Hi everyone, been a while since iv had to post anything on here at least lol  couple months back my pickup    (1.3  136B engine) stopped on way back from work an refused to start. Being low on fuel at time I thought maybe some crud had been sucked up from the tank an as the fuel filter was due replacing I fitted a new one but still nothing. Gave distributor a clean out and it started but with a miss fire. Cleaned plugs that were tad black an once again back running again but miss fire returned after few days. Been told a set of new plugs are needed but I fitted new plugs 9 months previous. A set of Bosch super 4's. Am I right in thinking they should have lasted a bit longer ? Any help much appreciated thanks

Yes, they should last a lot longer than 9 months!

Previous plug sets on the truck an all my vehicles before have lasted longer so I know something is up lol. Its actually worse now with only way to start it is taking plugs out and cleaning them nearly every journey :(  I'm picking up new plugs today and seeing as the fouling on plugs seems petrol/oily I'm thinking about  replacing the valve stem seals? Maybe some oil is seeping past them? Before this spark plug business the truck was running spot on as usual. Anyone else on here had anything similar happen to them I'd appreciate any advice and thanks again

@Skaddypikup - The 136 (and earlier versions of that block) were never designed for multi-electrode plugs. Have you tried the correct heat grade single electrode copper core plug?

From your description the spark plugs have nothing to do with the misfire.

@KenONeill  previous set were some NGK triple electrodes that were in it when I bought it so no mate, do you have a name or part number? I'll go that route if so thanks

Does your distributor have points or does it use a hall sensor?

 

The hall sensor gave me a lot of grief in a 94 Golf. In the end I changed the distributor c/w sensor (was £30 exchange at VW back in 2005) and years of misery solved.

 

The hall sensor is available separately I expect.

 

If it doesn't have a distributor suspect the coil.

 

Edited 7 November, 20187 yr by xman

And @RicardoM  , you have given good advice previously an seem to be the Felicia Guru on here lol do you have any idea on the problem? I intend to hang on to my trucks until I'm old an grey so want to keep them going

@xman truck has hall sensor yes, I did suggest that to the garage blaming the plugs but they dismissed it. Has a tiny crack in plastic were it bolts on so that was why I asked 

13 minutes ago, Skaddypikup said:

@xman truck has hall sensor yes, I did suggest that to the garage blaming the plugs but they dismissed it. Has a tiny crack in plastic were it bolts on so that was why I asked 

 

Its possibly that then. Causes all manner of difficult starting,  refusing to start then coughing back into life etc ,when it starts failing seems to cause weak spark, eventually dies completely but can take years.

 

Edited 7 November, 20187 yr by xman

5 minutes ago, Skaddypikup said:

And @RicardoM  , you have given good advice previously an seem to be the Felicia Guru on here lol do you have any idea on the problem? I intend to hang on to my trucks until I'm old an grey so want to keep them going

No guru just try do my best. Again, from your brief description it's a spark issue. Since you have put new spark plugs, we are left with distributor, coil, and spark plug wires (in this order of probability).

Start buying a spark tester and see if there is no spark or weak spark (on one or all cylinders) when the engine doesn't start. We'll go from there.

@RicardoM - Well, I sort of do and sort of don't agree with you. The only harm that correct heat grade multi-electrode plugs can do is to your wallet. Wrong heat grade are a possible cause of oil fouling though.

 

@Skaddypikup - Dunno, but I normally buy Bosch or NGK depending on engine, and shops have applications catalogues.

This is starting to annoy me now lol got new plugs an now its just turning on the starter an doing nothing. So your aware the distributer on the truck was fitted brand new in Jan 2018, at same time I fitted new HT leads along with the previous plugs an to rule out the coil I switched the coil with my other truck to check and both work fine! 

@Skaddypikup - In which case it starts sounding like the distributor is "not fit for purpose" under UK law.

Just stood scratching my head an the missus said as we need to move the truck try the old plugs as I seem to get it going on them and it started first time. The old plugs look  shocking against the new ones. The test will be now if it starts as easy tomorrow. 

That video is  tick over on old plugs but with new ones it didn't even fire. Its been off road over a month now but sounds a little off to me 

Old fuel gone off? Try some fresh stuff

 

5 hours ago, Skaddypikup said:

This is starting to annoy me now lol got new plugs an now its just turning on the starter an doing nothing. So your aware the distributer on the truck was fitted brand new in Jan 2018, at same time I fitted new HT leads along with the previous plugs an to rule out the coil I switched the coil with my other truck to check and both work fine! 

You should have added all this info from the start. Remember we know only what you tell us. You have full access to the car 24/7 by eyes, ears, smell, and touch. The more info you share, the better. Now assuming you fitted the right spark plugs (Bosch FR7DC, NGK BKR6ES, or Champion RC9YC) with a 0.7 - 0.8 mm gap, the engine should start and should have good spark when tested with a spark tester.

 

If it still does not start, you might want to have a look at coolant temperature sensor for proper resistance. Other things you should check are all connectors, wirings, grounds for distributor and coil. Look for corrosion and integrity.

@RicardoM cheers mate. Its the truck annoying me not you lot lol. Its starting now and ticking over like normal. The only plugs they had that were a fit were super 4's again but I will change them for the type you suggested. It won't start on the new set though oddly as there are same plugs its running on the old set.

@Skaddypikup - Well, I say there's no advantage to multi-electrode plugs, because (source Gerard Sauer PhD Automotive Engineering) all they do is allow you to extend plug service intervals on engines that were designed for it. The Skoda 1.n pushrod family weren't.

 

@RicardoM - Which brand, if any, of single electrode plug do you think is best in these engines? I positively know which brand is best (better economy and/or power about half-way to new plugs time) for some other engines (and it's not always the brand made in the same nation as the car).

Sparkplug you fitted may have wrong suppressor resistance built in. Also the multiple ground electrodes generate horizontal sparks, and possibly require higher ignition voltages.

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

 

@RicardoM - Which brand, if any, of single electrode plug do you think is best in these engines? I positively know which brand is best (better economy and/or power about half-way to new plugs time) for some other engines (and it's not always the brand made in the same nation as the car). 

The brand/type I have listed are from Skoda Felicia Factory Service Manual. From those I selected NGK on my car.

Edited 8 November, 20187 yr by RicardoM

Okay back for an update, having no luck with the new bosch plugs but strangely fired on old plugs even tho previously it refused to start at all, I fitted the correct nkg plugs recommended by @RicardoM along with new HT leads and distributor and with the battery being only a month old looked good. Turned key and it started straight away. Drove for half hour, turned it off an it's not moved since. Just refuses to start , turning on starter strong but not even a stutter from combustion. Did have a whiff of petrol fumes in cabin when was moving and plugs are wet when I take them out...over fueling maybe???

2 hours ago, Skaddypikup said:

Drove for half hour, turned it off an it's not moved since. Just refuses to start , turning on starter strong but not even a stutter from combustion.

This is the point where YOU should start diagnosing for spark then fuel. I've told you several times that.

This is a good generic learning start