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Is this pressure sensor missing a pipe?


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I havent fitted the new one yet... Wanted to do a good hard motorway trip to try and clear the values down to 0% on all readings.... but it hasnt..  Next step I think is to do some data logging... unless anyone else has any ideas.

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1 hour ago, REH17 said:

I havent fitted the new one yet... Wanted to do a good hard motorway trip to try and clear the values down to 0% on all readings.... but it hasnt..  Next step I think is to do some data logging... unless anyone else has any ideas.

You could check the wiring harness, if you have a multimeter. This sensor is a 3 wire one right?

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13 minutes ago, LightRain said:

You could check the wiring harness, if you have a multimeter. This sensor is a 3 wire one right?

 Wouldn't have a clue what Im doing with a meter .... sorry :/ 

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Just now, REH17 said:

 Wouldn't have a clue what Im doing with a meter .... sorry :/ 

If it is a 3 wire sensor then the initial tests are pretty easy, basic voltage checks done in DC mode.

Do you have a multimeter? I can give you directions if you like.

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39 minutes ago, LightRain said:

If it is a 3 wire sensor then the initial tests are pretty easy, basic voltage checks done in DC mode.

Do you have a multimeter? I can give you directions if you like.

Dont have a meter but can get access to one... I assume Im checking for the right voltage etc accross it? 

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6 hours ago, REH17 said:

Dont have a meter but can get access to one... I assume Im checking for the right voltage etc accross it? 

Yeah, voltage checks are the safest, it is very hard to damage anything when checking voltage.

Still, some things that you should be cautious of: Be careful not to short any of the pins with your probe and be sure you are in voltage mode on the meter.

 

With the key on and engine off, the sensor unplugged, on the harness side. All tests done with one test lead to chassis (ideally battery) ground.

Pin 1 (5V supply) should be a steady 5 V with no significant fluctuation, pin 2 (Ground) should be 0 V (No more than 0.01 V) and pin 3 (signal) will either be 0 or 5 V depending on circuit layout.

 

Next would be with the key on and engine off, the sensor plugged in. All tests done with one test lead to chassis (ideally battery) ground. Use a backprobe or a blunt pin slid into the back of the connector (between wire and grommet) to make contact, don't go piercing holes in your wires and remember that you may not have a good connection, so don't assume problems without double checking.

Pin 1 and pin 2 should remain as before. Pin 3 will show a sensor voltage (usually between 0.5 and 4.5 V) depending on pressure differential. Probably low voltage for low delta and vice versa. At rest with a cold engine and exhaust it will probably read 0.5 V. Sucking on the post-filter pipe (the one just hanging there) or blowing on the pre-filter pipe should give you some pressure difference so you can see sensor response.

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When I logged a regen, calculated soot mass went from 18.4g to 5.3g and measured soot mass from 7.3g to -0.3g. They seem to loosely tie in with the figures you've got.

 

This is a graph showing a ~42km drive with a regen in the middle :)

 

regen.thumb.png.f4f397a33539a8f24a6b1c02c386b001.png

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Basically, something is causing your car to create soot more quickly that I would expect. Once the active regeneration soot threshold is hit at about 18g, the regeneration process appears to be performing perfectly normally. It's just doing this much more frequently at 100-150 miles rather than 300-400 miles due to the increased soot production. Long term this will have a negative impact on the life of your DPF.

 

To be honest, I'm not convinced that 'the fix' has been properly removed...

 

Looking on your DPF app screenshots, your SW version is 9977 which did contain the fix. Your tuner may have removed the fix without changing the SW version but I'd have expected them to do a full rollback to an earlier SW version rather than trying to remove the fix.

 

I've had a quick look online and if I were you, I'd downgrade the ECU SW version as there is an earlier update to version 9815 for 03L 906 018 DA ECU's like yours. You'll need either VCP or ODIS to apply this and there is a risk of bricking the ECU as downgrades aren't support by VAG. Obviously this would also remove any remap you currently have - I don't think you're currently mapped?

 

Here is some more evidence to suggest you are running with the fix, there is a graph at ~2:48 in the youtube clip below showing pre-fix vs post-fix regeneration frequency. Your car defiantly seems to be matching the latter.

