Octy vRS mk1 boot lid mod

[slimboyross]

Hi. What action would need to be taken/what parts would need to be sourced in order to alter the look of the mk1 to resemble the rear as seen in the attached pics? Lights and spoilers aside, I just mean the bootlid mod and rear bumper indent.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxo6y3bvyaayace/VRSboot1.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxo6y3bvyaayace/VRSboot2.jpg?dl=0

Appreciate it won't be to everyone's tastes but am only curiously considering going for this look.

- Is the smoothed tailgate from another vehicle or more likely to be an entirely custom metalwork job?

- Is the rear bumper with indent for plate from another vehicle, or again some sort of custom?

I suspect the boot may need welded shut (which would be huge sway against going with such an idea altogether) but damn does it look sexy! Especially on that black!! Perhaps some sort of boot release mechanism (like an in car bonnet release?) could be created to still ensure functioning access??

I can't find any info online regarding the particular cars in the pics – literally found them through a google image search and a youtube slideshow video showcasing various crazy mods.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Ross

Edited 17 October, 2016 by slimboyross

[kentphil1]

Probably has a keyless remote locking system fitted to lose the key barrels. I would think this has been created custom, by welding in sheet metal to smooth the gate then grinding it to a smooth finish ready for paint prep.

 

The bumper has probably been created as a hybrid by plastic welding in a recessed item from a donor car, then reworking it to look the way it does now.

 

In nutshell, not going to be cheap unless you have the appropriate skills yourself already.

[Paul thornton]

Looks terrible to me.

Each to their own I suppose but for the effort / cost I wouldn't bother.

Tailgate will end up wieghing a ton and the filler will probably start to crack after its been closed a few times.

[kentphil1]

If done properly, the aperture metal cut away will probably be close in weight to the new metal welded on and metal finished to shape, meaning no more than a surface skim of filler should be necessary to fine finish the shape.

 

But these are serious old school panel beating and fabrication skills not found any more in your average bodyshop, so would mean a custom shop and custom bills as well. :S

 

Have to agree with Paul Thornton on the look though, not my taste either, but respect your originality for wanting something different. Just don't lose your keys after it's done.

[Leeboy]

Agreed with the above, if you're going this route, then get it done properly with steel welded in. I recall seeing a car one time with the number plate relocated and the recess on the boot lid clearly filled with several tubs of filler because there was a great big crack all the way round where the recess should have been.

But done right I think it could look good in the right colour although not with a giant bolt on wing and white tail lights mind! Be good to follow your build of this is the route you go for.

[octyal]

That kind of resembles the back end of a late Rover 45/MG ZS after the facelift in '03, or a Vectra touring car from the late 90's. Boot lid as said would require a plate welding in to fill the hole (good position for a rear view camera to be mounted then as well), and the bumper some plastic welding skills. If you had a donor bumper with the required recess/number plate light holders, then a good plastic bumper repair place, or bodyshop should be able to graft them together.

[KenONeill]

As others above, with the added note that if you can't get the tailgate smoothed out by welding alone, it would be better to lead load the seam than to use plastic fillers (it's a similar technique to soldering).

[kentphil1]

As others above, with the added note that if you can't get the tailgate smoothed out by welding alone, it would be better to lead load the seam than to use plastic fillers (it's a similar technique to soldering).

Agreed, I don't know what the average skills are like in your neck of the woods, but down here, the chance of finding a good panel beater who can lead fill, and then metal finish a panel, are so rare, it's easier to pick wining lottery numbers.

[KenONeill]

Agreed, I don't know what the average skills are like in your neck of the woods, but down here, the chance of finding a good panel beater who can lead fill, and then metal finish a panel, are so rare, it's easier to pick wining lottery numbers.

I'm thinking that the best shot for finding someone who can lead load properly is to go to a body shop specialising in classic car restoration.

[slimboyross]

Thanks for all your help and advice, gents! Have sourced a fella who runs a bodyshop about an hour away and who seems to possess the skills and experience you've outlined. Shall be paying him a visit very soon and will update here for progress (if any) with this mod.

Now... ideas what kind of place could sort me with a remote release mechanism? Such a notion slipped my mind, Phil - good call!

I agree that the white lights and bolted wing spoiler aren't to my liking either, Leeboy... Thinking I might go with black tinted rear lights and possible rally spoiler. We'll see.

Also, I'm guessing eBah might be the best place for donor bumper parts? Unless anyone has any better source?? The standard mk1 Octavia (non vRS) has the exact same rear bumper, is that right? Maybe could chance a breakers yard here for one in good nick.

[KenONeill]

The "normal" Octavia rear bumper doesn't have the exhaust cutout, but that may be an advantage.

[octyal]

Now... ideas what kind of place could sort me with a remote release mechanism? Such a notion slipped my mind, Phil - good call!

 

That would be easy. You can repurpose the central locking actuator to run from a button so that it releases the catch, wire it to a spare OE button on the dash board, such as another fuel flap release button. You don't want it wired to the central locking otherwise the boot will pop each time you operate the central locking.

If you wanted to get really technical, then there is no reason why you couldn't use some form of proximity sensor for hands free unlatching, linked to the central locking so that it only works when the car is unlocked.

[KenONeill]

That would be easy. You can repurpose the central locking actuator to run from a button so that it releases the catch, wire it to a spare OE button on the dash board, such as another fuel flap release button. You don't want it wired to the central locking otherwise the boot will pop each time you operate the central locking.

If you wanted to get really technical, then there is no reason why you couldn't use some form of proximity sensor for hands free unlatching, linked to the central locking so that it only works when the car is unlocked.

If you don't have heated seats, there's a spare blank in the same row as the fuel filler release, HRW and ASR cancel.

[slimboyross]

Cheers fellas. I'm currently occupying the removed space of the spare OE button with a phone holder. Phone sits nicely in there now, so will look at a different type of button install, if such can be done reasonably cheap. Maybe a custom jobber added behind the indicator stalk. Noted re: central locking, octyal!

[niceyellow vrs]

You could just find a wall and restyle the back end by reversing into it. The result would look just as good, maybe even better