removing battery negative (only) is always the 'be on the safe side' option when dealing with the electrics.

 

I think it's quite likely that the problem is the pins of the connector-to-cluster PCB solder joints, but until you eliminate the possibility that it's the bit you're replacing, difficult to be sure.

 

Re-working those solder joints isn't difficult DIY.

As Wino says, reworking the PCB only requires a soldering iron, remove the dash cluster and disassemble so you can get easy access to the solder pads for the green connector then simply remelt the pads for pins 1 and 17, this should fix the problem permanently.

Yes, I was wondering whether removing the dash panel and trying the soldering method would be easier, as the heat related element seems to suggest faulty soldering.   I read somewhere on here that it's possible to solder them by simply taking the plastic shroud off the cluster and not having to dismantle the whole thing as the two solder joints were easily accessible. Is that correct?

 

Reading further about the wire 'fix', it concerns me that the steering wheel would need to be removed to do this. Anyone know if that's correct?

 

Thanks

 

David

You don't even need to remove the needles from the dials. There's enough access without, I took a photo that showed this recently, but can't link you to the thread easily from my phone. Will do in a bit when I'm back at a desk.

That's excellent - thank you. I think I've seen that picture on here, but for the life of me can't find it again.

 

David

#59 here.

I would have thought it would be well worth your while examining these solder joints before you do anything else.  You may be able to see that there are cracks around the pins, and the re-wiring may prove unnecessary if so.

That's excellent. Many thanks.  

 

Think it's a job for the weekend.  I have a few old circuit boards hanging around, so I'll practise my soldering skills before I get going.  

 

Rgds

 

David