Hi, I have searched high and low for a solution to this but only got so far. Am hoping someone can help the rest of the way.

My Octavia Mk2 did the ‘window open during the night’ trick on me a few weeks ago. The drivers side took most of the rain.  The 4 window controller in the drivers door has stopped working. I can open the other 3 windows using their own switches, but I can’t open any of them from the drivers door. I can’t open the drivers window at all.

I can open and close them all - including the drivers window - using the long press on the remote.

I removed the window control unit, opened it up and it was rotten, full of oxidation.

There appear to be just two related fuses, numbers 23 and 32 and both of these look fine.

I have purchased a new control unit, £15 from ebay,  and fitted it. Same situation, still nothing working from drivers door but 3 other individual switches work fine.

I have taken the door trim off and all wiring looks fine. Very neat, no sign of wear anywhere, including inside the rubber cover protecting the wiring passing from the door to the car body.

 

Any ideas on what else I should look for?

Are there any more fuses anywhere I need to check?

Is there any way of testing the new control unit is working?

How might a novice go about testing the wiring to identify if any have broken out of sight?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Any help much appreciated.

Andy

 

Have you re-checked fuses for this?

Thanks, Yes, I checked both 23 and 32 again yesterday. 

It sounds like the switch itself might be goosed (likely from the rain you have mentioned got on it)? Suggest a vcds scan would be useful if you can find a helpful member nearby...

Edited 14 April, 20179 yr by adamal

Thanks, the new control unit came with all new switches attached to it. Hopefully they are working. 

In which case I would suggest an electrical short. A vcds scan or a look at a wiring diagram and some electrical testing of voltages across the drivers side switched positive and earth contacts (with switch operated) etc would be useful. Try googling "j386 wiring" for a diagram.

Edited 14 April, 20179 yr by adamal

Great, thank you, I'll try that. 

You are also able to test the wiring by connecting wires that goes to the switch. By connecting two different wires together (Need to find the ones that work) The mechanism registers a button click and opens or closes window. You can test this with different combinations to see which wire connected to which does which function. I could do this with my two window switch so you should be able to test it this way too.

 

As for the switch itself you can fix it by checking it with multi meter and following the circuit flow. In This way i was able to fix completely broken switch. The problem for mine was that at points where circuit path goes through a hole to other side of the board was not continuous. So used some solder to connect them.

You can try the same probably  

i had this happen on my 2006 octavia l&k, i bought a second hand replacement control module as the actual motor was fine, i thought id got the correct module as only the last letter of the part number was different , i needed ending in H, the 1st one i got ended with a J, i assumed the higher letter was just a revised part, i was wrong and it wouldnt work, i had to find the module with the exact part number it worked as soon as i plugged it in and my drivers window was back to normal, but i lost my money on the 1st control module

Edited 19 April, 20179 yr by moiloon

Thanks for all the suggestions.   It is great that people take the time out to help.

This is the item I bought and replaced, and it quotes an OEM number of 1Z0959858B which matches what was printed on the side of my corroded unit.  Is that enough ID to mean it is exactly the right part?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162130199334?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It looks physically identical.

This has 10 pins and the connector has 10 cavities but only has 8 wires attached but there is no sign of loose or stray wires anywhere.  Does that sound ok?

I have shorted all the possible combinations in the connector to this unit, and have found just 4 combinations that do anything and they will each lower one of the windows. But I can't find any combination that will raise the windows.  Does this necessarily mean there must be a fault somewhere in the wiring?

When I plug the connector into the switch unit, none of the switches cause anything to happen. I cannot replicate the window lowering I got through shorting.  Does this then mean there must be a fault in the replacement unit?

Again, any advice or ideas would be great, thank you.

 

well thats the switching unit

i was talking about the window control module on the window motor behind the door skin, thats where your problem will be residing i feel, i tried different switches from my mk5 golf at the time i was having issues, just like you are, buttons from my golf did work perfectly, but not in my skoda so investigated further, checked all the wiring through the door jam gaitor ect, and as stated above was the actual window motor control module as it seperates from the motor and testing the actual motor with independant 12v on bench proved motor was fine, but the control module was duff, exact same symptoms you have, only my drivers window would not function, all others were fine

Edited 19 April, 20179 yr by moiloon

Thanks Moiloon.  I did wonder, that's why I posted the link.  I will have a root around with the control unit in the light tomorrow.

just get another module from a breakers, this what i did, but it must be the exact part number, i lost £25 not researching or asking a question here before buying lol, such is my luck though

10 hours ago, andy_n said:

Thanks for all the suggestions.   It is great that people take the time out to help.

