The Mrs has now done over 108,000 miles on the original rear discs of her Yeti 110 front drive car and decided it was time to replace them.

The Skoda dealer Robinsons in Norwich have just quoted £255 for new genuine discs and rear brake pads. Is that over the top.

Have been thinking at this price I could take them off and buy a new pair on the internet but just wondering how easily do they come off having been there since 2011 dry  assembled ? Will they be well and truly corroded on and if so which is the best way to remove them.

Also any particular brand to go for and do the original discs fitted outlast the cheaper ones on the internet?

 

Many thanks in advance for any views on the subject.

 

FlyingBrick

The rear discs are harder to replace than the front as a tool is needed to wind the piston back in.
If the screws come out OK there should not be a problem removing them after getting the callipers off.

Why not go to your local Motor Factor and buy the discs and pads rather than on the Internet, you will know you have the correct ones and the same price maybe less and you will know they are not snide / copy / fake branded discs and pads.  There are lots around.

I paid £209 to have the rear discs & pads done on my 140 four and a half years ago so £235 doesn't sound too far out.  £72 of that was labour - so probably not much over an hour, if that?  But then this would have been someone who knew what he was doing (better than me, anyway) and had the right kit to hand.  Being somewhat cash rich and time poor, I don't begrudge paying someone to do stuff for me that would take me longer to do and basically just be dirty and get me annoyed.  I realise that other people may enjoy that sort of thing!

pistons can be wound back in using a suitably sized 'g' clamp, used this technique on the rear discs of my marlin, the rear end of which is off an xr4

30 minutes ago, Frenchtone said:

pistons can be wound back in using a suitably sized 'g' clamp, used this technique on the rear discs of my marlin, the rear end of which is off an xr4

How did you hold back the other when turning the piston back in?

the 2 halves of the caliper unit can be opened up using a robust screwdriver, that the allows the unit off the disc and then as i recall the 2 halves split allowing the floppy foot of the clamp to sit on the piston and the solid foot to sit on a solid piece of the casting, then the piston can be wound back in, its a little hazy as its over 2 years ago when i did it preparing the marlin for its french mot test

^^^ Try the same on a Yeti,  it not being a Merlin.    Or maybe better not as just winding back using the correct tool is just so easy.

its not a merlin , if twas magic might work!  - MARLIN

Sounds fishy.     Sorry mobile phone sometimes changes words as typed. 

You can get a caliper wind-back tool for under £15, which rotates the piston at the same time as pushing it back into the caliper. Makes sense to just use the right tool and get it done quickly and easily.

Frenchtone - I don't understand your comments about splitting the caliper and using a G-clamp. As far as I know the Yeti caliper is one piece that can't be split, and using a G-clamp won't apply the necessary rotation to the piston to wind it in ?

 

The tricky part about changing the rear discs on mine was removing the rear caliper carriers, as the disc can't be removed with them in situ. They are held on with two M14 12 spline socket-headed bolts, which are done up very tight and are quite hard to get to. Not only will you need to buy the right spline bit, but you'll probably need a decent length bar to get enough force, and I had to raise the rear of mine up pretty high to be able to fit the bar under and pull on it.

This is on a 170 4x4 though - if the 110 has smaller discs you may well be able to remove discs without taking the caliper carriers off, which will vastly simplify things. With a wind-back tool it should be a straightforward job.

 

Only other issue could be if the disc is stuck onto the hub. If so, you'll need to whack it off with a big hammer, however suitable whacking points are in short supply if the caliper carrier is still in place and the rest of the disc is covered by the heatshield....

Thanks chaps will phone around a few more places first and get the silly Skoda/Audi prices for their new discs for the 110 first.

I do have the wind back tool as I used it to change the rear pads a few years ago by myself without any problems. It was just the thought of finding that the disc had corroded on and whacking it with a mallet then not coming off and left with a distorted rear disc and cannot drive it from the home to a garage if needed.

MOT is not due until the end of May so there is no panic just yet.

To date every time the Yeti has gone into a garage I have had to check it out and find a nut or bolt missing plus no general cleaning/greasing of components including a charge for a fuel filter that was not done.

 

FlyingBrick

K100RS, DIY, if you can change the pads on your own I don't doubt your ability to give 1 hefty whack on the disc, it will come off.

Just make sure you have the splined tool & its all good to go.

And reassembly with copper-slip.

Edited 21 April, 20188 yr by Carlodiesel

Ok, because of other problems with my calipers I took em off and split them into the 2 halves as I needed to replace the guide pins -- I went further than would be needed for a simple replacement!