Hey Lads, have an 02 octavia 1.4 BCA engine. my problem is, ive rebuilt the engine. because it had seized due to poor maintence of previous owner, the oil wasnt getting around so the big crank seized. anywho, everything was changed, I put it all back together, and the problem is that it wont start. its trying to, but wont. ive dropped a dod of petrol into it and there is blowback but thats all. Any idea what it could be? Battery not allowing the injectors to work properly? 

 

any input would be appreciated thanks

@Cogan

Are you 100% sure the timing is set right?

 

 

Or... at the least heres a thread bump

1.4 BCA engine on the Skoda usually has ignition leads and a wasted spark coil park. Are these leads fitted in the right order - 

 

Cambelts fitted correctly?

 

I remeber changing an engine in an old Cortina and having the same issue - leads where 180 deg out

 

PS I have a 1.416v fitted in my Octavia - if you need anything comparing (presuming it's the same)

 

 

 

Re removing crank - I thought you couldn't do this on these engines due to block "instability"

Edited 30 March, 20179 yr by bigjohn

hi sorry about the late reply, the timining had jumped a notch when starting the engine, the instructions for the tensioner said tighten it clockwise, but the haynes bible said do it anti clockwise. haynes was right the other wasnt... anywho. the timing is perfect now. 

but it still wont start. ive taken out the plugs to make sure the plugs are sparking which they are intermittently though. i think its the coils. BUT before the stupid old engine seized the car was running fine. there was no spluttering or anything and started first time.

im using the same coil pack with this rebuilt engine.

 

@bigjohn

any pics for comparison would be handy thanks. this is my first skoda. and its causing nothing but problems. 

 

Thanks for your time lads.

 

2 hours ago, Cogan said:

 

 

@bigjohn

any pics for comparison would be handy thanks. this is my first skoda. and its causing nothing but problems. 

 

 

 

 

If engine has turned with tensioner mispositioned you need to check the compression as you may possibly have caused some damage

 

My 2001 1.4 16v has the wasted spark type coil - photo taken from the gearbox end of the engine with plastic cover removed so that you can see lead ordering

 

PS the stuff on the leads is grease - the coil on these cars (and distributor with previous gen polos etc) is just behind the radiator and somewhat prone to the elements . Every year I removethe leads , clean with wd40 and bake for a few mins on a very low oven - then seal with grease. Stops condensation forming and stops any mis-firing on a damp wet day

 

 

Edited 6 April, 20179 yr by bigjohn

that coil pack isnt on mine. (the part that the grease is on) we checked the timing today after towing it, the car started but as soon as you clutch or brake the engine cuts out, and doesnt start again. 

engine is getting hot so we now its working. going to take the head off over the weekend to see if a valve has bent because of ****ty instructions. 

 

my car has a loom system on it for the sparks.

53 minutes ago, Cogan said:

that coil pack isnt on mine. (the part that the grease is on) we checked the timing today after towing it, the car started but as soon as you clutch or brake the engine cuts out, and doesnt start again. 

engine is getting hot so we now its working. going to take the head off over the weekend to see if a valve has bent because of ****ty instructions. 

 

my car has a loom system on it for the sparks.

 

Ah,

 

Just a thought - are you an earth strap short of a full set - I suspect you may be!!!! - Try connecting a jumplead between the "-" terminal on the battery and some clean metal on the engine and try starting. Missing earths can caused weird problems. May explain the "intermittent spark". I've done this myself with an engine transplant way back when when I had staring problems with a Ford Cortina - the clue was when the choke cable glowed red when trying to start the car as it was the only earth!

 

Coils can be wasted spark (as per my photo) or individual coils over plugs with a wiring loom - so issue probably not this

 

When it started were you on four cylinders? - If so then your valves probably OK.

 

Don't take head off yet - do a compression test first this will show up valve problems etc...

Edited 6 April, 20179 yr by bigjohn

They're individuals with the loom. We sorted out the intermittent spark, there was a break in the cable near the coil so we fixed that. The engine had started on a tow, but then stopped when we had to brake, that's the only time it would start.

25 minutes ago, Cogan said:

They're individuals with the loom. We sorted out the intermittent spark, there was a break in the cable near the coil so we fixed that. The engine had started on a tow, but then stopped when we had to brake, that's the only time it would start.

 

Check the earth - easy to get wrong when engine replaced

What do you mean? I think there is 3 earth's on the car, I've taken them all off, cleaned them and greased them for a better connection,  still no joy.

You can get this problem with a faulty crank sensor, check its connected properly, or you'll maybe need to change it. 

Edited 7 April, 20179 yr by Saints92

Did the compression test it's slightly over 200lbs, Haynes manual says a 1.8 is supposed to be 150, so is this right on a 1.4? The sparklers are saturated when we take them out, so could this be injectors? 

6 hours ago, Cogan said:

Did the compression test it's slightly over 200lbs, Haynes manual says a 1.8 is supposed to be 150, so is this right on a 1.4? The sparklers are saturated when we take them out, so could this be injectors? 

