Looking at those pictures it doesnt look to be much of a leak,i personally would wash off the engine,top up the oil & monitor the leak & oil usage.If your not getting any oil deposits on the floor then i suspect its burning a bit of oil,my vrs use to use around 1 litre inbetween services & the engine was oil leak free. 

Looking at those pictures it doesnt look to be much of a leak,i personally would wash off the engine,top up the oil & monitor the leak & oil usage.If your not getting any oil deposits on the floor then i suspect its burning a bit of oil,my vrs use to use around 1 litre inbetween services & the engine was oil leak free.

Any tips for getting to the hard to reach places? Just squirt some engine cleaner in and let it sit for 5 then rinse off?

Edited 28 November, 20169 yr by planehazza

a mild degreaser and a soft paint brush or similar works wonders. edit: i used autoglym machine cleaner on mine but i'm sure any will do the job, and rinse off as you say.

Edited 28 November, 20169 yr by TheClient

Oh, I've forgot to add that I recently did the dipstick test. With the engine idling at 800rpm, I pulled the dipstick out and the idle went rough. I'm led to believe this is a good test to check PCV - is it a surefire test though?

I clean off oil leaks/spills by placing something under the engine (undertrays off) usually some disposable plastic sheeting. Then use brake cleaner spray (with the long tube if it has one) in the general area to be cleaned. Lots so it washes off with the oil/gunk to the ground. If the area can be accessed, I have a long artist brush that I can brush any gunk while being soaked and washed off. After a while leave to drip amd use kitchen roll to wipe sump/black of block as far as I can reach. Repeat until dripping is reasonably clean.

You will probably find any undertrays covered in oil if fitted. Thats normal in my opinion if you have an older diesel. Just clean it while its off.

Brake cleaner - great stuff.

Taking the dipstick out or removing the filler cap while running should make absoluetly no difference. Running rough sounds very strange and may indicate something serious.

Btw it is common if the pcv valve gets blocked/clogged up then you will start to get leaks at the weakest seals, the pressure in the crankcase will just build and build until it finds a way to vent.

If your not getting any drips on the floor I would say you are burning the oil rather than loosing it. It only takes a small weep of oil and the dirt acts like a wick and draws oil all over the engine and it looks bad. All the cars I've ever owned have had oil coated on them in some place.

 

I'm not saying the oil leak isn't an issue but make sure 100% what is the cause of the leak and how bad it is before spending time and money rectifying it. 

I clean off oil leaks/spills by placing something under the engine (undertrays off) usually some disposable plastic sheeting. Then use brake cleaner spray (with the long tube if it has one) in the general area to be cleaned. Lots so it washes off with the oil/gunk to the ground. If the area can be accessed, I have a long artist brush that I can brush any gunk while being soaked and washed off. After a while leave to drip amd use kitchen roll to wipe sump/black of block as far as I can reach. Repeat until dripping is reasonably clean.

You will probably find any undertrays covered in oil if fitted. Thats normal in my opinion if you have an older diesel. Just clean it while its off.

Brake cleaner - great stuff.

Taking the dipstick out or removing the filler cap while running should make absoluetly no difference. Running rough sounds very strange and may indicate something serious.

Btw it is common if the pcv valve gets blocked/clogged up then you will start to get leaks at the weakest seals, the pressure in the crankcase will just build and build until it finds a way to vent.

Thanks for this. I'd read a few times that if you pull the dipstick and the idle doesn't change, then it indicates a pcv fault. However, if it does change and become a little lumpy, then it suggests the pcv is fine. Is this wrong?

Edited 28 November, 20169 yr by planehazza

First I've heard of this. Sounds like an urban myth.

Idling is controlled by cam/crank position sensors, coolant temp sensor, lambda probes and fuel pressure/throttle position sensors.

Cant see how crankcase pressure could possibly affect idling.

Pcv valve is there to vent excess pressure back to the inlet for emmission purposes.(pcv - positive crankcase ventilation - its a non return/ one way valve).In the distant past engines just vented to atmosphere. Crankcase pressures should be at or close to atmospheric, so pulling the dipstick should make no difference whatsoever.

See if same happens when you unscrew the oil filler cap.

Could be you have a failing piston/rings and a blocked pcv has disguised it at idle.

Edited 28 November, 20169 yr by xman

First I've heard of this. Sounds like an urban myth.

Idling is controlled by cam/crank position sensors, coolant temp sensor, lambda probes and fuel pressure/throttle position sensors.

Cant see how crankcase pressure could possibly affect idling.

Pcv valve is there to vent excess pressure back to the inlet for emmission purposes.(pcv - positive crankcase ventilation - its a non return/ one way valve).In the distant past engines just vented to atmosphere. Crankcase pressures should be at or close to atmospheric, so pulling the dipstick should make no difference whatsoever.

See if same happens when you unscrew the oil filler cap.

Could be you have a failing piston/rings and a blocked pcv has disguised it at idle.

I'm no expert and I only understand roughly how the pcv works but I have seen the dipstick test mentioned several times across a few forums. Here's an example:

http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,44709.0.html?PHPSESSID=tj2vr4lmejolfator5p9og4gg2

I freaking hope it's not the pistons as I'd have say bye to Stella (what the girlfriend calls the car).

Edited 28 November, 20169 yr by planehazza

Maybe I'm wrong. Depends where the pcv is piped into, and the failure mode of the valve (shut/open). So it might be right for some engines.

Edited 28 November, 20169 yr by xman

Had it along to my local VAG specialit and they think that it's the plastic chain cover that's at fault and that it probably wasn't perfectly reinstalled when the chain tensioner failed and was replaced.

They've cleaned it up and have recommended I come back after Christmas to see how severely it has returned.

Whilst in, they've spotted a leaking drive shaft flange by gearbox. The list goes on!

Edited 30 November, 20169 yr by planehazza

Had it along to my local VAG specialit and they think that it's the plastic chain cover that's at fault and that it probably wasn't perfectly reinstalled when the chain tensioner failed and was replaced.

They've cleaned it up and have recommended I come back after Christmas to see how severely it has returned.

Whilst in, they've spotted a leaking drive shaft flange by gearbox. The list goes on!

It does sound like a bit of a saga. I did mention the leak looked very close to the upper junction of the timing chain / valve cover. At least your onto the oil loss and oil running down the back of engine. If the same garage did the timing chain job it maybe warranty or goodwill contribution if the leak persists - well worth a visit back. Better than forking out for renewing the valve cover gasket.

 

They didn't think a faulty PCV could be contributing to the appearance of oil leaks then?

It does sound like a bit of a saga. I did mention the leak looked very close to the upper junction of the timing chain / valve cover. At least your onto the oil loss and oil running down the back of engine. If the same garage did the timing chain job it maybe warranty or goodwill contribution if the leak persists - well worth a visit back. Better than forking out for renewing the valve cover gasket.

 

They didn't think a faulty PCV could be contributing to the appearance of oil leaks then?

I'm not sure. I mentioned it to them but I'm not sure it was investigated. I can check that again myself. All the checks I've done in the past have ruled out a PCV fault (dipstick check, diaphragm not split or stuck)