High Rpms

[Nisko]

Hi! 
My Skoda continues to keep things interesting for me, and the latest glitch is an idle rpm which without reason jumps from 750 to 1000 rpm. 
Usually starting the car in the mornings, it as per normal starts out with the higher rpm at 1000 and then drops down to the usual 750 idle and stays put once it's all warmed up and running at normal operating temperature. That's when it's behaving... 
Yesterday, it decided it wasn't coming off the 1000 rpm (even though I don't normally move the car till I have optimal operating temperature achieved), but as it has randomly done this before even during the day (not just cold starts in the morning), and as it had worked before on those occasions, I switched off the engine and back on and voila!....The Coke Bottle as I like to call it, returns to normal idle. 
Now I've read on a couple threads about cars regenerating and diesels doing this...mine isn't a diesel.
Also read about cold ambient temperatures making for the 'clever' technology which ensures the car doesn't stall in colder weather (the thinking I guess being better higher rpms than the car stalling on you), but I live in the tropics. Seasonal rains here right now, but even accounting for the slightly milder temperatures, we're still looking at 23-32 Celsius daytime which is hardly anyone's winter and I bet many in England would trade that for a good summers day . 
Anyway, it's rather uncomfortable to drive a car which irrationally (to me at least) kicks in with higher rpms erratically and basically drives you forward rather than let you do the driving. Not nice and hate the sound of the engine once it's doing it too. 
By the way, notice if I want to ensure it goes all mad on me, Air-conditioning load on the car is pretty much guaranteed to make the rpm jump (though I can see the rational behind that, engine is afterall carrying more load), but lights on and your radio and a cold day (er, in my case that would convert to an English warm summers day), not so much.

So what could be the problem? 

"The Coke Bottle" is a 2010 1.6L, 16v petrol Automatic (not a usual engine configuration for the UK, I know), but any help would be greatly appreciated. 
 

[Rooted]

I think you might find that the temperatures you mention is what much of England has been having for the past few days.

 

So how many miles or km has the car done, 

and is it serviced up to date, Good clean air filter, good spark plugs in with the correct gap, fuel filter OK etc etc.

[Nisko]

4 minutes ago, Awayoffski said:

I think you might find that the temperatures you mention is what much of England has been having for the past few days.

 

So how many miles or km has the car done, 

and is it serviced up to date, Good clean air filter, good spark plugs in with the correct gap, fuel filter OK etc etc.

...temperatures, hear you're in the middle of something of a heatwave , yes. 

Done 79,294 km, and now you mention *covers face* service indicator is on. 

Perhaps I should do as you suggested, and then get back with an update.

Thanks  

 

[eccleshill]

Tickover rpm on my 1.6 diesel runs at 1000 under 3 conditions:

1. when the engine is cold - but after driving 400 metres or so it drops back to 750
2. during regeneration - but yours isn't a diesel.
3. when the battery charge is low (I think that's the cause!!) - it does it at random on cold winter mornings when it stays at 1000rpm for nearly all the 8 miles of my commute.  Never noticed it in summer though.

[m8t]

Try lifting the accelerator pedal up with your toe. If that brings it back to normal revs it a sticky accelerator pedal. I squirted some WD40 at the pivot point and after it worked its way in after a few trips it solved the high tickover. Make sure you wipe any excess off the pedal.

[Nisko]

9 hours ago, m8t said:

Try lifting the accelerator pedal up with your toe. If that brings it back to normal revs it a sticky accelerator pedal. I squirted some WD40 at the pivot point and after it worked its way in after a few trips it solved the high tickover. Make sure you wipe any excess off the pedal.

Thanks for the advice m8t, will look into that. 

[pearce_jj]

On 21/06/2017 at 07:16, Nisko said:

  I don't normally move the car till I have optimal operating temperature achieved

 

Ungood!!

 

Such practice greatly increases engine wear since byproducts of the rich combustion when cold include some acids. It's also not very environmentally conscious.

[Nisko]

3 hours ago, pearce_jj said:

 

Ungood!!

 

Such practice greatly increases engine wear since byproducts of the rich combustion when cold include some acids. It's also not very environmentally conscious.

Ahhhh.....so shouldn't wait for blue temperature warning light to go out before moving off?  My apologies if this sounds like a daft question, but that's what I currently do.

[pearce_jj]

I think the blue light is just there to say "go easy" basically.

 

FWIW I generally let it idle for 10s to give the oil chance to circulate but the handbook actually says just drive off right away.

[Nisko]

On 6/22/2017 at 21:42, pearce_jj said:

I think the blue light is just there to say "go easy" basically.

 

FWIW I generally let it idle for 10s to give the oil chance to circulate but the handbook actually says just drive off right away.

Right, go easy it is then. Thanks for the clarification.