ok, as you wish, it was a easier for me to leave the cig connector in place and get a female adapter to connect it to.  That’s what all the other posters seemed to do.

Edited 13 December, 20178 yr by graham47

Is there plenty of room to conceal the cigarette socket? Where did you put it, in the fusebox or behind the A pillar cover? 

Why not just get the hardwire kit which piggy backs into the existing fuse box?

 

You'd struggle to get the cig connector behind the trim for the A Pillar and not advisable if you have airbags curtains.

If you go for the hardwire kit. Remove the A pillar trim and fuse box cover. Use a stiff wire or wire coat hanger with a slight bend on it to  follow the wires down the A pillar and into the dash board. Wiggle it through until it reaches the opening near the fuse box. Attached the USB side of the wiring kit to the stiff wire/hanger and gently pull through to the A Pillar opening. Remove from the stiff wire and pull through to the headling. If you use a bicycle tyre lever to gentle open the headlining you can push the wire in there as you move the lever towards the mirror. Only pull through enough to reach the dash cam, any excess can be wrapped up and tucked out of sight within the dash. Piggy back the fuse connection to rear wiper. Check all is working before refitting trim. A Pillar trim recesses into the dash first, line up the clips and just you hand to push them home. Replace fuse box cover and admire the nice neat job you've done.  

I found that a cigarette lighter socket fitted quite easily behind the bar the fuse board is fixed to. Fitted a ziptie around it to make it extra secure.

 

The linked piggybacks are for the extra small/micro fuses. I used the same but for the normal sized ones and the cover fits perfectly normally.

1 hour ago, CWARD said:

If you go for the hardwire kit. Remove the A pillar trim and fuse box cover. Use a stiff wire or wire coat hanger with a slight bend on it to  follow the wires down the A pillar and into the dash board. Wiggle it through until it reaches the opening near the fuse box. Attached the USB side of the wiring kit to the stiff wire/hanger and gently pull through to the A Pillar opening. Remove from the stiff wire and pull through to the headling. If you use a bicycle tyre lever to gentle open the headlining you can push the wire in there as you move the lever towards the mirror. Only pull through enough to reach the dash cam, any excess can be wrapped up and tucked out of sight within the dash. Piggy back the fuse connection to rear wiper. Check all is working before refitting trim. A Pillar trim recesses into the dash first, line up the clips and just you hand to push them home. Replace fuse box cover and admire the nice neat job you've done.  

So was the USB transformer mounted behind the A pillar or in the fusebox?

If you get the Nextbase hard wire kit the transformer, which is only about 3x2x1cm, will be closer to the terminal end so won't reach up to the A Pillar.

 

 

If you've not bought it yet I have a couple in the garage that were removed from our cars when we dropped the Nextbase 512 cameras in favour of the Garmin ones. You can have them for the price of postage.

Edited 14 December, 20178 yr by CWARD

16 minutes ago, CWARD said:

If you get the Nextbase hard wire kit the transformer, which is only about 3x2x1cm, will be closer to the terminal end so won't reach up to the A Pillar.

 

 

If you've not bought it yet I have a couple in the garage that were removed from our cars when we dropped the Nextbase 512 cameras in favour of the Garmin ones. You can have them for the price of postage.

Thanks but the DashCam I have has a micro USB connection, Nextbase use a mini USB I think.

I have a transformer, looks like the Nextbase unit but with micro fitting.

Will see how I get on.

The same hardwire kit is used on most of their models.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nextbase-Car-Camera-Hard-Wire/dp/B00XHYSQAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513248011&sr=8-1&keywords=nextbase+hardwire+kit

 

If you have a hardwire kit already it probably be the same as the Nextbase tends to be rebranded generic Chinese kit so the fitting will be as above.

I have bought a hardwire kit with 90 degree micro USB connector, Nextbase kit has mini USB connector so won't work with my Roav C1 Pro dash cam. 

Only difference I can see between the Nextbase kit and the one I have is that on mine there is an in-line fuse between the transformer and the connector to the piggyback fuse. I think the in-line fuse is 3 amp so not sure what function it serves if I put a 3 amp fuse on the piggyback fuseholder. Wires are longer than I need from transformer to earth and piggyback fuse in fusebox, anyone know if it would be problem if I simply shorten the wires and in so doing cut off the in-line fuse?  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0756T9DQ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for any input.

 

Shortening the earth wire shouldn’t be a problem but why not just tidy the positive up and leave them as  is ?

Why make problems for yourself.

16 minutes ago, graham47 said:

Shortening the earth wire shouldn’t be a problem but why not just tidy the positive up and leave them as  is ?

Why make problems for yourself.

Yes, can do that but I wondered why there was an in line fuse when it would be connected to a fused piggyback? 

Probably designed to be spliced into an existing live wire, hence the need for an inline fuse. I’d shorten the wires, cutting out the inline fuse. If anything goes wrong it’s less to check and those glass fuses are a pain. 

41 minutes ago, CWARD said:

Probably designed to be spliced into an existing live wire, hence the need for an inline fuse. I’d shorten the wires, cutting out the inline fuse. If anything goes wrong it’s less to check and those glass fuses are a pain. 

This glass fuse is soldered into the live wire so if it ever "blew" I am not sure how to replace it. 

Could it have any other purpose which I would compromise by cutting it out?

Nope. The fuse only breaks the continuity to prevent an overload, the exact same as the piggy back fuse will do but you can change that should you need to. 

1 hour ago, CWARD said:

Nope. The fuse only breaks the continuity to prevent an overload, the exact same as the piggy back fuse will do but you can change that should you need to. 

Okay, that's what I thought so I will cut out the in-line fuse and use a 3 amp fuse on the piggyback. it will be a much neater installation without all the excess wire as well. I have an aversion to loads of wire bundled up to take up the excess, maybe just me but I like "neat" installations!

On 14/12/2017 at 09:36, Llanigraham said:

I found that a cigarette lighter socket fitted quite easily behind the bar the fuse board is fixed to. Fitted a ziptie around it to make it extra secure.

 

See what you mean, having looked under the fusebox cover I see there is plenty of room to install a "cigarette lighter socket". The Road C1 Pro dash cam came with a 12V socket plug-in USB unit so have decided to use that  with a cigarette socket and piggyback fuse off rear wiper terminal. 

Returned transformer for refund.