I'm not sure if it's the same on these engines, but on some cars you tell the crank sensors gone as the rev pointer, on your dash, won't jump as you're winding the car over

21 hours ago, Cogan said:

thanks alot for that it helped. i was a tooth out on it and i had it at 0.56mm rather than 5 so we redid it. engine still isnt starting though. atm im thinking it could be a crank sensor. but i dont know what id be looking for. any help here would be great. it was a different engine block used with the old rocker and head off of the seized engine. so im thinking its the sensor/s wha tdo you reckon?

i would be using a multimeter now to see what readings and pulses the sensors are putting out to the ECU.

 

Are you using the sensors that came with the block, or have you swapped your old units across?.

On 17/04/2017 at 21:06, kentphil1 said:

i would be using a multimeter now to see what readings and pulses the sensors are putting out to the ECU.

 

Are you using the sensors that came with the block, or have you swapped your old units across?.

using the sensor that came with the block. how do i do the check to the ecu? 

any idea on the range of reading i should be looking at?

Do you still have the old block sensor to try?.

 

Will try and get some sensor reading info for you, bear with me.

OK, this is all the data I could find that you can check the system sensor with a multimeter - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.4/55_kw_engine_injection/ignition_system_glow_plug_system/testing_components_and_functions/testing_hall_sender__g40/

 

After this, you can only either test the system with diagnostic software (VCDS, VAS, Etc), or substitute sensors with known good ones from your old block.

 

Are you getting battery voltage at any engine plugs that carry system voltage?. Any low voltages would bring you back to bigjohn's posts about engine earth straps.

 

When you removed the engine, did you remove any reasonable gauge cables that were connected to the engine block or the gearbox?. These cables would be of a similar thickness to the ones below the battery, but would go from the powerunit to the chassis rather than back to the battery.

 

If you have an issue like the earth strap not being reconnected, you will not make sufficient voltage at the engine electrics for the ecu to fire the engine. According to the wiring diagram I have on the factory workshop manual, you have an engine earth at point 85 on the engine loom, but I cannot seem to ascertain where point 85 is in the underbonnet area. Perhaps someone with a 1.4 can fill in the blanks for you there, but a distinct possibility is near the coil loom.

 

Hope this is of some help,

 

Phil.

4 minutes ago, kentphil1 said:

OK, this is all the data I could find that you can check the system sensor with a multimeter - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.4/55_kw_engine_injection/ignition_system_glow_plug_system/testing_components_and_functions/testing_hall_sender__g40/

 

After this, you can only either test the system with diagnostic software (VCDS, VAS, Etc), or substitute sensors with known good ones from your old block.

 

Are you getting battery voltage at any engine plugs that carry system voltage?. Any low voltages would bring you back to bigjohn's posts about engine earth straps.

 

When you removed the engine, did you remove any reasonable gauge cables that were connected to the engine block or the gearbox?. These cables would be of a similar thickness to the ones below the battery, but would go from the powerunit to the chassis rather than back to the battery.

 

If you have an issue like the earth strap not being reconnected, you will not make sufficient voltage at the engine electrics for the ecu to fire the engine. According to the wiring diagram I have on the factory workshop manual, you have an engine earth at point 85 on the engine loom, but I cannot seem to ascertain where point 85 is in the underbonnet area. Perhaps someone with a 1.4 can fill in the blanks for you there, but a distinct possibility is near the coil loom.

 

Hope this is of some help,

 

Phil.

Thanks alot matey, I'll letche know the sus when I get home to check

Looking at this - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/power_transmission/gearbox_002/gearbox_mechanicsoperation_constructiondiff./removing_and_installing_the_gearbox/

in the first paragraph, an earth strap is referenced onto one of the gearbox bolts, just make sure you have not missed that one in a bout of premature enthusiasm.

 

hey guys, just an update. i got the engine running, ended up having to bring it to skoda, the problem ended up being a crank seal on the inside of the clutch pressure plate.

anywho the cars running now. BADLY. im  getting a P0171 error on the meter. which i think is an mass airflow meter, but i can only find it for the 1.8+ online. 

 

any help would be appreciated

 

A little bit more reading for you - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16555/P0171/000369

Ive looked at this already, I don't know what part it is... Is it on the air filter? Throttle body?  

Do you men the  g70 MAF, or the fuel pressure regulator?

Ive no idea. The p0717 says it's "too lean bank 1" Google says it's an MAF sensor. 

1 hour ago, kentphil1 said:

Do you men the  g70 MAF, or the fuel pressure regulator?

i cant really give much info on it,. the code reader i plugged in said that " too lean bank 1" forums are saying its an MAF sensor, to take it out and clean it.

ive never heard of this before. so i cant really say. with it being AIR im guessing its the big box in the airfilter. but at the same time id rather ask, than take something 

else off without knowing what it is. (crank seal behind the pressure plate i took off not knowing what it was expensive mistake)

 

Fuel trims are controlled by the MAF, the Lambda sensor and the ECU, which controls fuel pressure via the regulator.

 

Have a look at these vids -

 

they try to explain a complex subject in fairly simple terms, which may guide you to a fix for your issues.

 

MAFs can get dirty and do periodically require cleaning in IPA, but be careful as they are quite delicate in their construction.

 

Hope it helps.

Edited 17 May, 20179 yr by kentphil1