This is the item I bought and replaced, and it quotes an OEM number of 1Z0959858B which matches what was printed on the side of my corroded unit.  Is that enough ID to mean it is exactly the right part?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162130199334?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It looks physically identical.

This has 10 pins and the connector has 10 cavities but only has 8 wires attached but there is no sign of loose or stray wires anywhere.  Does that sound ok?

I have shorted all the possible combinations in the connector to this unit, and have found just 4 combinations that do anything and they will each lower one of the windows. But I can't find any combination that will raise the windows.  Does this necessarily mean there must be a fault somewhere in the wiring?

When I plug the connector into the switch unit, none of the switches cause anything to happen. I cannot replicate the window lowering I got through shorting.  Does this then mean there must be a fault in the replacement unit?

Again, any advice or ideas would be great, thank you.

 

 

If you look into the switch you will find that the switch operates on connecting different resistance. For example in my switch for opening there was 0 Resistance switch, but for closing the switch connected a 750 Ohm resistor in circuit. 

In my case i could short the wires to open and close, but my switch is only front windows. Maybe because of this the circuit is easier and the resistance is not actually necessary.

In your case because of 4 windows switch and the lock the circuit could be more complicated and the resistance must be added when you short your wires.

For your new switch, it might have different resistance to the wires, which would let the system to not register a correct switch position. You can test this by checking the circuit of both - corroded switch and the new one. 

 

But i would suggest to open the old switch and remove the oxidation and try to short the circuit there. You will see where you need to short after you see the inside of the switch.

 

 

Skoda Octavia mk2 iz3 1.4tsi (2004-2013)

 

Please help!

 

Cannot open the rear two electric windows from the remote control or from the drivers central switches, cannot open them from their own switches too.

The problem occured at the same time and I mentioned it after a technician changed the main battery of the car.

 

I need to know if there is a central control module or every door has his own module for operating the motor.

 

Also as I read above the 1Z0959858B is only the switches right? 

 

thank you

 

 

 

 

Need to get the fault codes scanned really and check live data. 

Th

6 hours ago, Tech1e said:

Need to get the fault codes scanned really and check live data. 

Thank you Techle,

Today we have run a full vcds scan , no errors, no fauls, as the technician said to me. Do I have to ask him something special? To pay attention to specific codes? 

I asked the technician if replacing the 1Z0959858B will solve the problem and he answered probably not because as he measured when pressing down the rear switch from the drivers door, rear right or left, he can see to the scanning program that electricity pass through 

 

Any suggestions ?

What to ask him to do further ?

 

If you need a video from scanning or a photo I can arrange it

 

Thank you in advance

8 minutes ago, NiklasLuft said:

Actually as the technician said to me right now on the phone, he gets error code 30 and explained to me that it means "lost electrical contact to the rear windows, but no cables broken. Also as I said above the problem occurred at the same time to both windows and thats crazy...

 

Please help

Also after deeper research , I found that the recommended battery for  Skoda Octavia mk3 iz3 1.4 tsi is type 027

As I said  previously  the problem occurred after battery change, today I checked the battery placed at the car , this is this at the photo, but as I checked this is not type 027 battery type, can it be the cause of the problem, 

 

Thank you for the atention

Please help,

Everything  happened after battery change, don't know if this is in relation with the problem.

Cannot open both rear windows, Skoda Octavia iz3 1.4 tsi.

Vcds scan gives faults as in attached photos.

I will appreciate any recommendations 

Thank you

 

 

What happens if you clear the codes?

 

The battery isn't as powerful nor does it have the capacity of a 027 battery but it shouldn't cause any damage, it might just struggle to start when it's cold (may not apply to Greece).

1. Technician said that cannot clear the codes (is it possible?)

2. I never had problems at cold start, with tho old battery or the new one either. here minimum temperatures now are 24oC

 

Please help

 

The fault won't clear if the supply voltage is still low.

 

You need to find a wiring diagram and start tracing the power and ground connections for the rear door controllers. Probably worth replacing the fuse if it's common to both controllers and checking the contacts are both clean and in good condition.

The you 

On 18/09/2019 at 22:26, langers2k said:

The fault won't clear if the supply voltage is still low.

 

You need to find a wiring diagram and start tracing the power and ground connections for the rear door controllers. Probably worth replacing the fuse if it's common to both controllers and checking the contacts are both clean and in good condition.

Thank you for the information ,

The car has one fuse for the front and another one for rear windows, yes fuse for rear windows is common for both left and right.

So I replaced the fuse for rear windows with that for the front windows  but problem still exist, also with the fuse from the rear windows placed to control front windows ,no problem to open and close front windows , so I think that the problem is not the fuse

In which case you need to start checking voltages to see how much voltage drop there is between the battery and rear door controllers.