Dashcam Nextbase 312GW

[pinkpanther]

I'm following this with interest, as I'm also planning to fit a dash-cam to my Yeti. I had favoured a no screen type, but was attracted to the ROAV C1 (as mentioned above). Amazon reviews seem largely positive, although just watched this review, which hints at potential issues in warmer climates.

 

https://youtu.be/urv99Wrgbiw

Edited 5 December, 2017 by pinkpanther

[Expatman]

19 hours ago, pinkpanther said:

I'm following this with interest, as I'm also planning to fit a dash-cam to my Yeti. I had favoured a no screen type, but was attracted to the ROAV C1 (as mentioned above). Amazon reviews seem largely positive, although just watched this review, which hints at potential issues in warmer climates.

 

https://youtu.be/urv99Wrgbiw

Unit is specified to at least 149°F. Very unlikely to get anywhere near that in UK and most parts of Europe. A few early units were recalled and replaced because the battery expanded at high temps and popped the screen. No problems reported with redesigned units even from users in hot US States - Arizona etc. I like the internal battery because when parked the unit activates and records when the unit detects a collision (someone colliding with your parked car!).

[muddyjim]

1 hour ago, Expatman said:

Unit is specified to at least 149°F. Very unlikely to get anywhere near that in UK and most parts of Europe

 

 

This web site suggests that temperatures could get that high in the sun in the UK:

https://mocktheorytest.com/resources/how-hot-does-your-car-or-lorry-get-in-the-sun/

 

Quote

If your car is sitting in the sun and the outside temperature is 24C (75F) then within ten minutes the interior temperature will be 38C (100F) and in just half an hour it’ll be almost 50C (120F). Occasionally we’ll get a day in the low-thirties where within 15 minutes the interior of the car will be 60C (140F) and the dashboard can reach over 80C (176F).

 

[Expatman]

2 hours ago, muddyjim said:

 

 

This web site suggests that temperatures could get that high in the sun in the UK:

https://mocktheorytest.com/resources/how-hot-does-your-car-or-lorry-get-in-the-sun/

 

 

On those rare occasions they recommend removing  the camera from the windscreen and placing it somewhere shaded. It is easy to click off the mount and really in the UK days that hot are few and far between! It is a balance between having the convenience and safety of a battery powered camera that will record any collision with your car when parked and the power is "off" to the camera and the occasional need to remove the camera if the temperature is going to exceed 150F.

Edited 6 December, 2017 by Expatman

[muddyjim]

I have a Lidl dashcam fitted behind (in front of?) the mirror. I cut a 2x3" square of black plastic sheet with a small hole in it (for the lens to see through) and stuck it to the front of the camera - primarily to make it less conspicuous, but it also keeps the direct sun off it. I've never had any problems with overheating.

 

Jim

[Expatman]

11 hours ago, muddyjim said:

I have a Lidl dashcam fitted behind (in front of?) the mirror. I cut a 2x3" square of black plastic sheet with a small hole in it (for the lens to see through) and stuck it to the front of the camera - primarily to make it less conspicuous, but it also keeps the direct sun off it. I've never had any problems with overheating.

 

Jim

The reported problem is not with the camera but with the battery, the battery can overheat and shorten it's life. There have been NO reported cases of the battery damaging the camera or causing any damage.

Most cameras don't have batteries to maintain video protection of the car when power to the camera is switched off for long periods. In the UK there are very, very few days when temperatures could cause a problem. On those few days the makers recommend removing the camera when parked for long periods and putting it in the shade.

It's whether you think it's worth the effort to remove the camera on those few occasions to get full parking video protection every other day.

[muddyjim]

Yep I fully understand what you are saying, my point is that the shield I fitted probably helps to prevent any potential heat  problems when its in direct sunlight. The battery in my camera still keeps its charge, even having been through a couple of winters and summers.

Edited 7 December, 2017 by muddyjim

[pinkpanther]

I'd initially discounted battery powered devices (in favour of capacitor equipped cameras) but agree we aren't likely to see such sustained high temps on the UK.

 

A work colleague had a battery failure in a Blackvue system, which was attributed to exposure to high temperatures damaging the Lithium battery.  The battery was a unit specific item and no generic alternatives were available, leading to a very high cost to replace (just outside warranty!).

 

Whilst I'm by no means an expert on the subject my research has led me to conclude a capacitor powered device may be more suitable for permanent mounting. I'd then look to a "power magic" type wiring loom to manage power demand/camera shutdown etc.

Edited 8 December, 2017 by pinkpanther

[Carlodiesel]

Hi pp, have you looked at this one?     

 

I have had mine for over a year with no problems at all.

Just a thought, you might like to consider.

 

For around £57 its good value.

Edited 8 December, 2017 by Carlodiesel

[pinkpanther]

1 minute ago, Carlodiesel said:

Hi pp, have you looked at this one?     

 

I have had mine for over a year with no problems at all.

Just a thought, you might like to consider.

Many thanks - I'd pretty much decided on either this one, or the Anker ROAV C1 mentioned above.

