So I have just purchased my first Skoda, a Fabia VRS SE. On the drive home I have noticed a couple of problems I hope you guys can help with. Sometimes on idle when in traffic or when starting the revs can rise to 1500. I pull away and it can all go back to normal, then randomly happen again at standstill.  It can also be a bit hesitant and jerky when on slight throttle or coming off and going back on slowly.

 

I dont think the heater fan is that powerful even at 4, when I put the car into reverse and slowly move the fan speed increases to what I would expect. So seems a bit weird. The tracking was done by the garage but it’s still off when driving so not sure if they did a bad job or suspension bushes are worn?

 

Finally on the motorway if I turn the wheel to the right slightly I hear a weird noise, it’s hard to describe but sounds like squeaking and it’s quite high pitch.

 

Any ideas would be great.

 

EDIT the garage replaced the alternator as well as the pulley was making noise not sure if this has anything to do with it.

Edited 21 April, 20188 yr by Rojer

The heater fan appearing to speed up in reverse is normal. The car automatically selects recirculation mode to prevent exhaust fumes being sucked into the car when reversing. If the fan output is weak at other settings it could be that the cabin filter needs changing. Running with a blocked cabin filter can cause the heater fan resistor to fail as it is mounted inside the heater casing and relies on a good flow of air to cool it.

 

Here's a video of how to change the filter...

 

 

Edited 21 April, 20188 yr by TMB

Thank you, good to know it’s normal. I will look into the pollen filter. I think I have made some investigation into the problems.

 

I believe the Rev/throttle issue is to do with the pedal switch because when the revs are high I can touch the pedal a little and will lower or I can pull the pedal towards me and it drops.

 

The tracking I’ll need to look into, the high pitch noise seems to be brake disc related. Could be the start of the wheel bearing to fail or sticky Caliper or disc etc.

 

 

This morning I took the throttle pedal out. I took off the casing and it was perfectly clean. I have it a wipe over and put it back together and still the same so guess I need a replacement. When I purchase a new one do I need to do anything with vagcom or is it just plug and play?

 

Also took off the boost pipe and the ASV was full of carbon and bit of oil so will need a clean, also noticed the rear doors will need resealing.

 

Is it normal that the turbo whistles quite alot? Worried about oil in the boost pipe as that would point to turbo seals?

14 minutes ago, Rojer said:

Is it normal that the turbo whistles quite alot? Worried about oil in the boost pipe as that would point to turbo seals?

 

The only turbo car with no oil in the boost pipes is a brand new one, all turbo seals weep slightly and over the life of the car that amounts to a lot of oil.

 

Take off the TIP and visually check the impeller if you're worried about the whistling, it could also be a very slight boost leak, the pipe joints tends to leak as they wear with age and vibration.

Throttle pedal should work without doing anything, I have heard that some people had to do a throttle body adaptation but I doubt it would be necessary in most cases.

Just to provide an update, all the above problems have been resolved apart from the squeaking. The noise is coming from the front right wheel/brake. When i jacked it up today and rotated the wheel back and forth it made a squealing which sounds like brakes. Took the wheel off and the sliders are free the pads are evenly worn and have grease on the ends and on the backs. Cleaned it all up anyway and put it back together but still does the same. It seems to be rotational, but it can come and go depending on steering lock and the type of road or load on the suspension. If the noise appear and i put a little right lock on or touch the brakes it goes away. It's very odd and if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

2 hours ago, Rojer said:

Just to provide an update, all the above problems have been resolved apart from the squeaking. The noise is coming from the front right wheel/brake. When i jacked it up today and rotated the wheel back and forth it made a squealing which sounds like brakes. Took the wheel off and the sliders are free the pads are evenly worn and have grease on the ends and on the backs. Cleaned it all up anyway and put it back together but still does the same. It seems to be rotational, but it can come and go depending on steering lock and the type of road or load on the suspension. If the noise appear and i put a little right lock on or touch the brakes it goes away. It's very odd and if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

 

Probably a small stone caught between the disc guard and the disc, impossible to see, try flexing the guard all the way around to see if it will fall out.

If you suspect boost leaks causing the whistling take the front bumper off and take off the intercooler ducting. Quite common for it to ruv through the intercooler in the corners.

16 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Probably a small stone caught between the disc guard and the disc, impossible to see, try flexing the guard all the way around to see if it will fall out.

 Very good idea, I will have to have another further look. Otherwise I'll just live with it until I have to change the pads and discs.

 

@stevobeavo I don't think the car has a boost leak as it pulls really well and the intercooler actually looks pretty new tbh. I'm more upset that since it's been to unit 18 the egr is leaking after they modified it. I wouldn't go back there again very disappointed with them.

