Nice one. Glad it's sorted now. 

8 hours ago, plantpowered said:

For £14.99, I think it's worth any Superb owner having a copy.

 

i catched free download link here on BriSkoda,
but it's removed :(
dead: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/444123-workshop-manual-english-edition/

alive: https://www.drive2.com/l/493938282543972532/

 

 

Very useful write up. I was not so lucky though :-(

I had real trouble getting the front pillar trim back on. First it didn't want to slide down into the dash, and then the middle clip does want to seat properly so it's bulging out.

And to make it feel 100% worse, im sure the dash end panel it far looser that it was before....

(I ran out of time to actually hook it all up, so not achieved anything other than adding rattles to the cabin... i'm off to sulk now.

 

Any tips on getting things back on tightly.... i think the pano roof drains in the pillars are taking up all the space.

On 21/11/2018 at 06:00, DjEatch said:

Very useful write up. I was not so lucky though :-(

I had real trouble getting the front pillar trim back on. First it didn't want to slide down into the dash, and then the middle clip does want to seat properly so it's bulging out.

And to make it feel 100% worse, im sure the dash end panel it far looser that it was before....

(I ran out of time to actually hook it all up, so not achieved anything other than adding rattles to the cabin... i'm off to sulk now.

 

Any tips on getting things back on tightly.... i think the pano roof drains in the pillars are taking up all the space.

I had similar issues getting the A-Pillar trim back on properly. In fact, after I posted this, I went about 3 months with it not seated properly, before I found some time to spend on it.

 

I'm now trying to remember exactly what I did... I think part of the problem was that the metal clips had become a bit misshapen during my several attempts to clip the trim back on. I was able to straighten them out by hand quite easily. I also had a cable running quite close to the clip at the top, which was getting in the way of a plastic spacer attached to the trim. Although it wasn't in the way of the hole, the spacer was catching on the cable and sitting slightly proud, which caused the whole panel to stick out. After some fiddling, I was able to move the cable into a better position, and after straightening the clips, it went on with relative ease, and was once again back to how it should have been; no hint that it's ever been removed, now.

 

The trickiest part of all is getting the bottom part of the trim (the irregularly-shaped bit) right down into the corner of the dash. Perseverance is key: keep going until you get it in. I had to remove it several times to get it into exactly the right position. 

 

The middle clip does take quite a whack to get it to seat properly; don't be afraid to give it a good hit with your fist, as long as you're confident that it's seated properly over the hole.

 

I don't have the pan roof, so may have a little more space than you, but it is still fairly tight in there. Just make sure the cables are well clear of anything that the trim could sit on. Cable ties are your friend; just be careful not to interfere with the airbag. If you were closer, I'd offer some assistance, but I'm Oxfordshire. Good luck! 

 

P.S. Do you have the workshop manual I mentioned above? If not, I'm happy to copy the page about the A-Pillar for you, but the manual is well worth the £15.

 

 reviving this to say many thanks! I used it to do the install of a Road Angel Halo pro on our Octavia III hatch. Running wiring in the boot was a bit more fiddly as there were no holes at the top, so i had to run the length of the boot glass to a hole at the bottom and then back up! They seem to have changed the wiring slightly, ALL of my fuses were live even with the ignition off (even for stuff that doesn't work like heated seats/windscreen/AC etc - I tried a lot!).  I even tried 38/48 as in the instructions, but although I could detect correct voltage from them (even the swithced one) they didn't work when i plugged the hardwire kit into it, I guess because I don't have them and i could see in the fuse box only on side of the socket was 'live'. @RoyF280 Maybe you could confirm if yours was the same if you're still around here? . 

 

So I wired it with the permanent coming off the tow bar connection and the switched running off the 12v socket, in the hope the the battery management sw in the car will kill the 12v supply if the battery runs down and that will switch the camera to park mode (the same as my wifi hotspot in the boot). I've also set the camera to 'high' battery protection (turns off when it dips below 12.4v). It really is one of my bug bears of VAG cars, the fact that it doesn't just kill things properly when you turn the car off!

