Updates of owning a vrs crtdi - few problems I've had so far

[Kris82]

So I do around 20-22'000 miles a year and my vrs is now on 169,000 miles.

So this is a little heads up on what you 'might' expect after 120,000 miles ish...

 

1st - wear and tear problem (around 130,000miles) was car going into limp mode, turn car on and off would reset it but after the usual 3 boost attempts it would go back to limp mode.

It was the turbo actuator, the very small bit of rubber that seals the actuator rod had split. Found this out by blowing 'vape' (yes vape from mates ecig) into the vacuum pipe and was able to keep blowing showing signs actuator was not sealed.

Sorted that £135.00 from VW and £30 to fit.

 

2nd - Was starting to lose 1st gear, couldn't select it at all on some occasions. Obviously thought owwww **** my gear box going, as I knew the clutch was fine. Turns out in the end after a lot of research. a plastic clip that stops one of the linkage arms to the gear box had flew off, causing the arm to not hold on to the gear selector correctly and couldn't push the selector into 1st.  £5 this cost to fix £5!!!! 

 

3rd -problem (around 148,000 miles) hesitation on acceleration especially after starting car. This one baffled me as there was no codes, turns out it was fuel filter housing leaking ever so slightly but enough to hesitate car. New filter, seal, a good clean and properly fitting lid (seamed to be slightly warped) back on sorted.

 

4th - problem, engine coolant light on (red) signs of low coolant. New this wasn't the case as I check engine bay and fluids a lot!

Turns out it was just the prongs needed a good scrape/clean with a flat head screwdriver. Prongs build up with 'grime' over the years. 

 

 5th - and latest problem, I had the P2015 code. (swirlflaps position sensor), so I purchased the 'Dieselgeeks) aluminium part for £15, quite difficult to fit on the CRTDI plastic manifold but got there in the end.

 

Some of these faults would have cost my £££££'s at the dealers! 

My faults all seem to be wear and tear related so far and not so much bad luck or faulty parts.

A little patience with the help from google, forums, youtube is all you need sometimes. 

As I said just a heads up of what you 'might' come accross owning a VRS CR TDI similar.

 

 

Edited 9 October, 2018 by Kris82

[AndyLeeds]

Hi Kris

 

Great timing as I am about to purchase an estate CR TDI Mk2 approaching 100k miles.  Was back here to look for a "buyers guide" or what to watch out for thread and stumbled upon this...

 

I am expecting my annual mileage to be half of yours and allegedly the example I'm looking at has had the actuator replaced already so that's a positive, but was after input from yourself or others for what other homework to do before spending.  Any other thoughts?  What did you scrutinise assuming you have not owned from forecourt?

 

I have a promise of dealer FSH up until 95k and cam/water belt done at the same but doesn't feel right to rely wholly on that as a guarantee for anything.

 

Advice much appreciated...

[dilksie]

Good info there. My car is is just about to hit 130k and have had no problems so far (I bought it around 18 months ago with 106k on the clocks) other than non working aircon due to a holed condenser. 

[Kris82]

2 hours ago, AndyLeeds said:

Hi Kris

 

Great timing as I am about to purchase an estate CR TDI Mk2 approaching 100k miles.  Was back here to look for a "buyers guide" or what to watch out for thread and stumbled upon this...

 

I am expecting my annual mileage to be half of yours and allegedly the example I'm looking at has had the actuator replaced already so that's a positive, but was after input from yourself or others for what other homework to do before spending.  Any other thoughts?  What did you scrutinise assuming you have not owned from forecourt?

 

I have a promise of dealer FSH up until 95k and cam/water belt done at the same but doesn't feel right to rely wholly on that as a guarantee for anything.

 

Advice much appreciated...

I bought mine with 'apparently' full dealer service history also with cam belt just done.

The only problem I noticed straight away was sticking back calliper (will add to thread), this is very very common on vag's. So I was expecting this problem so should anyone with high mileage vag cars. (I would put my house on that!!)

Ive had the same problem on 3 vag cars.

So if your gonna test drive car, perhaps try parking on hill and put handbrake on, see if it rolls and check for rusty/pitted rear discs. 

Once you've been for test drive feel the back wheels (not the discs!), if one of them is hotter than the other you know there is some binding going on. 

Edited 9 October, 2018 by Kris82

[Nuclear_Jules]

Sticky rear calipers were a problem on my old sharan, ended up replacing them after having them unstuck many times. 

[Kris82]

Just now, Nuclear_Jules said:

Sticky rear calipers were a problem on my old sharan, ended up replacing them after having them unstuck many times. 

As above ^^^^ 

I forgot to mention this.

Changed both sides. 

[Nuclear_Jules]

Seem to remember it was the arm that is controlled by the handbrake that sticks.

[AndyLeeds]

Anyone have any fun with temperamental fault codes, central locking failures, boot leaks or other similar low priority but equally as annoying problems?

[Kris82]

6 hours ago, AndyLeeds said:

Anyone have any fun with temperamental fault codes, central locking failures, boot leaks or other similar low priority but equally as annoying problems?

Temperamental fault codes as in..?

i know the secondary coolant pump can throw up codes in very cold weather but pump actually fine.

[dilksie]

21 hours ago, dilksie said:

Good info there. My car is is just about to hit 130k and have had no problems so far (I bought it around 18 months ago with 106k on the clocks) other than non working aircon due to a holed condenser. 

 

Just remembered I have had one problem with the car - the thermostat started to play up (temps would drop when sitting at idle) around this time last year. car was coming up to its next cambelt change anyway so it made sense to have the lot changed (belt 'stat & water pump) which cured the problem