8 hours ago, Rojer said:

 

@stevobeavo I don't think the car has a boost leak as it pulls really well and the intercooler actually looks pretty new tbh. I'm more upset that since it's been to unit 18 the egr is leaking after they modified it. I wouldn't go back there again very disappointed with them.

My old vRS pulled very well and showed no signs of a boost leaks. Only takes 15 minutes to remove the bumper so worth a check.

 

I'd avoid unit 18 like the plague now. Had nothing but problems with them. Which is a shame as I've been using them for 8 years. 

On 03/06/2018 at 19:41, stevobeavo said:

My old vRS pulled very well and showed no signs of a boost leaks. Only takes 15 minutes to remove the bumper so worth a check.

 

I'd avoid unit 18 like the plague now. Had nothing but problems with them. Which is a shame as I've been using them for 8 years. 

 

To test for leaks do you pressure the system with a bung and then a hand pump on it? Do you know the size of bung required?

 

Also i am starting on repairing my leaky rear doors and instead of making a new thread thought i would use this. I have removed the door card and plan to drill the rivets out, replace the foam with some closed cell foam i have at home then re-rivet back on.

 

* When removing the carrier do i have to take the window our first?

* Are these the correct rivets http://www.skodaparts.com/product/fabia-door-panel-rivet-2000-2007-23645

* Is there anything i should do/check/replace whilst the carrier is off to save me removing again?

 

 

Rear carrier removal requires the removal of an awkward plastic roll pin thingy that attaches to the window.

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/body/body_work/rear_doorsliding_doorwing_doorscentral_locking/rear_door/removing_and_installing_assembly_carrier/

 

 

The easiest way to do it is to leave the carriers on and just seal round them with Plumbers Gold or similar.

 

And yes those are the rivets.

Edited 7 June, 20188 yr by TMB

I can see why people just seal the door with sealant, as the more i look into it the bigger headache it becomes. I would like to do a proper job and make it OEM by removing the rivets and carrier, but i'll have a think.

What a shame to hear about Unit 18. I was just about to book my VRS in for a full service. I have used them for years but not at the new location. I  did reccomend a colleague to use them but he ran into problems with them when he tried to book in as they never called him back.

 

Anyway I'm gladyou are working through your niggles. I love my 2005 model and have run it for 10 trouble free years. 

Last night i decided to investigate some problems with the car. I went down the sealant route in the end. I will test later to see if it's sorted it. I did lift up the carpet behind the drivers seat to make sure no water has soaked through or anything, luckily it's all dry. The car just has a musky smell where it has been damp so need to give the carpet a scrub.

 

I have an intermittent problem, whilst driving it will sometimes lock and then unlock itself. Also the window switch when pressed lightly for a small open/close sometimes nothing happens for a couple seconds then it works again. Not sure if the two issues are related and its just the switch unit as a whole? How can i test this to find out exactly what the problem is?

 

Then i jacked the car up, wheel off and couldn't find anything wrong with the brakes at all, i cleaned up the disc and gave everything a through inspection. I just think the disc is past it to be honest so will change them shortly.

 

I wanted to investigate the potential of boost leaks. So i took the arch liner out and was greeted with the attached pictures. I gave it a quick clean up and then inspected the boost pipes for movement. The biggest offender is the top intercooler hose, it had a small click as i pushed it in a bit more, the other pipes have some movement 3-5mm maybe and i guess if oil/fluid can get out then so can air. Driving the car afterwards I'm not sure if it was the placebo affect or if the car generally felt better, it seemed to sit at higher MPG on the instant trip and the idle was a little better.

 

What do people do to resolve the loose pipes? Is it a case of replacing just the o-rings and the metal clamps or is it new pipes? What aftermarket solutions are there? I don't want to fit a big front mount, want to keep the standard cooler etc.

 

Finally had a very quick look at the EGR leak, i can see that its leaking from the bottom. Is there a gasket in between the EGR and intake manifold? I was worried about taking it off without the right parts to replace. Looking at a parts diagram it looks like it just has an o-ring on the inside, can anyone confirm? I take it the leak is because the o-ring is missing or failed.

 

 

 

 

When I had a problem with the turbo hose coupler shorting out the turbo I used a mikalor clamp with a groove cut in it to allow the raised part of the spring to go though.

 

Still on the car and ran it on multiple track days with out another issue.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 12 June, 20188 yr by stevobeavo
Add pictures

For the central locking and window problem check for broken wires inside the rubber driver's door bellows. Have a good look as the wires can appear to be OK but can still be broken inside the insulation. One of mine was broken but it was more obvious as it was completely snapped. This caused my car to randomly lock and unlock itself as the wires were randomly touching each other with movement of the car. The window switches are also rubbish and may need replacing - about £35 for a new switch unit from Skoda.