Worst case scenario is either the SD card dies early from constant monitoring or the camera has been switched off by the car when someone hits us parked! At least i now kinda have CCTV in the front of the house when we're home!

Managed to fix it! For anyone who didn't know, the piggyback fuses have to be plugged in the correct way around, especially if you're using an empty slot. If you plug them in the wrong way around you either get no power, or you run through both fuses if you've put another one in!

Many thanks, just done mine.  I found in my 2015 estate, Fuse 38 was permanent live, fuse 48 was powered by ignition, so I went with 48.  I only put a camera in the front so it didn't take long once I figured out the manual offers no help for removing the glovebox.

As above, I also put it my front cam today using this guide.

 

Huge thanks to the original author for taking the time and trouble to provide the "Idiot's Guide".

Much appreciated.

 

Hi everyone,

Haven't been on here for a while, but glad to see this has been helping a few of you.

Just started this tonight.  I have the A pillar done and the wire sitting under the glovebox.  Whats the best way to get the wire across from the passenger to drivers side?  

Confused why you’d want to? The fuse box is behind the glove box.

After completing mine, it has now affected my DAB reception. Which 12v to 5v converter did others use?

 

14 minutes ago, DogEgg said:

After completing mine, it has now affected my DAB reception. Which 12v to 5v converter did others use?

 

I used a hardwire kit in the Octavia and it’s had no affect I can tell on the DAB. My other cat only has an internal glass mount antenna for dab and I used a wicked chilli adapter from amazon to minimise interference 

A glass mount antenna on your cat...bet its pleased about that!

3 hours ago, Robbijay said:

Confused why you’d want to? The fuse box is behind the glove box.

Ah, I thought it was over on the inside of the drivers door.. So the glove box has to come out then?  

6 hours ago, technics100 said:

Ah, I thought it was over on the inside of the drivers door.. So the glove box has to come out then?  

Yeah but it's really easy to get out. The manul in the MySkoda app has instructions on how to do it. you just prize the side cover off the dash (the same angle as the door opens), then theres a hole you can poke your finger in at the bottom of that side to unhook a catch on the bottom and you ligt it up and out (forcefully). Getting it back in is the tricky bit!!

Great guide, im looking to replace my front camera with a 2ch system so will refer to this.

I've read you amazing 

 

I'm absolutely stumped with removing the upper trim. In my Octavia there are two round pins either side where is meets the lower trim, that just won't budge. Any tips?

Edited 30 July, 20196 yr by ColinD
clean up whole quote

Any tips on how to persuade these rubber grommets back over the plastic part cause I have really struggled I've got them on but they don't looks as neat as before. Absolute faff. Must've spent almost an hour trying to to the one near the boot hinge. 

Thanks for posting this, I was trying to get my rear camera wired and thought I was doing something wrong where all the interior trims are so well attached.

The last car I had a rear camera in was my 56 plate X-Trail, and the interior trims were so basic it was only a 5-10 minute job getting the whole thing installed! 

I just use the back 12v socket for my rear dashcam and plug it in before every trip I've now done this since the car was new, It's no hassle so if anyone reading this doesn't want to go to the trouble it's always an alternative.

Does anybody have any tips for reattaching the rubber tubing from the body to the bootlid? really struggling to reattach.

Does wiper reach place where camera lens are or it is out of yhe range?

I noted on Estate tov have camera within rear wiper range. Ot need to be glued to the window ~10-15cm below upper plastic internal cover, i was wondering mayby to install it in bottom part, closer to wiper mechnism bo not sure if this would be good position.

Edited 27 November, 20223 yr by siemi1

recently did a 2-channel dashcam install on a Skoda Superb Estate—front and rear cam setup with parking mode. Routing the rear camera cable through the headliner and into the tailgate was a bit tricky, but definitely doable with some patience. I tapped into the fuse box for power using a hardwire kit with an add-a-fuse connector.

If anyone's looking for detailed wiring diagrams or fuse box layouts, I found https://workshopmanuals.org/ pretty useful for reference. Made the install process a lot smoother.