The handbook says 120 N/M or about 88Ft/Lbs.  It does not distinguish between steel or alloy so I take it they are both the same. 

HopeImRight

The same bolts are used for both Steel and Alloy wheels, so yes the same torque is used.

 

Thanks AG Falco.

But not your security one. Just do them nip up tight (whatever that is in NM), I just give them a firmish hand push on the wheel brace. The other 4 normal nuts I push down hard with my foot.

I would expect there to be a torque setting for both the basic nuts and the security bolt.

^^^ Plastic Nuts?

I would hope people notice plastic covers that go on after the bolts are tightened.

On ‎24‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 19:45, Headinawayoffski said:

^^^ Plastic Nuts?

I would hope people notice plastic covers that go on after the bolts are tightened.

 

Nuts, pushing feet but not for locking bolts, definitely nuts!

 

Seriously (joking I hope) maybe this is why most if not all VW Group cars that do not have wheel centre covers now have round plastic bolt covers.

 

120Nm for all bolts or nuts on VW Group cars - I always use a torque wrench on wheel bolts/nuts.

 

I think that back in the dark days when slimmer plated steel nut/bolt covers were used, some second hand cars did look like someone left these covers on at all times!

On 10/24/2017 at 19:34, aubrey said:

But not your security one. Just do them nip up tight (whatever that is in NM), I just give them a firmish hand push on the wheel brace. The other 4 normal nuts I push down hard with my foot.

I would expect there to be a torque setting for both the basic nuts and the security bolt.

The handbook quotes 120NM for ALL wheel bolts. Very bad idea to have one bolt not torqued to same figure as the rest. The security adaptor will handle the correct torque so long as you ensure that it is firmly seated onto the bolt.  

I get what you're saying. I bet if I got my torque wrench out then I'm not that wrong on the locking wheel nut. The other 4 I must be over tightening.

I've had issues before with tyre places and locking wheel nuts. I had to pay to have them cut off in the end.

I tend to use my local tyre place as I trust them with the wheels and to fit the wheels back on to the car, I always recheck tyre pressures and slacken off and re-torque all the bolts mainly so that I know what I'll be dealing with if and when I get a puncture - also it puts the responsibility back on me if some thing nasty happens, which suits me as I'm interested in my safety, my family's  safety and the safety of those I encounter while the cars are out and about.

 

Where I find an amazing tyre deal but maybe don't have any good experience or have heard bad stories about where this deal is, if the bad stories only pertain to wheel fitting torqueing, I'll just hand the wheels in and refit them myself.

I have found it useful to torque up the wheel bolts correctly with a torque wrench, then check them with my usual breaker bar and socket set up - that way I have a reasonable feel to how tight they need to be if I don't happen to have the T-R available at any time. Beware the Thick **** fitter with the ubiquitous impact wrench set to max/strip.   

I normally check with the tyre fitter that they do know the correct torque figure. They always have in the past and I've watched them torque the wheels so no probs. Interestingly, for the first time, I had 'Event Tyres' come to my home to fit a full set of new tyres last year and they were brilliant. They even left the old air from the old tyres in a bag in the boot for me to use later!  Then, they told me the correct torque value (which I already knew) and carefully proceeded to hand torque them to the correct spec. He also knew how to correctly use a torque wrench, something you cannot always rely on in my experience with some firms. I have to cringe when I see some of my mates using a torque wrench too, they just don't seem to get it and usually over torque the bolts because they don't understand you should stop torquing when it first clicks, not after two or three goes and separate extra clicks, or by putting the torque wrench back on the bolt and adding more torque until it clicks again (the bolt can move again before a correctly set torque wrench will click). Folks don't realise they may have just added another 15-25nm before the wrench lets go! The first click is the one you want. Otherwise it's not very nice for your wheel bolt and hub threads as this stretches the bolts and threads and breaks the anti corrosion anodised zinc coating on the bolts leading to corrosion. So to combat that, they add grease or anti seize, which makes everything worse and causes drastic over torquing and more stretching of bolts and threads! Makes me want to cry! 

On my Fabia the locking wheel bolts were replaced on day one when I got home.

 

If you are changing wheels yourself then try this.

Always undo the locker first and by pulling the wrench upwards not pushing down.

You can also help by pushing the locking wheel bolt key in towards the wheel bolt.

I use my other hand braced/supported by a knee to hold it firmly in place.

 

Then undo the rest but not in a clockwise/anticlockwise pattern.

If you have 5 bolts then go 1, 3, 5, 2, and 4, with 1 being your locking wheel bolt.

This is with the bolts being numbered from 1 to 5 going round from the locking bolt.

If you have 4 bolts then go 1, 3, then 2 and 4, again numbering as above, but only to 4.

 

When you put the wheel back on I will put one bolt in a wheel bolt hole and hold it in with a thumb on a socket.

Then lifting the wheel line this bolt up with the thread in the hub nearest to 12 o clock.

 

Then hand do up all the bolts in reverse order to undoing them, ending up on the locking wheel bolt.

Then torque them up in the same reverse order ending up doing the locking wheel bolt last.

 

This will help to put less strain on your locking wheel bolt key.

 

Thanks AG Falco.