mk1 vrs losing throttle again

[octaviavrs170]

[octaviavrs170]

Sorry for the lack of installation pictures I was too busy swearing as I have huge hands and it was such a tight space to manoeuvre my hands. 

Edited 14 September, 2017 by octaviavrs170

[kentphil1]

Do you hear the pump prime for a second or two when you open the drivers door?, if not, check your way through this - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./92_kw_engine_fuel_injection_and_ignition_system_motronic/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/testing_components_and_functions_ii/test_fuel_pump_relay_and_control/

 

If all checks out ok, I would check out your crank sensor for a signal, as that may have been the initial cause of your breakdown, see here - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_fuel_injection_and_ignition_system/ignition_system_glow_plug_system/repairing_the_ignition_system/testing_hall_sender__g40/test_condition/

 

When it broke down, did it just "cut" immediately or did it fade and cut out?.

[octaviavrs170]

5 minutes ago, kentphil1 said:

Do you hear the pump prime for a second or two when you open the drivers door?, if not, check your way through this - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./92_kw_engine_fuel_injection_and_ignition_system_motronic/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/testing_components_and_functions_ii/test_fuel_pump_relay_and_control/

 

If all checks out ok, I would check out your crank sensor for a signal, as that may have been the initial cause of your breakdown, see here - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_fuel_injection_and_ignition_system/ignition_system_glow_plug_system/repairing_the_ignition_system/testing_hall_sender__g40/test_condition/

 

When it broke down, did it just "cut" immediately or did it fade and cut out?.

When I started the car it cranked up then 2 seconds later cut out. Then it restarted and the same again. 2 seconds later cut out. It faded out. It's refused since then to start. It tries to start up. It cranking but it's as if no fuel is getting into it. I changed the crankshaft sensor too when the same probkem occurred last year about November time. He coaxed it to start with easystart. The mechanic at work tested the electric connection to the pump tonight and he said there was nothing to pump and not to change the pump. He reckons definitely electrical. Am I right in assuming that relay 447 and 109 ould be a culprit. 

[octaviavrs170]

Just now, octaviavrs170 said:

When I started the car it cranked up then 2 seconds later cut out. Then it restarted and the same again. 2 seconds later cut out. It faded out. It's refused since then to start. It tries to start up. It cranking but it's as if no fuel is getting into it. I changed the crankshaft sensor too when the same probkem occurred last year about November time. He coaxed it to start with easystart. The mechanic at work tested the electric connection to the pump tonight and he said there was nothing to pump and not to change the pump. He reckons definitely electrical. Am I right in assuming that relay 447 and 109 ould be a culprit. 

I definitely don't the hear anything from the pump. I definitely used to hear that specific noise. 

[nige8021]

Starting for a few seconds then stopping is classic Immobiliser cutting in

[kentphil1]

I was going to say the same as nige8021, do you have a spare key  to try, as the immo chip may have got damaged somehow, possibly dropping your keys recently?

[octaviavrs170]

6 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

I was going to say the same as nige8021, do you have a spare key  to try, as the immo chip may have got damaged somehow, possibly dropping your keys recently?

Unfortunately no spare key. And definitely never dropped the key. If it is an immobiliser fault is there any way of confirming this as I don't have the money time or tbh patience to fault find every piece of electrical system to find out it is the immobiliser. If I can't get this fixed it's getting broke for spares. I've spent enough cash on the car. Everything genuine parts as well especially recently with pcv system. That's direct from dealer. 

[KenONeill]

@octaviavrs170 - I'm afraid that I'm the 3rd person to think "immobiliser fault" if the engine's firing then stopping after 2 or 3s.

[nige8021]

If you get a VCDS scan it should show a code for "Start blocked by immobiliser" 

[octaviavrs170]

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

@octaviavrs170 - I'm afraid that I'm the 3rd person to think "immobiliser fault" if the engine's firing then stopping after 2 or 3s.

It's not even starting up just cranking over. It's THE most annoying thing ever. Anyway I have booked an auto electrician to look at the car asap. I love my car but unfortunately I'm losing patience with it. 

[octaviavrs170]

51 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

If you get a VCDS scan it should show a code for "Start blocked by immobiliser" 

One of the lads at work has a delphi scanner. Hopefully this shows something. 

