12 months ago had same issue but with black smoke when I applied power, was a splitt in lower boost pipe (turbo exit) after pricing a new pipe i decided to try a repair first (worked a treat)

so just before Christmas my front spring snapped and it was sat on the drive for 3 weeks it went to the doctors and came back with adjustable coilovers, obviously i had withdrawals and eagerly wanted to hit the bends so over excited I picked it up from garage and went for a quick spin as soon as I hit the power the dreaded beep beep beep engine management light came on quickly followed by emissions workshop message and no power, I headed straight home.

I drove it to work (gently) on the third day the engine management light went out on startup so I thought maybe down to being sat for 3 weeks so I went for a drive on the sat. And 10 min in same again with the beep EM light EW message

I thought maybe my repaired boost pipe had spilt again but this time no smoke so I went under to remove, I unclipped the turbo exitand decided to remove the whole bottom pipe so unclipped the intercooler end as I pulled the pipe from the intercooler approx

100 ml of oil fell out!

There are no unusual noises from the turbo however I have no power

On the sat I drove 100 miles the car drove 30 miles before it got to temp as soon as the temp got to about 85 it then dropped to 30 as the therm opened and slowly creeped up to repeat

Is my turbo buggered? Could it be a sensor?

My vag obd reader crashes when reading but will clear fault only to come back on shortly after startup at idle

55 plate 6y vrs

I'd think that either the thermostat's stuck open (slow warmup) or the Coolant Temperature Sensor is FUBAR (variable but "in spec" readings which won't throw fault codes) or both.

Thanks for the reply Ken, my main concern is the lack of power, I wondered if it was something simple like a sensor before I rip my turbo out and send it off for a rebuild.

In the 18 months I have had the car it has burnt my bank account several times

Within 3 months of buying the clutch went had conversion to solid flywheel and upgraded plate

Then the head gasket was leaking water into combustion chamber so I had that done along with cam belt and waterpump both 17k early but I thought may as well as well

On my first MOT garage told me my rear wheels were like 50 pence pieces so I had a set of 17 inch wolfrace with new tyres still on original rears but on fifth set on front inside edge showing string but rest of tyre like new had in garage several times asking to check camber told can't find anything until my spring snapped had coilovers fitted and now this I have to much money in it to get rid but feel like i'm being raped...

Just found the vacuum connector strip not plugged into the valve block, funny that the valve block is located right over the top mount and as the warning lights came on 10 min after picking up from the garage after coilovers and top mount install!!!

Just worried about the oil in boost pipe, could the valve block not being plugged in for 100 miles cause damage to the turbo seals?

Just found the vacuum connector strip not plugged into the valve block, funny that the valve block is located right over the top mount and as the warning lights came on 10 min after picking up from the garage after coilovers and top mount install!!!

Just worried about the oil in boost pipe, could the valve block not being plugged in for 100 miles cause damage to the turbo seals?

 

You'll find oil in the boost pipe of any second hand car you look at, the turbo seals are not 100% effective for very long.

Wow just been for a 50 mile round trip in the Yorkshire dales, an drove it like I stole it, I have face ache from grinning to much, so glad I had coilovers fitted, lowered 40mm best thing ever, back end a bit twitchy when pushing it but booked in Wednesday for setup...

Temperature back to normal warmed in 10 mins