Skoda Octavia 2.0tdi, elegance, after a couple of weeks once you park the car and then start it back shortly, it does start but the steering lock freezes, esp light comes on with a quite a few other lights. Some time it takes a few minutes + attempts of starting and comes back to normal but sometime it can take like a half an hour or so .. it happened after I changed the timing belt and water pump of the car but if something was not done properly then surely the problem would happen again and again

Check battery voltage. Your battery may be low on charge or even on its way out.

6 hours ago, xman said:

Check battery voltage. Your battery may be low on charge or even on its way out.

I will check that but if the battery was low then would it not do it at all times

Weak battery just needs momentary dip in volts to stop certain things working. That you have several warning lights points to battery as possibility.

 

If after starting and steering freeze, let the engine fast idle for a minute or two to get some charge on the battery before you switch off and try again.

 

Diagnostic scan of error codes will give a clearer picture of what the problem is.

By fast idle you mean. Giving it some acceleration. I do do that and after a couple of tries it unlockes the steering wheel

I have tested the battery and that is fine 

9 minutes ago, Waqar96 said:

I have tested the battery and that is fine 

 

How?

 

Any fault codes in any systems?

20 hours ago, Waqar96 said:

By fast idle you mean. Giving it some acceleration. I do do that and after a couple of tries it unlockes the steering wheel

That definitely sounds like the battery management is shutting down a high power consumer (the power steering) until the battery charge state is higher after a boost from the alternator.

 

Which suggests one of two things:

- the battery has a failing cell (or cells) which isn't holding charge; or

- the battery has been changed and you haven't re-coded the battery management system so it still thinks you have a knackered battery fitted.

 

BTW checking a battery is OK needs to be done with a discharge tester, measuring voltage isn't enough.

This problem only started when I changed the timing belt and water pump. And it happens in a while like after a couple of weeks. Did the guy had to reprogramme after the timing belt

11 minutes ago, Waqar96 said:

 Did the guy had to reprogramme after the timing belt

 

Assuming thats a question, no.

Update guys,

 

been tested the battery which which was low but then he goes the alternator is not charging it. So was about to change the Alternator but mechanic goes it is not that. This time the power steering was not working at all and sign on the dash for steering, esp and start stop. Go it diagnostic and it showed steering column sensor which means it’s the steering rack. Called AA who did diagnostic and then said either ecu or the steering senor which can’t be changed alone so it is the steering rack. One thing I forgot to mention in the diagnostics it was saying under power to the sensor. At this time I have been driving it around for a couple of hours but no luck then it turn it off when I go to the last garage for his opinion and the power steering starts to work and after a quick drive around all the lights go off and start stop etc works .

 

confused what to change alternator or the steering pump 

I didn't realise your car has stop/start - your car is a micro hybrid!

 

Alternator in stop start cars are smart alternators and operates a micro hybrid charging scheme under control from the ECU. So doesn't always charge depending on several scenarios.

 

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/

 

 

Sounds as if your battery State Of Charge has got out of kilter with the SOC stored in the ecu. Either the battery is dying, or you/someone has charged or jump started or drained the battery not using the ground point so the ECU didnt see it and has an incorrect SOC. Or its just drifted with age and need recalibrating.

 

You need to fully charge the battery, take care how you connect the charger, the negative lead of the charger needs to be connected to the special ground tab on the bulkhead and NOT the negative terminal of the battery. Its all explained in the owners manual. Fully charged will take >24 hours.

 

That or a new battery may fix everything.

 

On vehicles with the START/STOP system, the pole terminal of the charger must
not be connected directly to the negative terminal of the vehicle battery, but only
to the engine earth » page 244, Jump-starting in vehicles with the START-STOP
system.
 

 

Edited 29 September, 20187 yr by xman

5 minutes ago, xman said:

Sounds as if your battery State Of Charge has got out of kilter with the SOC stored in the ecu. Either the battery is dying, or you/someone has charged or jump started or drained the battery not using the ground point so the ECU didnt see it and has an incorrect SOC. Or its just drifted with age and need recalibrating.

Sounds like you've come to a similar conclusion as I did 4 days ago... but with an alternative cause.

 

On 25/09/2018 at 08:43, PetrolDave said:

Which suggests one of two things:

- the battery has a failing cell (or cells) which isn't holding charge; or

- the battery has been changed and you haven't re-coded the battery management system so it still thinks you have a knackered battery fitted.

 

As petroldave says, if you get a new battery, it must be coded correctly. Has anyone changed the battery in the past? Check the battery fitted is an EFB or an AGM battery, this will be on the top of the battery in large letters EFB or E or AGM . There will also be a square 2d barcode with coding information.

 

Cheap old style batteries cannot be used as they stop working and give problems after a few weeks, which is what maybe the case here.

 

Only change EFB for EFB and AGM for AGM. Coding is necessary if the battery is not identical to the original factory fit. Coding requires VCDS or there is talk that OBD11 pro can do it, though better check if thats true. Coding at a dealer is an expensive cash cow.

 

First give your existing battery a full charge, use a good quality charger, say CTEK, suitable for the battery, EFB or AGM. See if that clears the steering problem 

Edited 29 September, 20187 yr by xman

1 hour ago, xman said:

Coding is necessary if the battery is not identical to the original factory fit.

Even if the nw battery is identical in every respect you still need to change the serial number entry in the battery management system - to force it to relearn the new battery characteristics, otherwise it will assume you still have the old (knackered?) battery and continue to shed loads.

I have not jump started the car. Also have not changed the battery. Checked the battery, first it was low reading but checked it twice after it was showing normal readings. I’m really confused here 

15 hours ago, Waqar96 said:

Checked the battery, first it was low reading but checked it twice after it was showing normal readings.

In what way have you checked the battery?

 

Just voltage, or with a discharge tester that checks the internal resistance too?

 

If just voltage then I still think you probably have a dying battery with one or more high internal resistance cells - if with a discharge tester then maybe you have something staying on that is draining the battery.

These lights are on Dash board but codes to come power steering rack.  Check battery power seems okay. New power steering rack is costing around £1200

Advice given, your choice

We have fully boosted the battery for 24 hours and it the power steering is receiveing the correct battery voltage but after checking on machine it is still

showing steering rack. Would it be possible if someone could ring me on 0774032575 Waqar to discuss