Topped up after almost 2 weeks of little driving time (probably ran completely empty) and I don't get any wash fluid on my windshield and back window anymore...

 

I hear the relays clicking but there's no jet. Other than poking the nozzles with a needle what else can I try?

2 minutes ago, Inex said:

Topped up after almost 2 weeks of little driving time (probably ran completely empty) and I don't get any wash fluid on my windshield and back window anymore...

 

I hear the relays clicking but there's no jet. Other than poking the nozzles with a needle what else can I try?

You can try to locate the pumps and see if they work or connect a VCDS and see if it shows any info.

Some more info for accessing the reservoir and pumps. Workshop Manuals - Windscreen Washer System

You can try to see if the voltage gets to the pumps at connectors by connecting a multi-meter too.

 

Aren't the headlight nozzles powered by the same pumps?

The headlight nozzles are powered by a different pump. Here is a photo I took before, the left bigger pump powers the headlight nozzles and the right smaller pump powers windshield nozzles. In between is the fluid sensor. If you still have enough fluid then there could be something wrong with the pump.

You have to remove the front bumper to get to the fluid tank and pumps.

In the workshop link shown above there is a separate pump for the the headlight washer. 

There is another pump for the screens. It is common for the direction of motor rotation in the pump to determine which of the two outlets water goes to - front or rear screen.

 

The headlight washer should only come on with first or fifth request for windscreen wash, and then only if the headlights are on.

If different to this then suspect a control board failure. If this is ok then pull out the screen wash pump and bench test it.

 

edit. Post above was made while I was still writing mine and is on the same lines.

Others have been able to get to the pump after just removing the wheel arch guard.

Edited 13 June, 20179 yr by pikpilot

The windscreen washer pump can be accessed by removing the right-hand fog light or blank if not fitted, there is no need to remove the bumper.

 

Pull out the small section of adjacent grill to access the fog light securing screws.

13 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

In the workshop link shown above there is a separate pump for the the headlight washer. 

There is another pump for the screens. It is common for the direction of motor rotation in the pump to determine which of the two outlets water goes to - front or rear screen.

 

The headlight washer should only come on with first or fifth request for windscreen wash, and then only if the headlights are on.

If different to this then suspect a control board failure. If this is ok then pull out the screen wash pump and bench test it.

 

edit. Post above was made while I was still writing mine and is on the same lines.

Others have been able to get to the pump after just removing the wheel arch guard.

 

Forget about the wheel arch. My bad.

Anyway, do you have to remove the front tire as well if you want to get the pump?

Damn it.... Thanks for the input guys....

 

How did this even happen? Can't believe I have this too now :(

On 6/13/2017 at 12:19, NOSDylan said:

The headlight nozzles are powered by a different pump. Here is a photo I took before, the left bigger pump powers the headlight nozzles and the right smaller pump powers windshield nozzles. In between is the fluid sensor. If you still have enough fluid then there could be something wrong with the pump.

You have to remove the front bumper to get to the fluid tank and pumps.

 

Thanks for the picture! I will print it out and have it with me when I fix it.

 

I got it scanned with VCDS, nothing shows up there. Will try to determine if the pump is doing anything at all, if not, will just replace it when I take it in for the MOT preparation service.

3 hours ago, Inex said:

 

Thanks for the picture! I will print it out and have it with me when I fix it.

 

I got it scanned with VCDS, nothing shows up there. Will try to determine if the pump is doing anything at all, if not, will just replace it when I take it in for the MOT preparation service.

Before replacing, always try to check if there is any current going to the part you want to change, because most cases the problem is in wires and not the part.

Maybe some will say different, but checking the current costs you basically nothing and takes up to 1 minute of your time

And if this is the case of no current to the part then you will save the money for a new part

I will try to listen for the pump in a quiet area. if I hear it then I know its clogged up lines or something else.

 

As for testing the current, I plan on doing the work without removing the bumper, through the fog light hole - not sure I will be able to fit a tester through there and I have no idea where the cables are being routed to.. The pump costs up to 10 pounds anyways.

Easier to check for voltage on the terminals with a multi-meter than to check for current with an ammeter.