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Buying a 2001 Fabia Elegance 1.4 16 valve experience


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Rear wheel bearing is an absolute doddle too. Just undo the hub nut and pull the bearing unit off with your hand. Pop the new unit on and torque up a new hub nut.

 

Hub nut torque 70 Nm +30°

 

 

Edited by TMB
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I'm feeling braver by the minute. I think you have persuaded me to have a go at this. The rest of the car works OK  (engine and box) and it has had moderately regular servicing. 

 

Like I said..my biggest problem is locating  my car tools as its decades since some of them have been used....and 30 + years since I built my Dutton Phaeton kit car...:biggrin: (yes I'm that old:tongueout:)

 

 

Edited by alfalincs
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50 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

You really don't need many tools to work on these, unlike your Dutton, Fabias are all metric. B)

 

I'm not quite Fred Flintstone you know...;)

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Front wheel bearings are a bugger to do correctly....many people (inc dealers) bodge it & you end up with "brinneling" of the bearings...basically you end up pressing the balls into the bearing surface which wears it out as you have just created masses of ball shaped dimples..

 

I had all the suspension off, rear beam off, front wishbones, brake systems, including fitting a whole new ABS unit.....only thing I got the main dealer to do was the timing belt & front bearings...as I don't have the engine hoist/cross bar to support the engine or the correct press & tools for the bearing...

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3 hours ago, TMB said:

Rear wheel bearing is an absolute doddle too. Just undo the hub nut and pull the bearing unit off with your hand. Pop the new unit on and torque up a new hub nut.

 

Hub nut torque 70 Nm +30°

 

 

I've found my old hub puller...just in case you are lulling me into a false sense of security..:biggrin:.....and as long as I can get the damn drum off as well. Anyway the bearing is ordered so we are off, and I've found my axle stands and my spring compressors (for the front job). If you could see the state of my " it was a garage once.." you'd be amazed I found anything.

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17 hours ago, alfalincs said:

I've found my old hub puller...just in case you are lulling me into a false sense of security..:biggrin:.....and as long as I can get the damn drum off as well. Anyway the bearing is ordered so we are off, and I've found my axle stands and my spring compressors (for the front job). If you could see the state of my " it was a garage once.." you'd be amazed I found anything.

 

Haha :tongueout: I did both my rear bearings recently and both just slid off by hand :thumbup:

 

What brand of bearings have you ordered? I got FAG ones.

 

 

 

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Edited by TMB
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19 hours ago, alfalincs said:

I'm feeling braver by the minute. I think you have persuaded me to have a go at this. The rest of the car works OK  (engine and box) and it has had moderately regular servicing. 

 

Like I said..my biggest problem is locating  my car tools as its decades since some of them have been used....and 30 + years since I built my Dutton Phaeton kit car...:biggrin: (yes I'm that old:tongueout:)

 

 

Aha - another ex Dutton owner LOL

I built a Malaga/B+ back in the late 70's (Malaga front end with a B+ rear) so more or less the same as a Phaeton,BRG,1600cc Ford X-Flow engine - went like greased weasel 5hit :biggrin:

Edited by YS53
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Timing belts are a doddle on these 1.4 16v engines. Did one yesterday for the first time in less than 3hours. Incidentally, I bought it as spares or repairs as it wouldn't start. When I got it home found the diddy belt between the 2 cams had lost half of its teeth. Replaced both of them and the tensioners & idlers etc and it started up straight away with no bent valves or any nasty noises. LUCKY ME. 

