The rear discs are getting hot, it seems the handbrake is not disengaging fully. The cable has no slack at all, even the slightest pull brings on the handbrake.

I want to check the adjuster under the centre console. How do I get the console off please?

I've found this diagram but not in the way of what screws to undo & where they are.

I would have thought the adjustment would be done externally.......usually by reducing the effective length of the outer sheath.....or similar.

I think on my Fabia it was reached by removing the ashtray/drawer.

Interested in this too, as I think my cables need adjusting (but for the opposite reason)

19 hours ago, Urrell said:

I think on my Fabia it was reached by removing the ashtray/drawer. 

I don't mean to remove the console but the adjustment was accessed like that.

On 13/11/2018 at 09:06, Urrell said:

I think on my Fabia it was reached by removing the ashtray/drawer.

Ah you mean the tray for the rear seat occupants (Item 8 in the diagram above). I haven't had time to take a look at this but the discs were very hot to the touch by the time I'd travled the 8 miles to work this morning.

3 hours ago, vRS G60 said:

Ah you mean the tray for the rear seat occupants (Item 8 in the diagram above). I haven't had time to take a look at this but the discs were very hot to the touch by the time I'd travled the 8 miles to work this morning.

Pretty sure that was on the Fabia, with that drawer removed you could see the nut to adjust the cable where it splits into two and just enough room to get a spanner onto it.

Rear disc brakes binding are due to the caliper not floating due to corrosion. You need to strip the rear brakes and clean up all the corrosion on the caliper which stops it sliding freely. Its pretty easy to do. Remove the pads and its obvious what needs fettling to free it up. You may find the inner pad worn badly compared to the outer because of this.

 

On octavia ii you remove the rear ashtray to get to the adjuster (so item 9 or 8 on the diagram in your case).

 

Loosening the adjuster a little helps but it is not the reason/solution for the binding.

30 minutes ago, xman said:

Rear disc brakes binding are due to the caliper not floating due to corrosion. You need to strip the rear brakes and clean up all the corrosion on the caliper which stops it sliding freely. Its pretty easy to do. Remove the pads and its obvious what needs fettling to free it up. You may find the inner pad worn badly compared to the outer because of this.

 

On octavia ii you remove the rear ashtray to get to the adjuster (so item 9 or 8 on the diagram in your case).

 

Loosening the adjuster a little helps but it is not the reason/solution for the binding.

Thanks, yes the binding is either a sticking caliper on it's slider, sticking piston, or sticking handbrake mechanism on the caliper.

The handbrake cables are thick and not forgiving so you don’t get slack in them. As Xman stated it’s probably the caliper that is binding and clean up and grease required at worst corroded pistons. If the later it’s cheaper to replace the seals and piston yourself otherwise using a garage they’ll replace the caliper. 

How many clicks do you get at the handbrake lever?

2 hours ago, CWARD said:

How many clicks do you get at the handbrake lever?

Hardly any, 3 or 4 at most. There is no slack in the cable at all. It engages the handbrake the instant you pull the lever.

3-4 clicks is the ideal. Cables don’t normally go taught on their own usually the opposite and go slack with stretch. The handbrake adjusts for pad wear by extending a screw within the caliper that pushes the piston out. 

The hand brake lever normally only needs adjusting with excessive cable stretch in wh h case the cables should be adjusted. To set the right amount of tension on the cable remove all the slack from the cable at the lever until it just starts to move the arms on the rear of the caliper. Apply the hand brake hard a few times and the arms should return back to their rest stops, if not loosen slightly  

The cables can rust in the outer sheaf but this normally makes the handbrake lever feel like it’s applying the brakes without doing so. 

If you want to fault find the problem raise the rear safely on axle stands, leave the hand brake off. Rotate the wheels and see if the brakes are binding. If they are check the rear of the caliper and see if the arm resting on it’s stop. If it is the caliper is binding. Try tapping through the wheel the outer caliper with a wood drift and see if it’s still binding. If it is most likely the guide pins need cleaning and greasing. If not most likely the piston that sticking due to corrosion. Cleaning the piston doesn’t last long so best to replace. 