 

 

Edited 12 June, 20188 yr by TMB

I think i am about ready to just take the car to a field and burn it lol. I just seem to be having problem after problem with this car.

 

To resolve the brakes i will be replacing them, also the car is about 100 miles away from its service so will have to sort that at the same time. The window/unlocking seems to be OK hasn't happened for a while, but i have just left the switch loose in the door in case it does happen again and i need to check the wires etc.

 

The latest problems i seem to have is the car feels slow, the engine isn't revving as freely or as quickly before. The throttle pedal actually feels heavy which is weird for something not being connected to anything physically. I can feel the turbo but it just feels like the whole car is being held back. Also get some shudder when accelerating hard after 2k for about 1-2 seconds, not sure if that is related or the clutch and flywheel is on the way out. It can also take longer to start sometimes now, sometimes under light throttle the car has a little hesitation and you can feel it jerk in first or second gear. I had a look at the boost pipes and although a little movement as before, nothing has come off from what i could see on the top side. 

 

There are no lights on the dash, but haven't scanned it for codes (i only have a little hand held cheap code reader anyways so not sure what i will get). Saw my mate on the way to work this morning and went for a cheeky over take, hit the brakes and the pedal was rock solid and not much braking happening. 

 

I have noticed that the pipe from my EGR to the vacuum box is missing, not sure if that relates to the EGR modifications that Unit18 done or if i need it regardless if the EGR has been modified.

 

I will be trying the Mr Muscle turbo treatment tomorrow and then just go from there, but if anyone has any other suggestions please let me know. 

 

 

Just been down to the car on my lunch break to check a few bits out. Firstly i found the vacuum pipe closest to the engine with the one way valve had a crack and had tape around it...Rang TPS and got one coming tomorrow. I then got my hand on the turbo actuator and it moved about a 1cm or so, it felt like it had a lot of resistance and sponginess, but it did move. I will still clean it as i feel like it should move better than that.

 

Can someone please tell me if there is a gasket between the EGR and the intake manifold? The guy i spoke to at TPS said yes, but didn't seem confident, i guess i will find out once i get down there otherwise im not sure why it would leak if it isn't supposed to have one.

O-ring item 2 here?

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/1/131-131045/

12 minutes ago, Wino said:

O-ring item 2 here?

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2007-453/1/131-131045/

 

I have just spoken to TPS again and got him to send me the diagrams for the intake and the EGR as you just did and doesn't look like a gasket between the intake and EGR so i have ordered 2 and 4 in the image you posted.

 

These are all the parts i have ordered:

 

* Front pads & discs

* Oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter and fuel filter

* EGR gaskets 

* Brake vacuum pipe

* Oil filler cap seal

 

Total for all those bits are £230 + VAT im not in the trade anymore so not much discount for me, but least i have the peace of mind its genuine parts. I may get a new window switch also when im down there. Hopefully all of this with the Mr Muscle turbo treatment will resolve most of the issues otherwise im selling and going back to Japanese cars lol.

Today has been a fun day! 

 

Started off by collecting the parts from TPS got half way home and the guy didn't give me the engine oil, i decided to go to Halfords rather than drive all the way back as he hadn't charged me for it and i CBA with the queue in Euro's on a Saturday.

 

Got home and got cracking, carried out all the service work nice and easy. Swapped the brake vacuum pipe, didn't realize it was the whole pipe from the servo so that was nice. Changed the front pads and discs as well, i love working with genuine parts makes life so much easier. Carried out the Mr Muscle treatment on the turbo and after a short first drive feels a lot better, i did loose my locking wheel nut key on the test drive tho :(

 

Here is where we get to the fun part. I needed to fix the EGR leak and this only happened after Unit18 had modified it, i wasn't prepared for what i saw when i took it off. As you can see it's very much broken and bodged! Needless to say i was extremely irate, unfortunately Unit18 are not open on a weekend so i was unable to express my displeasure with them, that will have to wait until Monday. I will be ordering a proper Darkside delete to replace this monstrosity as it not sealing properly is probably contributing to some of the issues i was having! Safe to say i won't be taking my car to them again and would worn anyone off them.

 

 

Did you leave your locking wheel nut key on one of the wheel nuts and it flew off?

Edited 16 June, 20188 yr by TMB

35 minutes ago, TMB said:

Did you leave your locking wheel nut key on one of the wheel nuts and it flew off?

Yup ha, I forgot it was on and did a quick test drive and now it's gone lol.