So I bought a vRS mk1 about a week ago after some serious bad luck with cars and it's been running fine since aside from the turbo letting off before gaining pressure again during wide open throttle. During a drive tonight however I noticed that when pulling away, not in a spirited manner or anything, just during normal driving, the throttle will just cut completely. The engine won't cut out but there'll be no power until I release the throttle completely and reapply it again. I've also noticed the idle is rough after a couple of minutes of sitting running but it won't stall out. I've had a look for relevant threads but no one seems to get the exact problem I have and I'm completely stumped. I've tried running with and without the air con on (I'm presuming it's a fly by wire throttle) to see if it's the throttle actuator (feel free to crucify me if that's not the right name) not getting enough voltage but it's seemed to have no effect. Just that was something I'd read about with regards to these types of throttles. I know it's a long read but any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Have a check of the throttle pdeal itself. It's not uncommon for water to find it's way through the bulk head and drip onto the plug on top of the pedal and cause corrosion to the connection. If it gets really bad the EPC light generally becomes illuminated on the dash.

It's a little akward to get to but the pedal can be removed and replaced without too much hassle.

I'll check that mate thanks. More immediate problem though is that it's now refused to start 

Have you run a diagnostics scan on it?
 

I havent yet, largely because I don't have access to a diagnostics plug in at the minute, if I can get the damn thing running again I have a friend a short drive away who'd lend me one haha. I'm curious to see what skeletons are in the closet of this old beast. I'll be back here with my findings.

Whereabouts are you?

Do you hear the fuel pump priming when you open the drivers door? You should hear a high pitched whine from the rear seats of the car. If not, it could potentially be the fuel pump relay 409 located under your steering wheel. You should also check your fuse panel for fuse 43 just incase ots blown. Probs best to find a local briski whos willing to help you out and you can try his/her relay to see if thats your starting issue.

 

If it doesnt make a difference, then it could be your actual fuel pump. Could be the explaination for theottle hesitation? Good luck sourcing the issue.

Rustynuts, not too far off Newcastle mate.

 

Adz_VRS anything electrical is completely dead. First sign was that the central locking didn't work from the key and there's nothing on the dash so I'm back to basics, cleaning battery connections, swapping the battery etc. I wouldn't have thought it'd be a bad fuel pump because it still had just as much power when you put the hammer down the last time I drove it. It could be something as innocuous as something running all night. Not sure what though as I always check for anything like that. Failing that I have absolutely no idea but I will check all the fuses mate, thanks.

Edited 10 June, 20188 yr by AndyB365
Incomplete response

Ah, too far from me to be any help I'm afraid.

It's alright haha, I've got a few petrol heads at work who might be able to help yet. If I'm lucky one might have an OBD II plug in.

 

Here's to hoping I'll not regret plugging it in 

Ah electrical gremlins, i can sypathise completely with you. Battling a few myself with my bardge lol. I think mines looking like a new ecu due to wiring damage - sad times. I hope you manage to quickly find the source of your drain matey.

Oh Christ I hope I don't have to go as far as that. I really don't want the chew on of having to get harnesses out and rewiring stuff, I've only had the car ten days haha. Good luck man and yeah I'm sure I'll find it eventually, one way or another.

Lack of electrical power could possibly be due to the black box on top of the battery. It's common for the lead on the left of it (as you look at it from the front of the car) to get hot and melt the connection. When it goes, things stop working.

I'll check that as well when i pop the bonnet this afternoon. Thanks for all the replies guys.

Right, so I've managed to fix the throttle guys, it seemed to disappear after switching the battery. I'm just waiting and running it to see if the alternator was the real culprit but it's been started an run a few times and no problems yet.

The plot thickens.... The throttle problem is back and along with it I found out why the battery was completely flat the other day. Locked the car and went inside. Came out ten minutes later to find that the brake lights were on?! Tapped the brake pedal after unlocking it and they went off again. Been checking it periodically over the last couple of hours and they've not come back on again. Seems as though I may have bought some electrical gremlins with the car. I'm wondering if these issues are connected with the brake switch being reliant on pedal position and the throttle cutting out at low revs.... I'll be out to check the pedals and their connections tomorrow.

@AndyB365 - That does make some sort of sense: By design these cars kill the throttle when the brakes are applied. I'd consider getting a new genuine brake light switch.

If that's the case then that'll be it. Its usually just after braking upon reapplication of the throttle that it'll cut out. Might've just solved it there Ken!

3 hours ago, AndyB365 said:

If that's the case then that'll be it. Its usually just after braking upon reapplication of the throttle that it'll cut out. Might've just solved it there Ken!

In that case I've got an alternative idea, which wouldn't throw a fault code. The brake pedal pivot may be worn, and causing it to stick sometimes.

I'm about to stick it on the drive and have a look now, I'll let you know what I find. I'll no doubt have more questions when I come back haha

Right so I've got someone to check and even the tiniest bit of pressure on the brake pedal turns the brake lights on and if it's released slowly they'll stick on. Anyone have any idea how I can adjust the switch to come on a little further in the travel of the pedal? Without any prior knowledge of it in kind of blind here haha

It's fixed! In the end all I did was bend the little metal bracket that holds the brake light switch down so it met the brake pedal a bit more firmly. It only moved by about a millimeter or two but it's enough to stop it activating when the pedal is off. Would never have thought in a million years that that would be the cause of the throttle cutting out and the battery going flat over night. A little purple £7 switch under the dash.

 

Thanks for all your replies guys, I wouldn't have had a chance to figure this all out by myself.

Edited 14 June, 20188 yr by AndyB365

As I recall there was something about the brake switch which needed setting correctly on installation. Something about a ratchet and the plunger needed to be pulled right out prior to fitting the switch. Then when the brake pedal was released back up to connect with the switch, it pushed the plunger in to the correct setting. Perhaps someone ballsed up the setting of the switch?

Potentially, but if it's been in there since the production of the car I'm tempted to say that the little plastic stick that gets pressed when the brake pedal is up has worn down to the point where this happens. I don't know what tolerances they need though. It is entirely possible to accidentally kick that bracket however and bend it upwards. Don't know what the previous owner was like but she's left some glaring problems with it so I'd say she could well be careless enough to belt that as well.

Well, that's the thing. I don't think bending the bracket would be the way to fix it. Remove the switch and reset it, reinstall it and it should recalibrate itself to the correct position.