[octaviavrs170]

Again sorry for the very late update to the thread about the shenanigans of the car. Had to wait ages on a auto electrician to look at the car. Anyway before I got him to look at the car I changed the fuel pump relay 409 and it never worked. Pump wouldn't prime. When the auto spark looked at the car the fuel pump relay from gsf was useless and he had to put a direct feed to the pump and bang the bottom of the tank for it to work so he diagnosed it with a faulty motor pump. Well i got a new one and changed it tonight at work and what an absolute pita of a job. Easy enough to remove but a pita to re-install. That rubber seal around the pump and the tank has to be a perfect seal. Needless to say doing it in the dark ain't a good idea. However eventually got it in and it wouldn't start. Turns out the multiplug to the pump is damaged as it's unbelievably brittle. It connects ok but the "tang" that helps secure the plug to the pump is damaged so the connector sits on the plug but loose. So now going to get the auto spark back out to fix that. Car is running good but very lumpy on idle revs. Sounds like its missing. Sits about 800rpm and lumpy. So going to check the coils for correct fitment tomorrow and contact the auto spark again to fix the multiplug but apart from that I'm so glad the car is back on the road. I ran the car for a good 30 mins to help recharge the battery and it never cut out like it was before. And the car pulls like a train due to rectifying the boost leaks and fitting a new pcv system. Anyway I hope what I've done so far has been helpful to other members. I know I'm not a brilliant blogger about my car but what I found on this site is so much useful information about the possibilities of what causes the problem. And I hope my rectification journey is helpful to others. Thanks to everyone for all the information and advice. It's invaluable. 

[octaviavrs170]

13 hours ago, octaviavrs170 said:

Again sorry for the very late update to the thread about the shenanigans of the car. Had to wait ages on a auto electrician to look at the car. Anyway before I got him to look at the car I changed the fuel pump relay 409 and it never worked. Pump wouldn't prime. When the auto spark looked at the car the fuel pump relay from gsf was useless and he had to put a direct feed to the pump and bang the bottom of the tank for it to work so he diagnosed it with a faulty motor pump. Well i got a new one and changed it tonight at work and what an absolute pita of a job. Easy enough to remove but a pita to re-install. That rubber seal around the pump and the tank has to be a perfect seal. Needless to say doing it in the dark ain't a good idea. However eventually got it in and it wouldn't start. Turns out the multiplug to the pump is damaged as it's unbelievably brittle. It connects ok but the "tang" that helps secure the plug to the pump is damaged so the connector sits on the plug but loose. So now going to get the auto spark back out to fix that. Car is running good but very lumpy on idle revs. Sounds like its missing. Sits about 800rpm and lumpy. So going to check the coils for correct fitment tomorrow and contact the auto spark again to fix the multiplug but apart from that I'm so glad the car is back on the road. I ran the car for a good 30 mins to help recharge the battery and it never cut out like it was before. And the car pulls like a train due to rectifying the boost leaks and fitting a new pcv system. Anyway I hope what I've done so far has been helpful to other members. I know I'm not a brilliant blogger about my car but what I found on this site is so much useful information about the possibilities of what causes the problem. And I hope my rectification journey is helpful to others. Thanks to everyone for all the information and advice. It's invaluable. 

Had a look at why the car was running lumpy this morning. Simply the boost pipe from the inlet to the pcv check valve that I changed had come off the check valve side. Reattached and secured with a jubilee. Happy days. Car idling sweet.  

[octaviavrs170]

Well took the car a spin to petrol station and back and.......... still cutting out. Now I don't know whether this has to do with the power cable connector to the fuel pump being damaged. Not damaged in a way that the cabling itself is damaged but the plastic housing with the securing clip is. Whether this is making the connector jump and move about when driving it's possible. But yet again the throttle seems to go and the car cuts out. And when i lock it and unlock it, it starts. WTF!!!! Now what's been changed on the car is a new fuel pump, complete pcv system and hockey puck valve, checked 409 relay and replaced with new (which wasn't working) so replaced with old one which still is working, new throttle body gasket and cleaned the throttle body. It's pulls really really well now and then it cuts out. And surprise surprise no eml on dash. I'm mega browned now and I've lost patience and confidence with the car. Anyway suggestions appreciated. 

Edited 11 October, 2017 by octaviavrs170

[octaviavrs170]

This is fixed now with something called petrol. An amazing tool for fixing cars that cut out. Lol. Car is now golden. And I mean golden. So golden in fact that yesterday a civic type r decided to race me as he was being an impatient pig and he never seen me again through the big trail of dust I left him. Thank god for that. Anyway I know this car will never be without its problems but it's a machine. It's gonna break at some point. It's just whether or not I decide to keep repairing it. But for now I'm just enjoying the power plant underneath. Thanks for all the advice and information. It's been really helpful and friendly. 

[kentphil1]

Glad you got it sorted.

[octaviavrs170]

15 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

Glad you got it sorted.

Thanks kentphil1 your advice has been sweet bud as has others who have commented. 

[Guest]

your  better just running a catch can to stop that oil residue getting into your intake system and causing detonation. you can just get 19mm pcv hose and replace all that rubbish that will eventually leak again . you can also map out all that n249 n112 also n75 and de clutter the engine bay a good bit.