Hi all, the Skoda has been using way more fuel than usual. I can’t quote mpg as it had a problem with the clocks storing data over the last few months (which another user one here helped me with - thank you again), but to give an idea, it’s giving roughly 25 miles to £10 worth of fuel... which is way below what it used to achieve.

 

I think it has a water leak (water always needs topping up / light comes on). No engine management lights are on, although the ABS light never lights up when starting so I don’t know if some fuse has been unplugged or something? 

 

Anyway, I know to try the temperature sensor first; could someone tell me if this is the right one please?

 

 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Fabia_1.2_2005/p/car-parts/fuel-and-engine-management/engine-parts/engine-management-sensor/?223440211&1&c3611cef7471e09b65e94e391037449d1e92dd76&000572

 

 

Thanks in advance all, Paul

Edited 30 October, 20187 yr by f4t_p

Have a good look around to try to find the water leak first. It won't be causing your problem, but it's never good to be topping up regularly cos it's easy to lose track of how much antifreeze there is in the system.  Radiator thermoswitch is a common leak point, just above where the bottom hose attaches to the radiator. We've also had a leak on the plastic coolant regulator housing where it meets the engine head on our 1.2 12V. Just look for crusty pink stains anywhere as evidence of evaporated coolant.

Is yours the 6-valve or 12-valve engine version (P of HTP is red on the back for the 12V, black for 6V)?

 

With coolant temp sensors, I'd strongly advise a genuine item, but not at VW Group dealership prices.  There's always a smattering of them on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=06a919501a&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.X06a919501a+genuine.TRS0&_nkw=06a919501a+genuine&_sacat=0

 

That ECP part may be right, but it's the wrong colour in the picture and the description is wrong, but the shape is right. Par for the course with ECP, I only use them as a last resort if I need something same day.

 

What temperature does your coolant gauge show when the engine's up to temperature, and how far do you have to drive before it gets there?

Oh, and for the ABS, check the strip fuses in the fusebox above the battery (No.6 on your car, I think). If you find a cracked one, that's probably the ABS pump one, but it may well also be the case that someone has disabled the dash warning light to cover up the fact that the system isn't working.

25 miles for £10 is roughly 15mpg. Are you sure??

Saying if you pay 125.9 pence a litre or 250.9 a litre might give an idea how much petrol £10 gets you.

 

Are you getting 8 litres for a tenner, and have you ever brimmed the car and maybe driven 30 miles and then brimmed again to see how many litres are needed?

Thanks for all the help. I will buy an authentic one from eBay and get it fitted. The car is not mine (it is my partner's) so I am going on what she is telling me. It has not recorded how many miles it has done on the trip as it had a previous problem (thanks to Wino who told me how to fix it), so I am unsure as to whether it is just what the computer's fuel estimation is telling her differs very much from what she is actually getting. We put about £30 (fuel at 128.9 per litre) a week in it and she does way less than 100 miles a week. It used to cost us a lot less to run it anyhow (prior to June 2018 when fuel prices were slightly lower). . It has only started using more fuel after it went  in the garage to get sorted for the MOT (June just gone).

 

Also, fuel in at 128.9 a litre, so about 7.8 litres for that. That is very bad MPG (roughly 12 based on the 25 miles I suggested!!!). The car's computer told me there was '0' miles worth of fuel  when I put £10 worth of fuel in, and it took it up to 25 miles. We have let it run down to '0' on purpose to see what it actually does.

 

I will see how well it performs in the interim, and report back on the other questions asked.

 

Thank you again for all your help, it is muchly appreciated.

 

Paul

The 'Range' readout may not work very well or be very accurate at very low fuel levels,would be better to put a reasonable amount of fuel in and then see what mileage you get,preferably 'full' to 'full' (and noting mileage,I usually zero the trip at fill ups) using the same pump if possible,or at least the same filling station with a level forecourt and using the same filling technique (or at least - the same person doing the refuel - as we all probably do it slightly different).

I suggest that the Lambda probe might be badly sooted up, so once you've changed the CTS you should reset the ECU then take the car for a good spank up and down a motorway to burn the cat and both probes clean, you need at least 30 minutes of closed loop operation to rewrite the dynamic map.

Fantastic, thank you for all of the help, it is much appreciated.

 

I have just taken the car out, and the results are as follows:

 

Distance: 6.7 miles, town / b road driving

MPG - 37mpg computer states

Temperature: goes up to 90 degrees after 2.5 miles, and stayed at this thereafter

The expected mileage per fuel left has gone down to 15 miles now, having covered 5 yesterday to test it + the 6.7 today = 12.7 miles + 15 = a suggested 27 ish miles in total.

I can't comment on whether the computer is inaccurate with lesser fuel in, it has always been pretty good across the mileage range though.

It has a red 'P' in HTP... I am taking it this means it is a 12 valve?

I have ordered the temperature sensor and will fit tomorrow when it comes. Has anybody got an idea how to take the engine cover off? It looks like the air box is fixed to it, and there are no bolts from the top (I have seen one screw on the underside to the left)?

 

Thanks again for all your helps guys / gals, it is most appreciated.

Paul

Yep, 12 valve, should also say 12V on the engine cover I think.

 

The cover/airbox 'just' pulls vertically off; you won't break it, although it feels like you might. Usually easier to start with the back edge I find. There are three or four plastic pegs on the engine that go into rubber grommets on the airbox/cover, the rubber can be very clingy so would advise a little silicone grease on the pegs once you get it off. You will have two pipes connecting into the nearside edge of the cover, the one nearer the front is easy, just pulls off a parallel pipe stub, the rocker breather inlet one further back can be stubborn, so if it resists attempts to squeeze in the sides of the connector, just leave it on at that end, and pull it off the other end when the cover is loose.

 

It sounds like your temperature sensor and thermostat may be OK, but well worth changing the temp sensor anyway, as the clocks show 90 for a wide range of reality temperatures (like about 50 upwards!), for customer reassurance purposes.

 

The rubber grommets like yours will have are shown in this photo (not an identical airbox, but very similar):

Fantastic Wino and everybody else, thank you so much for all the help. I will update when I have the part and swap it out

No problem.