 

 

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Ok... dont suppose you know of anyone who has the capability to do so.... and by Bricking it I assume you mean rendering it useless? 

 

And as far as I knew he put the original pre update software on... so... had to trust him on that one... 

 

And what software number am I ideally looking for? 

Edited by REH17
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Correct, bricking it as in it won't function as an ECU anymore.

 

I've got a VAS5054a and ODIS-e that I've used a few times to upgrade various modules in my car including updating my ECU from SW:7100 to SW:9813. I've used it to downgrade BCM SW but not tried to downgrade an ECU yet. I'd be surprised if there were any issues though.

 

Not sure who has the right kit who's close to you as it's not something VCDS can do, it might be worth asking your tuner if they are able to flash a FRF file to downgrade you to 9815 - I can provide the file if needed.

 

If you're ever over towards Cambridgeshire/Norfolk I can take a look too, I'm a hobbyist so it would be at your own risk.

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  • 10 months later...

Seen this is an old post but was wandering if you managed to get to the bottom of your problem as I have the same issues: DPF regent at fixed intervals (130 miles) with a lot of smoke (especially when pulling away). Looked into all sorts including the elusive missing pipe :) (injectors, MAF sensor, temp sensors, pressure sensors, ) and all good. I would add that the DPF has been changed with a refurb one (cleaned) and although was less smoke to start with was still doing it at fixed low intervals. 

I’m running out of options :( 

If anyone has any ideas, Please help! 

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@bmouthcabbie - you might want to add some detail to your post, such as:

- what year is your car?

- what engine does it have, engine code?

- how many miles has it done?

- assuming it's a CR TDi, has it had the emissions fix applied?

- have you done any live logging to see how the soot figures are changing?

- why did it need a new DPF fitting, was it full of ash or some other reason?

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11 minutes ago, langers2k said:

@bmouthcabbie - you might want to add some detail to your post, such as:

- what year is your car?

- what engine does it have, engine code?

- how many miles has it done?

- assuming it's a CR TDi, has it had the emissions fix applied?

- have you done any live logging to see how the soot figures are changing?

- why did it need a new DPF fitting, was it full of ash or some other reason?

Is a 2012 Superb, 2.0 CR Tdi CFFB and done 358000 miles. 

I haven’t done the emission fix (as I heard all the bad stories and didn’t want to take a chance)

Simptoms that I had then (Jan 2018) are the same as now: fixed low mileage intervals between regen and also a lot ow white smoke. 

Havent Done any tests whilst driving to see the change in spot levels but is low after the regen and dpf pressure sensor values normal (-2 off, 7 on idle and 45-50 on 2500 revs). 

 

Edited by bmouthcabbie
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I'm not a mechanic but a quick google suggests white smoke is typically unburnt diesel.

 

I'd be tempted to log a few drives to see how the soot measured/calculated are increasing and how long/often the car is performing an active regen. If the regens look normal and you're still getting white smoke when it's not performing a regen, it would suggest it's probably an issue upstream, possibly low compression or faulty injectors?

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 14/09/2018 at 14:26, bmouthcabbie said:

Seen this is an old post but was wandering if you managed to get to the bottom of your problem as I have the same issues: DPF regent at fixed intervals (130 miles) with a lot of smoke (especially when pulling away). Looked into all sorts including the elusive missing pipe :) (injectors, MAF sensor, temp sensors, pressure sensors, ) and all good. I would add that the DPF has been changed with a refurb one (cleaned) and although was less smoke to start with was still doing it at fixed low intervals. 

I’m running out of options :( 

If anyone has any ideas, Please help! 

Yeah got it all sorted. Rolled software back to factory stamdard and works properly now. I  only put BP ultimate diesel in it and so far so good.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi @REH17I need your help. I bought a second hand VW golf, 1.6 TDi 2015. Though the engine is different, I have a serious problem with DPF, as in my case it does active regenerations every 30km. In the images below you can see that the calculated soot mass suddently jumps from 3.5g to 24g, triggering the active regen.

