Hi all

 

Just found my drivers side windows has stopped working.

Was working on Wednesday evening, I used it coming through the M6 toll. Was in for service Thursday and when my wife used it yesterday and found it stopped working.

Is there any way this windows could have been turned off or some other "likely suspect" which may stop it working?

Anything I can test, such as a fuse?

Don't think it's the switch as the windows does not operate from the key fob either, all others do.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

I had something similar after a service, I assumed they had left the drivers window down and disconnected battery and reconnected which messed the cars Brain.

 

My fix was to disconnect battery for about half hour and reconnect and it reset itself.

 

It also resets other sensors so don’t be alarmed by dash lights as once you drive the car a short distance they start to disappear.

 

Thanks 999, I'll give that a try, is there likely to be any issues disconnecting the battery?  I'm thinking of radio losing code or worse.

no issues as long as the radio is the original. no code to enter.

5 hours ago, superbdreams said:

no issues as long as the radio is the original. no code to enter.

Thanks, I tried yesterday but unfortunately it didn't help.

Or try this.....

A common fault on the Superb is a failure of the wiring loom as it passes from the inside the front wing , between the drivers door hinges and into the inner section of the door.

 

There is a rubber boot / gator that protects the wires.

 

Depending on the age and mileage of the car the wires inside become brittle and break.

 

It is a relatively simple job to open the rubber boot up and to check the condition of the wires.

 

Although this fault does usually reveal itself in other ways, including the door not locking and a lack of switch illumination etc.

First prize Silver, the loom had failed in the snorkel between the body and door, completely coincidental with the service.

Sorted now. 

It's easy to forget how often you use the drivers side window, I just can't get by without it.

Result, I'm guessing you're now a dab hand at soldering (something I've never quite managed!) 

On 26/06/2018 at 11:23, silver1011 said:

Result, I'm guessing you're now a dab hand at soldering (something I've never quite managed!) 

I am reasonable with a soldering iron anyhow but in this case decided to get the loom changed. I needed it quickly and need it to work reliably, I figured soldering it is just going to move the stress further down the wire and it would break again sooner rather than later.

May I ask. How much was a new loom?

22 hours ago, Danny 57 said:

May I ask. How much was a new loom?

£100 +VAT

I've just had this on a 2013 Superb with c120k on the clock.

Virtually all the wires were showing conductor but the only two to break were the twisted pair.

The were noticeably shorter than the rest - maybe because of twisting?

I was able to get the plug off the door lock by releasing the fixing bolts and letting it hang down and push back enabling a screwdriver to release the locking tab.

Loom is £108 + vat but as TPS not running counters had to get a local garage to order it and gave them £10 for their effort.

A real design fault I'm afraid.

It would seem that failure is at about this mileage regardless of model.

I've just had this on a 2013 Superb with c120k on the clock.

Virtually all the wires were showing conductor but the only two to break were the twisted pair.

The were noticeably shorter than the rest - maybe because of twisting?

I was able to get the plug off the door lock by releasing the fixing bolts and letting it hang down and push back enabling a screwdriver to release the locking tab.

Loom is £108 + vat but as TPS not running counters had to get a local garage to order it and gave them £10 for their effort.

A real design fault I'm afraid.

It would seem that failure is at about this mileage regardless of model.

For what it's worth I did take the loudspeaker out (which takes a little while to sort the back end if the rivets but I think I could have managed without.

 

 

Further update on connection to lock mechanism.

It is possible to get to the connector through a small hole that's covered in foam disc.

If the lock mechanism is loosened and the lower screw is removed it can be moved away enough to get a screwdriver in to release the connector clip and there's enough room to reattach it.

Definitely don't need to take out the loudspeaker.

Further update on connection to lock mechanism.

It is possible to get to the connector through a small hole that's covered in foam disc.

If the lock mechanism is loosened and the lower screw is removed it can be moved away enough to get a screwdriver in to release the connector clip and there's enough room to reattach it.

Definitely don't need to take out the loudspeaker.

 

After replacing the loom I now have a completely clear VCDS scan.

In the 2 years I've had the car its had a canbus fault saying only one wire working - so one of the twisted pair must have been gone for ages and the second going is what finally did for 'everything' on the driver's side.

 

I'm amazed that it's just these tiny wires that allow the whole door ECU to work.

I ran into problems with the drivers window, after removing Heko wind deflectors. A small piece had broken off and got wedged in the channel, which made the window bounce back.

Fix was a mix of the above.

First reset window in down position, then 'help up' the window with 2nd pair of hands, reset in upper position by operating the switch a few times quickly, then finally disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.