Hi guys, 

 

i have recently stage 1 remapped a 2007 tfsi vrs octavia. At the beginning it was really quick off the mark at low revs and no unusual or new noises. Lately it has been making a noise that i can only describe as boost pressure being released when i let off the throttle. The low end torque isnt the same. Is this a sign the diverter valve is split? I dont know which diverter valve to go for or why they are labelled D C G etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Chris

The standard diverter valve is a well known weak point. As you'll know the rubber diaphragm is likely split especially now the car is mapped. I bought my car a few months ago and the car was gutless. No midrange slow acceleration but couldn't hear any boost leak. I was fortunate in the fact I'd just sold a Seat Leon FR with the same engine so was had a idea what performance level to expect. The Octavia was way down on power. Changed the valve for a new one and the difference was unbelievable. Weird thing was though the rubber diaphragm on the old valve wasn't split anywhere. I'm sure it was the updated G version i bought. That has an improved rubber diaphragm and the car now is really quick. The car had no fault codes with the old valve btw.

Edited 30 April, 20179 yr by meaty101

Thanks, this helps. The performance i had immediately after the map was something else. Now its pretty lazy. Dont get me wrong. On a motorway with my foot down it will still perform. Its just lost its low rev torque. Can u advise me how to buy a new diverter valve? How do i know im buying the right thing? Theres lots if different shapes and sizes it would seem. What happens to the diverter valve when you fit an aftermarket dunp valve? 

Easiest thing to do would be to phone your nearest Skoda dealer just give them your reg number and they'll order the correct part. Or like i did ring TPS. I have the receipt I'll find it and post the part number.

Found the receipt. Part number is 06F 145 710 G. That's the correct up to date part. I personally wouldn't bother with aftermarket ones the standard valve will be fine for a stage 1 mapped vrs. Price was £38.93 inc vat.

Thank you very much. You have been a great help. All the best 

No problem that's what we are all on here for!! Post back here when you've fitted it and let us know if it's improved performance.

Chris, I have that very part here brand new, unopened. I was actually about to list it for sale.  Shall I PM you?

1 hour ago, planehazza said:

Chris, I have that very part here brand new, unopened. I was actually about to list it for sale.  Shall I PM you?

 

This forum is just ace!!

Got one today. will fit tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

 

thanks

Fitted this diverter valve today. The difference is night and day. Altho the old one didnt seem to be split. No obvious signs of a tear in the orange rubber. But its made a hell of a difference. All the low rev torque back. Spins the wheels very easily. I feel as tho i have had another 50bhp added. And no stupid dump valve noise. No whoosh when decelerating. Good result.

Excellent news buddy. I'm not actually sure what weakens on the diverter valve because like yours mine wasn't split. I'm presuming it's a spring inside that weakens over time. Did you notice the part number on your old valve? Mine was ending B.

Fitted this diverter valve today. The difference is night and day. Altho the old one didnt seem to be split. No obvious signs of a tear in the orange rubber. But its made a hell of a difference. All the low rev torque back. Spins the wheels very easily. I feel as tho i have had another 50bhp added. And no stupid dump valve noise. No whoosh when decelerating. Good result.

5 minutes ago, meaty101 said:

Excellent news buddy. I'm not actually sure what weakens on the diverter valve because like yours mine wasn't split. I'm presuming it's a spring inside that weakens over time. Did you notice the part number on your old valve? Mine was ending B.

Yeah my old one ended in C. Just before i changed it, it put the engine management light on so il have to arrange to get it turned off. Assuming its an overboost fault

Just try disconnecting the battery for an hour or two. It used to work clearing codes on my old mk1 vrs.

Sorted. Disconnected the battery for an hour or so and a short drive up the street and the ESP and tyre pressure lights went out. All is good again. Thanks again 

On Wed Mar 01 2017 at 17:40, planehazza said:

Chris, I have that very part here brand new, unopened. I was actually about to list it for sale.  Shall I PM you?

Pm me with a price please