I've been reading up on this and it seems to be a common problem but it doesn't seem to have a common solution which is surprising and a bit disappointing! I feel it is worth a new post however incase I am missing anything. Interestingly though, when I bought the car three years ago it had this problem but my driving style (possibly in comparison to the last lady owner) seemed to solve it. Italian tune up style. This does suggest to me something might be fouled up again though. 

 

The rev's drop lower than they should when coming to a halt and car sometimes stalls. Warm starts are worse, sometimes won't idle at all until ran for a short while. This has been rearing it's head again for last couple of weeks and EML light came on today when it spluttered and stalled.

 

My temp sensor is ok, and the car is otherwise running well. It would appear as if it is a sensor sensing temperature of some kind, or getting a wrong signal/no signal.

 

Is there any chance there's anything worth changing before going down the diagnostics road? Is the cleaning of the throttle body worth doing and simple enough, thanks.

Edited 11 February, 20179 yr by silver50

How do you know your temp sensor is OK? The gauge working correctly does not necessarily indicate that the CTS is working correctly and it's quite a common fault on the MPI.

 

Do you have any fault codes?

Edited 11 February, 20179 yr by TMB

Thanks for your reply. I was just going by the temp gauge working ok. What would be the reason the reading can be ok but the sensor still at fault (working on the fair assumption that is the gauge is reading fine then it seems ok)?

 

Not done anything regarding reading fault codes. What's the best way to do this DIY?

Edited 11 February, 20179 yr by silver50

The sensor has several functions. The part that gives the gauge reading can be working normally whilst the rest is faulty. It's very easy to change without even draining the water, just pull out the plastic retaining clip and pull the sensor out of the thermostat housing. I would definitely advise getting a genuine Skoda one as some pattern parts are rubbish. If your sensor has two wires, the part number is 06A919501A

 

To get fault codes you need VCDS Lite (a free download), a laptop and a cable. You can also get cheap code readers on ebay but they have limited functionality. The diagnostic socket is behind the little cubby box on the drivers' side. Pull the lid right down past its usual stop to access.

 

Edited 11 February, 20179 yr by TMB

Thanks, am I right you can buy a cable from ebay? 

 

Just got this feeling something might be fouled up. Any ideas on the liklihood of the throttle body causing this? 

Yes you can get the cables on ebay. I guess a sticking throttle body could cause it.

Go here to download VCDS Lite 1.2 which is the one you need.

 

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.php

I got my cable from Gendan after some of the guys on here said it might be better quality than some of the ebay ones.

 

https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html

Many thanks for your help Lee

 

Weather permitting i'll see if I can take a look at the throttle body tomorrow

While you're around there, have a good look at the brake servo vacuum pipe. They've been known to split apart at the junctions of the hard plastic pipe.

Thanks. Had a wee look earlier and I think they all looked ok (looking for all pipes I could see near inlet manifold) but can have a better look tomorrow

37 minutes ago, silver50 said:

Many thanks for your help Lee

 

Weather permitting i'll see if I can take a look at the throttle body tomorrow

 

You are welcome

Delighted to say I seem to have cured this. I wish I could be 100% sure what did it but either

 

-light degreasing and cleaning with a brush around throttle body butterfly

 

-cutting 10mm off the smaller of the two pipes that goes onto the throttle body (at the throttle body end) because it was cracking but TBH didn't necessarily look as though it was actually leaking air

 

-I blew through the above pipe and something may have shot out the end into the throttle body but again not 100% sure 

 

Other than the above I only disconnected and re connected the water temp sensor and sensor at the back of the throttle body.

 

As soon as I started it up (from pretty close to cold) it idled at just above 1000rpm before settling. This was unusual in my 3 years of ownership, usually from cold it didn't show much sign of any variation from sub 1000rpm idling. Soon settled nicely to around 900.

 

Great news!

Edited 12 February, 20179 yr by silver50

Well done

 

I wasn't having any problems with mine but I decided to take the throttle body off and clean it with carb cleaner spray because I'd heard they can get gummed up. It didn't even need resetting when I put it back on.

Edited 12 February, 20179 yr by TMB