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Sorry I didn't update anything for a few days, busy with work...I went to the mechanics and here is what he has found: remote control fobs not responding, electric windows working erratically, rear wiper blade motor dead, driver's back windows override button not working, air conditioning system faulty(needs a regas), boot door only opens from inside the car, CD player not original and faulty, petrol flap mechanism faulty, auxiliary belt squeaky and worn, tyre thread close to legal limit.  I see skidpan taking sides here  :tongueout:, so I will address that first: my issue is not with the car: it is what it is. A 17 year old car. Of course it will have a few things wrong with it that will need to be addressed. Like the particulate filter being old and smelly and needing a new one. What I take issue with, however, is people being dishonest and not mentioning faults they knew about, some of them rather major. Take me, for example: I am selling a Corsa with a fried head gasket. Do I advertise it as: 'losing coolant'? 'It is overheating'? 'It doesn't go as it used to'? Or do I just spell it out loud and clear: 'THE HEAD GASKET IS BLOWN'? I just like being honest with people, hence I do not like others overlooking serious faults, while sleeping easy at night, at my expense. Period. I don't mind having to pay for something I knew of and I had been told about. But I don't like paying for other people's lies. Bottom line is: this guy came across as an honest man, selling a car that belonged to his late father. That in itself was put there to mislead genuine people into thinking they are buying something. The man is a con man that used even his late father's good name to sell something that was not advertised at is should have been. The guy is as low as low can get. Who on God's earth would trash his father's name like that, I ask you? THAT is what I take issue with, dear Sirs, not the condition of the car. 

 

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SKODA FABIA 1.4 16v 100hp ELEGANCE 5 DOOR MODEL
 
VERY NICE SKODA FABIA WITH THE MORE POWERFUL BUT STILL VERY ECONOMICAL 1.4 16v PETROL ENGINE.
 
 CAR JUST PASSED THE NEW M.O.T TODAY SO HAS A FULL MOT UNTIL APRIL 2019. 
 
THIS CAR HAS A FULLY STAMPED SERVICE BOOK PLUS 4 RECENT TYRES ON NICE ALLOYS AND HAS ALL THE EXTRAS SUCH AS HEATED SEATS, CLIMATE CONTROL ETC. GENUINE MILEAGE OF ONLY 84K
 
CAR DRIVES VERY WELL AND IS IN GOOD CONDITION APART FROM A FEW SCRATCHES HERE AND THERE BUT IT WILL NEED A CLUTCH AT SOME POINT IN THE FUTURE SO IS BEING SOLD AS SPARES OR REPAIRS ONLY
 
This was my late Fathers car so the vehicle is well known to me.
 
FEEL FREE TO CALL TO VIEW 07*** ******
NO WARRANTY GIVEN OR IMPLIED
NO PAYPAL PAYMENTS PLEASE. 
NO V.A.T TO ADD.
 
 
Edited by john999boy
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That is the original eBay advert and since we are talking about being true and honest, let us do a bit of naming and shaming too: the man's name is [redacted]. Selling his late father's car, a dear old man, or at least that is what I was lead to believe. In case you ever come across him, beware. He is not what he would like you to think he is. 

I bought the car from him because I thought I was buying a car from a genuine man, with a 100% 409 positive feedback account. Not for much longer, if he fails to meet me halfway with the expense bill. I don't expect him to pay for all the repairs, but I do expect him to agree to paying some of the money back. For that money is blood money, not honestly earned.

Edited by john999boy
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Unfortunately i'm with @TMB it clearly states it is for spares repairs only and you paid £500 odd which isnt much at all. Those faults are all minor and what id expect of a £500 car. 4 recent tyres doesn't state new either so I'd assume part worns. Im not taking sides of the guy who sold it, he sounds like he knew there were other issues, but by putting that clause 'spares or repair' he's covering himself for pretty much anything which may be wrong with the car, implying its for Spare parts or Repairs only. If you'd paid first then went to get it you'd be in a position to ask for the money back, but as you handed over the money after examining a car sold as 'spares or repair' you've got almost no comeback. Its a lesson you've learnt the hard way unfortunately. Id be buying brand new if i was so fussed about everything working exactly right.

 

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On 13/05/2018 at 18:12, TMB said:

^ Brinneling. I learned a new thing there. Very interesting :-)

I think that the correct term is Bruneling after a very famous proper engineers!

 

In light weight servo systems Bruneling is serious **** - as I suppose it is anywhere but with high speed spin motors in small gyros it can cause a standing output which for a system with rate gyros can get very annoying!

 

Likewise in roll mechanisms you end up with striction due to sticking balls and hunting to correct positions!

