Stupid question, but finally getting around to sorting out leaking doors...

Reading through the various guides to sealing the leaks, it says to check the drainage holes. Can anyone tell me where the drainage holes are please!

Oddly enough at the bottom of the door. :p

Edited 19 August, 20169 yr by Tech1e

Well yes I guessed at the bottom of the door, but right at the bottom of the door? Below the door card? I have no idea that's why I'm asking!!!

Right at the bottom of the door, on the join of the door skin so not near the door card.

just look at bottom  of the door you will find them 

Edited 19 August, 20169 yr by dm222

Barely worth looking, it's never blocked drain holes.

Barely worth looking, it's never blocked drain holes.

Oddly enough mine was. The right rear window had been smashed at some point and the bottom of the door was full of glass. The drain holes were blocked which didn't help a poor carrier seal and it was ****ing in.

I reckon it would've leaked even if they were clear though.

As you know, the real issue is the black plastic bracket in the rear corner which directs rain drips onto the carrier, giving the original foam-rubber seal little chance long-term, as it wasn't specced with this stream in mind. Arrows show the watermarks which every carrier which still has that bracket will have.

 

I've not doubt it would have leaked too, but restricting the drainage isn't going to help.

On 20.8.2016 at 09:28, Wino said:

I reckon it would've leaked even if they were clear though.

As you know, the real issue is the black plastic bracket in the rear corner which directs rain drips onto the carrier, giving the original foam-rubber seal little chance long-term, as it wasn't specced with this stream in mind. Arrows show the watermarks which every carrier which still has that bracket will have.

 

Hey, sorry for hijacking this thread but I wanted to say thanks for the helpful picture.

 

I'm about to seal my carrier aswell, while I'm at it, do you recommend to remove or do something about that plastic bracket? Or is it needed?

 

Cheers,

kore

Your carrier will be riveted on, rather than bolted. This makes complete removal/refitting more difficult. The rivets are not a 'DIY shop' standard size, and their 'pulling pins' are larger than many rivet guns can handle.

 

If you do take off the carrier plate, it would be better to remove that bracket. Its only function - as far as I can see - is to allow the robot in the factory to fit the door lock in the same operation as fitting the carrier. 

 

However, if you don't remove the carrier, you can still succeed in sealing it if you clean the surfaces well, and make sure that the sealant goes far enough up that rear edge.

11 hours ago, Wino said:

If you do take off the carrier plate, it would be better to remove that bracket. Its only function - as far as I can see - is to allow the robot in the factory to fit the door lock in the same operation as fitting the carrier.

 

 

 

That's my take on it too. The carrier could also have been fitted manually but the same reason for the plastic bracket would apply.

Edited 18 February, 20179 yr by TMB

16 minutes ago, TMB said:

 

That's my take on it too. The carrier could also have been fitted manually but the same reason for the plastic bracket would apply.

 

11 hours ago, Wino said:

Your carrier will be riveted on, rather than bolted. This makes complete removal/refitting more difficult. The rivets are not a 'DIY shop' standard size, and their 'pulling pins' are larger than many rivet guns can handle.

 

If you do take off the carrier plate, it would be better to remove that bracket. Its only function - as far as I can see - is to allow the robot in the factory to fit the door lock in the same operation as fitting the carrier. 

 

However, if you don't remove the carrier, you can still succeed in sealing it if you clean the surfaces well, and make sure that the sealant goes far enough up that rear edge.

 

Thanks for the explanation! How far up exactly should I apply the sealant? What read edge do you mean? (Sorry for the inconvenience, I'm not a native speaker)

No problem.  I can't find that picture I used before, so I've edited another one to show where I would suggest sealing to. Rear edge = edge of carrier nearest to back of car.

 

 

Edited 18 February, 20179 yr by Wino

Great, thanks for the quick reply! That picture made things clear, I'll get to work on my carriers as soon as the weather gets better.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Follow up question on this issue.

Is it important for the holes where the retainer trim clips go to be watertight, too?

 

For example if one rubber seal of those broke while removing the door panel, will it still seep through?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

I don't run the plastic trim clips on my front doors, I have the holes taped up. Makes no apparent difference, no rattles from the door cards and makes it far easier to remove the cards when needed. I only use the screws at the bottom of the doors. However, if you are using them I'd advise having the rubber washers in place.

Edited 11 December, 20178 yr by TMB