 

I'd say lack of spark - did you do the jump lead between battery "-" and  engine metal test? 

 

This is important as disturbed earth leads can cause problems - I've encountered this on a few cars. Usually they are crimped and if mechanically disturbed (eg engine removal) they can go slightly high resistance (higher when hot!) which really drops the voltage with many the amps required to turn a starter motor - which will also drop voltage to the coil pack. This is possibly why it jumpstarted OK - that's a possible clue 

 

Sorry for repeating this but give it a go...

 

 

Edited 7 April, 20179 yr by bigjohn

On 07/04/2017 at 22:44, bigjohn said:

 

I'd say lack of spark - did you do the jump lead between battery "-" and  engine metal test? 

 

This is important as disturbed earth leads can cause problems - I've encountered this on a few cars. Usually they are crimped and if mechanically disturbed (eg engine removal) they can go slightly high resistance (higher when hot!) which really drops the voltage with many the amps required to turn a starter motor - which will also drop voltage to the coil pack. This is possibly why it jumpstarted OK - that's a possible clue 

 

Sorry for repeating this but give it a go...

 

 

we did this john, the spark is strong, there was a break in the cable on one of the coils, so we've fixed that. now the sparks are goign where it should. sounds better than it did, but it still isnt starting.

took out the injectors to find that they where goo-y and dirty, so we've cleaned them. and replaced the rubbers, waiting for the battery to charge so we can try again. 

i've read online though, thats there is a plate? on the gearbox that has to be set a certain way for the car to start? ive never ran into one though, it looks like a sprocket? except thin, its attached to the gbox.

do you know what this is? its not in the haynes

I've not encountered this either I am afraid.

 

Does it still start when towed?

 

I wonder if the engine stopping when brake pedal being depressed is a clue? 

 

When I drive mine if you push brake pedal and accelerator at the same time when moving the power is cut - discover this when doing this to clean the brake disks after it hadn;t been used for a while. Obviously engine still ticks over when you stop

 

[EDIT] How about the EGR valve - it's not stuck open is it (no inlet manifold vacuum)? These are prone to failue - could be why it ran when towed .

 

Also as mentione by Saints92  above - crank sensor can cause issues as engine management doesn't accurately know "whats what " . I think buried in a manual that it the sensor fails it'll take the timing from another sensor (cam?) to keep the engine running but won't allow the car to re-start. Don't know why hitting the bake pedal would stop engine though

Edited 9 April, 20179 yr by bigjohn

Have you had any codes read?

15 hours ago, bigjohn said:

Have you had any codes read?

yes mate, had a p0638 error. think thats throttle body? thought id replied last night. 

What is being used to read your error codes?, VCDS or a generic reader?.

12 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

What is being used to read your error codes?, VCDS or a generic reader?.

I think it's a generic. It didn't have skoda on it, it had audi and VW though, so I let it do a live? Feed and came back with the error code. 

14 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

What is being used to read your error codes?, VCDS or a generic reader?.

I think it's a generic. It didn't have skoda on it, it had audi and VW though, so I let it do a live? Feed and came back with the error code. 

This is time I'm thinking it's the crank sensor? I think that's what it's called. From what I've read it's supposed to be 

.5mm out or something,   can anyone she'd light on it? Also the name of it thanks

Can you give me the engine code - i.e AGU, AUQ on a 1.8, so that I can source some info on your 1.4?.

 

If that is the sensing gear, I'm guessing the sensor is at the 10 o clock position to the gear. I need more info from you to be sure.

2 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

Can you give me the engine code - i.e AGU, AUQ on a 1.8, so that I can source some info on your 1.4?.

 

If that is the sensing gear, I'm guessing the sensor is at the 10 o clock position to the gear. I need more info from you to be sure.

engine is a 1.4 16v 2002 BCA, from what ive read that is an oil seal? that if, out by a fraction of a mm the car wont start.

so ive ordered the part for renting. itll be hear tomorrow. hopefully this is the problem, the car is actually ****in me off at this stage.

 

A bit of info on the subject - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.4_ltr./55_kw_engine_mechanical_components/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/removing_and_installing_cylinder_block/replacing_the_sealing_flange_for_crankshaft_flywheel_side/

 

What bit are you looking to change?. if it was my car I would be checking readings from the engine speed sensor that reads from that gear to see if it supplying an impulse.

On 11/04/2017 at 20:41, kentphil1 said:

A bit of info on the subject - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.4_ltr./55_kw_engine_mechanical_components/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/removing_and_installing_cylinder_block/replacing_the_sealing_flange_for_crankshaft_flywheel_side/

 

What bit are you looking to change?. if it was my car I would be checking readings from the engine speed sensor that reads from that gear to see if it supplying an impulse.

thanks alot for that it helped. i was a tooth out on it and i had it at 0.56mm rather than 5 so we redid it. engine still isnt starting though. atm im thinking it could be a crank sensor. but i dont know what id be looking for. any help here would be great. it was a different engine block used with the old rocker and head off of the seized engine. so im thinking its the sensor/s wha tdo you reckon?