Hi all . Long story , I recently had a pair of console bushes replaced on my vrs . I gave the person doing it a new bolt . ( I only gave him 1 as the passenger side one has had a rethread at some point and is a different pitch ) . 

Ive recently lent the car to the mrs . And she has said it pulls right under braking and when on power . So I get under neath car to have a look . And too my surprise. The new bikt has been put into the wrong side . So I’m assuming he’s crossthreaded it into console .. I’m guessing the bold isn’t tight enough allowing the wishbone to move . 

So im planning on changing the whole console at home . Has anyone done this on the floor ?? And any pointers ?? 

Regards Tony 

It's definitely doable on the floor.

 

Here's what they look like still attached to the subframe, which of course you will not need to remove.

 

26 minutes ago, TMB said:

It's definitely doable on the floor.

 

Here's what they look like still attached to the subframe, which of course you will not need to remove.

 

Do you know if the front vertical bolt is accessible without removing the strut ?? I think there’s 4 bolts on console ? Then I’m guessing bottom ball joint and the bolt that goes through the wishbone . And 2 holding on antiroll bar ?? 

It's ages since I did one and can't quite remember about the vertical bolt. The rest of what you say is correct I think, apart from the bolt count.

I think there are six bolts in the console - two go in the side of the upright bit...

 

EDIT: Scratch that, I think the two holes in the upright bits are for the anti-roll bar.

 

Edited 31 August, 20187 yr by TMB

If you look at the top bolt here it looks like you can get it with the strut in place...

 

Ideally, you want to spray paint  'witness marks' onto the chassis around the points where the console meets the bodywork. There's a lot of play in the console holes for those two bolts, which is how the subframe is aligned at build time. So you want to put the new console back in exactly the same position relative to the chassis, before tightening these two bolts. Otherwise you may introduce new problems with camber/caster/toe if it goes back in a different position.

 

It may be an idea to jack up both sides of the front of the car evenly, so there's less twisting of the body which might lead to errors with this positioning too.

Edited 31 August, 20187 yr by Wino

This might be helpful, haven't read through it though: https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/repairing_front_axle/removing_and_installing_the_console/