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4 Wheel Drive and Jacking


Zeanie

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Hi,

 

Due to a brake pad issue I would like to jack the car up and put it into 1st gear and have the front wheel rotate slowly under tick over power so I can see where it is catching. Previously on my older 2 wheel drive cars this was easy to just jack the front or rear of the car (with axle stands)  and then put the car into gear.

 

However, with the 4 wheel drive on the yeti is this actually possible or if I jack the front up onto axle stands will the rear wheels rotate meaning I shall have to put axle stands under the rear of the yeti as well.

 

The reason for wanting to do this is because when the wheel is being driven, occasional the front nearside wheel (piston side) brake pad is touching the outer rim of the brake disc. It will touch and then stay in this noisy position for around 15 seconds then it stops making the noise and is completely silent (ie normal) until the next time it happens x miles or minutes  later

 

Thanks.

 

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Probably safer to jack the car up, remove the brake pads and clean and grease them. Pay special attention to the tangs that slide in the caliper. That should stop the issue. I wouldn't even run a 2 wheel drive car on axle stands never mind one that has intelligent 4 wheel drive.

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8 minutes ago, WFM said:

Probably safer to jack the car up, remove the brake pads and clean and grease them. Pay special attention to the tangs that slide in the caliper. That should stop the issue.

 

These are brand new pads currently on the car. I put these in 3 days ago to see if having new pads would stop the awful sound but alas it did not. Everything looked fine when I swapped the pads, the spring clips are all seated.

 

With only myself doing this I don't have help. Also trying to rotate the wheel assembly by hand is quiet hard so need to get the wheel to slowly rotate by having it in 1st gear

Edited by Zeanie
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Still wouldn't advise running the wheels on stands, bit dangerous and if the Haldex cuts in and drives the back wheels it'll be expensive at the very least. Try taking the wheel off, put the studs back in the holes and rotate the hub with a bar whilst watching to see where the pad catches. Operate the brakes then see if the caliper comes off enough to allow the pad to move back off the disc.

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Doing at you suggest, front wheels only up, will put drive straight to the rear wheels, and the car will fall off the stands! That is exactly why you cannot do the MOT brake test on the rollers.
And even putting it on 4 axles stands isn't that safe as they are not designed for that type of use.

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On 28/09/2018 at 10:07, Zeanie said:

 

These are brand new pads currently on the car. I put these in 3 days ago to see if having new pads would stop the awful sound but alas it did not. Everything looked fine when I swapped the pads, the spring clips are all seated.

 

With only myself doing this I don't have help. Also trying to rotate the wheel assembly by hand is quiet hard so need to get the wheel to slowly rotate by having it in 1st gear

 

Did you fit new discs, or re-use the old ones ?

 

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In my experience this is corrosion on the discs not allowing enough space for the new unworn pads when fully retracted such as a ridge of corrosion at the disc inner or outer edge, or something stopping them coming off the disc when the brake is released, eg corrosion or deposits on the guides cylinders etc.

when the pads are new everything has to irk perfectly to clear the discs.

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Thanks for the replies.

I had a good long session trying to identify the issue and I traced it to a small stone. It was not trapped between the shield and disc but was actually stuck in one of the vents of the disc, so every time the disc rotated the stone would catch the caliper.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know you found your answer but I just wanted to add something to the Haldex drive discussion.

 

The Haldex disengages automatically when the handbrake is engaged, so no drive to rear wheels with the handbrake pulled.

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