 

I did initially want something smaller (without a screen), which offered dual (front & rear) camera capability, but have now decided either the VIOFO or Anker units will suffice.

[Expatman]

They are both excellent units. The advantage with the Anker unit is that even when you are parked and (presumably) the power is "off" then it will record any incident that activates it's G force detector - in simple terms anyone bumping your car! it can do that because it's internal battery has sufficient power to operate the camera. Capacitor cams don't have that capability unless they are permanently wired to a live outlet with all the battery problems that will cause.

It really is a case of whether you think the "parked" video system is worth having and the only time my car was hit was when it was parked so to me it is worthwhile. 

Incidentally the Anker C1 Pro is now available from Amazon at less than £100, the Pro version has GPS and a higher resolution camera.

[pinkpanther]

2 hours ago, Expatman said:

They are both excellent units. The advantage with the Anker unit is that even when you are parked and (presumably) the power is "off" then it will record any incident that activates it's G force detector - in simple terms anyone bumping your car! it can do that because it's internal battery has sufficient power to operate the camera. Capacitor cams don't have that capability unless they are permanently wired to a live outlet with all the battery problems that will cause.

It really is a case of whether you think the "parked" video system is worth having and the only time my car was hit was when it was parked so to me it is worthwhile. 

Incidentally the Anker C1 Pro is now available from Amazon at less than £100, the Pro version has GPS and a higher resolution camera.

I think I may avoid the GPS version, so as to lessen the chance of (self) incriminating speed related issues

[Expatman]

7 hours ago, pinkpanther said:

I think I may avoid the GPS version, so as to lessen the chance of (self) incriminating speed related issues

You can turn the speed recording off in the set up menu. GPS then just confirms your location. That's the way I will set it!

[Expatman]

Anyone hard wired a dash cam and used the rear wiper fuse? I read some reviews that say it is simple and fuse box lid fits back on without problems; then other reviews say that the piggyback fuse prevents the fuse box lid clipping back on and the lid won't close and looks tatty.

Are there different standard piggyback fuses? Can't see any low profile versions on line anywhere.

[Llanigraham]

There are different ones. You want one where both fused outlets are at right angles to the spade connectors.

[Expatman]

11 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:

There are different ones. You want one where both fused outlets are at right angles to the spade connectors.

Any idea where I could buy such a thing. All the ones I can find look the same with both fuses "on top of each other" at 90° to the spade prongs.

Thanks

Edited 13 December, 2017 by Expatman

[Llanigraham]

Right angles is 90 degrees to the spade connectors!

[graham47]

1 hour ago, Expatman said:

Any idea where I could buy such a thing. All the ones I can find look the same with both fuses "on top of each other" at 90° to the spade prongs.

Thanks

 

Plenty on a well known auction site .....

[Expatman]

1 hour ago, graham47 said:

 

Plenty on a well known auction site .....

Yes, but they are all at right angles to the blades AND both fuses are on the same side so the fuse holder is 2 fuses thick. Do you mean that there are piggyback fuses where the fuse holders are on opposite sides, a T arrangement? If so please direct me to them. Thanks

[graham47]

Yes, that’s the correct type... one is for the (original) rear wiper fuse, one for the new (dashcam) fuse.

At least, that’s the type I used.

[Expatman]

28 minutes ago, graham47 said:

Yes, that’s the correct type... one is for the (original) rear wiper fuse, one for the new (dashcam) fuse.

At least, that’s the type I used.

Okay - thanks and did the fuse box lid clip back on normally? The piggyback fuse holder I have bought was from the auction site and there were dozens to choose from - all looked identical - so I got one which had  a 5 amp and a 10 amp fuse as well as a fuse removal tool and a spare earth plug.

[muddyjim]

This is what I bought a couple of years ago - it fitted fine, and the lid clips on without any problems:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322911751665

 

Jim

[Expatman]

2 minutes ago, muddyjim said:

This is what I bought a couple of years ago - it fitted fine, and the lid clips on without any problems:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322911751665

 

Jim

That looks just like the one I have bought. I assume you fitted it in the rear wiper fuse position? That seems favourite on here.

[graham47]

Yes, all went back as before, even with the cig lighter adapter in there.

I bought a 2 amp fuse and also used the original 15 amp fuse.

There’s already a fuse removal tool in the fuse box lid.  Cig lighter adapter had both +ve and -ve leads.

one connected to piggy back, -ve to convenient earth.

[Expatman]

Just now, graham47 said:

Yes, all went back as before, even with the cig lighter adapter in there.

I bought a 2 amp fuse and also used the original 15 amp fuse.

There’s already a fuse removal tool in the fuse box lid.  Cig lighter adapter had both +ve and -ve leads.

one connected to piggy back, -ve to convenient earth.

I've got 2 options - 1. is to use a 12V to USB transformer sold for dash cams and 2. is to use a cigarette lighter and plug the dash cams supplied cable into that. It looks easier to use option 1 because I already have the USB transformer and necessary cabling to fit the dash cam.