Edited by rum4mo
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12 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

I think that the correct term is Bruneling after a very famous proper engineers!

 

 

No it isn't...go look it up...

 

I did spell it incorrectly...but it still sounds the same & its not after an engineer, its after a hardness scale & test....

 

I did materials testing at collage as part of my cert...

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I called eBay and they have informed me that they can't offer any buyer protection for cars and real estate sold on eBay. They said that all they could do is investigate the case and put restrictions on the account, potentially leading to a permanent suspension. I also contacted the seller via eBay contact system and text messages. He insisted he had no knowledge of the faults and that he only knew about the clutch, after taking the car to the MOT. Yeah, right, after admitting driving the car himself and having intimate knowledge of it.

I have given him ample opportunity to come clean and refund some of the money, to meet me towards the costs arisen from his undisclosing the faults. He declined, so in the end, I left a negative feedback, taking his rating to 98% from 100%. 

Oh well, I have learned my lesson. I thought it could not go wrong with this one, on the basis of:

1. The seller being a mature seller(in his early 50's)

2. Him being a proper Englishman(assumption, mother of all screw-ups, indeed)

3. The car belonging to his late father

4. Him being the director of an established and apparently reputable charity and recycling centre

 

On the basis of probability, I thought I stood more chances of buying something legit and as advertised. This just goes to show you can't make educated guesses these days anymore. Oh well, like some of you have suggested, just take the loss, repair the car and move on. 

 

On a more positive note, I have managed to secure the clutch replacement for £220(labor£140, clutch £80), which is very decent for London. The mechanic will even throw in the cabin filter and auxiliary belt replacements labor costs for free. 

 

The only gripe remaining is that my wife has discovered mould infestation inside the car. I do remember the front windows being lowered by about 2 inches when I went to pick up the car. But I just assumed they had been left open that day, in order to aid ventilation to the interior, after it had been sat for a while. Now that I think of it, they could have been left like that for some time, allowing rain to come in and mould to develop. When we did wash the inside of the car, we did notice some small dark mould dots on the front doors interior panelling(with it being a beige colour, it showed). After spending about 30 min in the car, my wife, who happens to have an allergic rhinitis, told me she had problems breathing. Her condition always flares in mouldy environments. So there, another 'bonus' thrown in by good old Andy. Bless him. I told him about this, but he just ignored my texts. Anyone knows of a good mould remedy?

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It'll be the rear and possibly front door carriers leaking. Happens to all fabias at some point and an easy fix as long as you buy some new door card clips in preparation.

Thats a rather cheap price for a clutch, i'm guessing it doesn't include replacing all the necessary bolts that should be done on these when the clutch is done.

 

 

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1 minute ago, JWvrs25 said:

Thats a rather cheap price for a clutch, i'm guessing it doesn't include replacing all the necessary bolts that should be done on these when the clutch is done.

 

Yeah, it's the petrol engine dude, the flywheel isn't coming off so no new bolts needed, petrol clutch kits are often very cheap, no slave to replace either.

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Just now, sepulchrave said:

 

Yeah, it's the petrol engine dude, the flywheel isn't coming off so no new bolts needed, petrol clutch kits are often very cheap, no slave to replace either.

Was referring to the driveshaft and engine mount bolts. Only saying as I know someone who didnt replace lower mount bolts and one snapped not long after the clutch change, ended up scrapping car as the cost of drilling out and retapping was more than cars value. Just saying id be wanting to make sure its all done correctly to avoid any issues as broken bolts/damaged threads arent much fun

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1 minute ago, JWvrs25 said:

Was referring to the driveshaft and engine mount bolts. Only saying as I know someone who didnt replace lower mount bolts and one snapped not long after the clutch change, ended up scrapping car as the cost of drilling out and retapping was more than cars value. Just saying id be wanting to make sure its all done correctly to avoid any issues as broken bolts/damaged threads arent much fun

 

I would say this was caused by over tightening the lower mount bolt, new bolts can be over tightened by idiots just as easily as old bolts. The culprit is usually a cretin with a rattle gun!

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