This thing is driving me crazy. Can you please explain how you solved the problem? From what I understood, changing the sensors did not solve the issue, but rather rolling the ECU software back to the factory did solve everything. In my case the car should not be affected by dieselgate recall but I experience this serious issue. 

WhatsApp Image 2020-02-18 at 10.17.40.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-02-18 at 10.17.50.jpeg

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1 hour ago, mimmaz said:

Hi @REH17I need your help. I bought a second hand VW golf, 1.6 TDi 2015. Though the engine is different, I have a serious problem with DPF, as in my case it does active regenerations every 30km. In the images below you can see that the calculated soot mass suddently jumps from 3.5g to 24g, triggering the active regen.

This thing is driving me crazy. Can you please explain how you solved the problem? From what I understood, changing the sensors did not solve the issue, but rather rolling the ECU software back to the factory did solve everything. In my case the car should not be affected by dieselgate recall but I experience this serious issue. 

WhatsApp Image 2020-02-18 at 10.17.40.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-02-18 at 10.17.50.jpeg

 

 

Hi mate where are you based

 

I had the car rolled back to factory ecu settings and then changed the dpf pressure sensor as this was faulty and giving wrong readings...

 

This is a 1 use item and needs to be callibrated / coded before the engine is turned back on or else it will learn the old values and be a waste of time.

 

If you are near Birmingham / Worcester area I can plug VCDS into it and have a look whats going on... 

 

Looking on screenshots.. there isnt a "measured" soot box but only a "calculated"

 

Vcds can show the "actual" soot mass in the dpf.. 

 

Id look at changing the sensor first (buy from vw as this will get you the correct one) 

 

Any more help please message me

 

Rob.

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1 minute ago, REH17 said:

 

 

Hi mate where are you based

 

I had the car rolled back to factory ecu settings and then changed the dpf pressure sensor as this was faulty and giving wrong readings...

 

This is a 1 use item and needs to be callibrated / coded before the engine is turned back on or else it will learn the old values and be a waste of time.

 

If you are near Birmingham / Worcester area I can plug VCDS into it and have a look whats going on... 

 

Looking on screenshots.. there isnt a "measured" soot box but only a "calculated"

 

Vcds can show the "actual" soot mass in the dpf.. 

 

Id look at changing the sensor first (buy from vw as this will get you the correct one) 

 

Any more help please message me

 

Rob.

 

Thank you very much. I'm from Italy, so impossible to get there (or I will get hundreds of regenerations). I indeed can buy the new sensor from VW but as you said it required adaptation, though I heard that these new sensors can autoadapt. I'm thinking to bring the car to VW center again. Last time I did, they did a check, but in my opinion they simply scanned for faulty codes in the car memory, instead of looking at real data. What's your suggestion, buy a new original sensor from VW and mount it by myself or ask everything to VW so they adapt it?

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If you ask VW to do it they should know to adapt it correctly and they would use genuine parts   

 

Id start there and see if any changes... If no change then look at EGR valve.. might be heavily blocked? Or the DPF has got to the end of its life. Whats the mileage on the car?

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 @REH17 I am living this nightmare since I bought the car one year ago, 16.000 km. Constant regenerations. I just got the car back as the warranty had to replace the engine with a new engine (crazy amount of money which I did not spend), but the issue is not solved. Incredible. Of course the sensors are still the old ones.

 

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@REH17 the car has 130.000km but DPF was completely cleaned and washed last week, before getting the car back.  It has 2 of those pressure sensor, and I got one changed 6months ago. I got a non original one from a car fixer, who did not adapt the new sensor either. I'll go to VW asap and perhaps ask to blow on the sensor pipes as well.

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29 minutes ago, mimmaz said:

@REH17 can you confirm that there was no "DPF sensor alarm" in the ECU? So the sensor was faulty but it did not trigger alarm?

 

 

I could tell it was faulty by the different readings it was giving me... There is no alarm ... The readings were too different to be normal.. plus regens were frequent.

 

If the dpf was professionally cleaned then realisticly what I would have done is fit a new sensor on and be adapted so the car knows the dpf is empty and can run / plan active regens accordingly... 

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