My Superb has heating probems ie. No heat

I've owned it this 100000 miles and always had problems with it. I have already changed the heater rad and it seemed to be OK for a while. But this last while heat seems to have got worse.

When it reaches temp and if I turn off blower heat will build up but after 10 or 20 seconds it's gone again.

I have flushed out the system a few times but no change.

Any ideas is it some of the flaps,the radio again or the controller?

Thanks for any answers I get

I see that you have flushed the system a few times after you have had the problem but my hunch would be an air lock.

No it's not an airlock.

I was getting timing belt done so took opportunity to try flushing. But it made no difference

I was meaning that the air lock could have happened prior to to work. Flushing will not get rid of an air lock as water can still pass.

Edited 28 December, 20169 yr by Danny 57

Best way to confirm/deny an airlock in the heater hoses is to get the engine hot, then squeeze the top hose. If it's soft, you have an airlock.

 

If your hands are less asbestos than mine you may need gloves to do this.

Will check that later if it is airlocked how do I clear it?

Would mechanic not have left it right after changing belt. I would like to hope he had.

Thanks for your help at this stage I'm trying everything.

Answer to "how do I clear an airlock"...You slacken the heater hose clamps where they go into the pipe that goes through the bulkhead and pull the rubber pipe back until it exposes the hole that allows air out to vent the highest point of the system.

 

My first thought was airlock, but I suspect that an airlock would be automatically removed from the system in a few days.

 

How about a loose impellor in the water pump? This would prevent the coolant being properly circulated around the system and might not cause overheating in an efficient PD diesel.  Yours is a diesel? If you remove the thermostat you can poke a finger inside to feel if the water pump impellor is in place and not loose.  I realise this would allow most of the coolant out, but you can drain and save much of it by using the drain tap at the bottom nearside of the rad. (Can be reached by pulling off the fog light grille in the bumper.  Pull the inner part of the grille by hand and it should come out easily)

What engine do you have? My son has my previous mk1 (2.0) diesel so I will check with him the following. If one of the upper hoses has a bleed valve probably not but some cars do. If one of the hoses does have a bleed valve it will be a small spigot or thumb type wheel on top of the hose. When you open/undo this valve it allows excess air to escape to be replaced with water.

Only do this when the hose is warm as it is more effective but do it very carefully as the water is obviously very hot.

If there is no bleed valve then the above is utter bo.....s. and sorry for wasting the minute or so reading this utter drivel.

No blooming emoticons.

Edited 29 December, 20169 yr by Danny 57

Looking forward to some detail when you've checked.

Bps engine but there is only a new water pump in car when I changed timing belt. The heat wasn't any better before that

Bps engine but there is only a new water pump in car when I changed timing belt. The heat wasn't any better before that

Knowing that was kind of vital, and points us in the direction of a stuck flap in the heater box.

 

So 10 minutes of flapperobics on a hot engine, and if that doesn't work a VCDS session.

Bpz engine here. Water pump was changed with timing a month ago. Heat wasn't great before it so no change there it's just winter now so I notice the lack of heat.

Have another mechanic at it as we speak going to try stay and maybe rad. Will let you know how we get on

Sorry ken I didn't notice your reply before I put up that last reply.what way would you do the flaps? Where are they located? Do I need dash out

Sorry ken I didn't notice your reply before I put up that last reply.what way would you do the flaps? Where are they located? Do I need dash out

Flapperobics; exercising the heat level and direction controls by pressing all the buttons repeatedly; make sure you take the temperature setting to "cold" and "hot" a few times each.

The actuator test sequence is on the second page, all actuators are exercised follow the instructions and do not interrupt the test.

http://www.saunalahti.fi/~jues/Climatronic_Self_Diagnostics.pdf

He has tried the flaps and all are moving as they should.

Dash and rad out now so getting a new one tomorrow. Is there is a big difference in genuine and nissens?

Is an aluminum core instead of copper in the rad a big difference?

Just to let you know rad changed 5 hours later and heat is working good.

Thanks for all your help

The old heater matrix was partially blocked?

 

Glad your problem is now fixed.  Dashboard out must have been expensive!

Yes it was and must have got clogged shortly after I changed it the last time as I never realy worked right.

Not as big of money as I thought 160

Not as big of money as I thought 160

 

Almost a bargain at 160.