If the arm on the rear isn’t against the stop tap gently until it does and check for binding. It it binds see the previous for the caliper. If no binding unhook the cable from the arm and manually (probably need zip ties and screwdriver unless you’re the hulk) operate the arm and ensure it’s returning to the stop under the spring assistance.  If it doesn’t clean up the spring and lightly oil the spring and check again. If it still doesn’t return it could be a weak spring unusual but does happen, most likely is the spindle has rusted and binding on the o-ring where it enters the caliper. 

If the arms are operating correctly and returning to the stops then it’s the cable that needs replacing as excessive rust is preventing returning back to its position when the handbrake is off. 

Dealers try to tell me each year 2 clicks, then want £40 for adjustment that takes them 2 mins, a 10mm spanner and more time is spent raising the invoice, I suppose they count that too.

 

Personally prefer 4 clicks, seems more natural, also to make sure caliper lever goes fully off and a bit more movement of the cable in the sheath to reduce problems with dirt, corrosion etc.

1 hour ago, vRS G60 said:

Hardly any, 3 or 4 at most. There is no slack in the cable at all. It engages the handbrake the instant you pull the lever.

 

That will be because the caliper is stuck and the inner pad is touching the disc all the time. Its the inner pad that moves when you apply handbrake or footbrake and the caliper slides to distribute force to the outer pad in balance 

For reference, You can just get to the adjusting nut for the handbrake cables by removing the rear ashtray as mentioned above.

If you’ve just loosened the cable the problem will persist as handbrake cables don’t tighten themselves in the first place. 

This I know but it does give me some leeway with the mechanism at the caliper end. A bit of slack cable makes it easier to disconnect.

Edited 16 November, 20187 yr by vRS G60

7 hours ago, CWARD said:

If you’ve just loosened the cable the problem will persist as handbrake cables don’t tighten themselves in the first place. 

So the handbrake is not self adjusting?
Must be one of the only modern cars missing that feature.

17 minutes ago, Urrell said:

So the handbrake is not self adjusting?
Must be one of the only modern cars missing that feature.

 

Only for pad wear not cable stretch. See my third comment on this thread. The video below explains it

 

 

Edited 16 November, 20187 yr by CWARD

Well I took a look at this on Friday and thought I'd fixed it.

The pads were seized in the caliper and wouldn't move. I managed to get them out filed them slightly so they moved freely. And added copper slip grease,

The pistons weren't seized but were difficult to push back into the caliper, and the handbrake mechanism appeared to return to the stop.

 

Wheel moved freely when I put it back together.

This morning, got to work. One rear disc warm (too warm) the other very hot!!!!!

With the dark nights It's only Friday afternoon or weekend I can look at it.

 

Might be time for new calipers.

Edited 19 November, 20187 yr by vRS G60

The pistons are hard to push in as they tears require screwing in as you push. 

Did you clean and grease the pad slides as well the pins.

Hopefully you just need a good clean of the calipers. Only way to check the piston is to peel back the rubber gaiter. It doesn’t take much rust to stop them retracting properly 

Did the pad slides, forgot the pins! Moved freely though.

I have tool for pushing the pistons back in that pushes and screws at the same time.

Edited 19 November, 20187 yr by vRS G60

If it was difficult using the piston rewind tool then you’ve probably got a degree of corrosion on the pistons. 

2 hours ago, vRS G60 said:

Well I took a look at this on Friday and thought I'd fixed it.

The pads were seized in the caliper and wouldn't move. I managed to get them out filed them slightly so they moved freely. And added copper slip grease,

The pistons weren't seized but were difficult to push back into the caliper, and the handbrake mechanism appeared to return to the stop.

 

 

I unscrew the brake nipple then wind the pistons back so all the old fluid and crud in the caliper drains rather than goes back up the brake pipes, using a simple bleed kit attached, so air doesn't get in and no or less need for bleeding. This crud could be contributing to the pistons sticking in on position. If I have a sticky/hard to wind piston, I gently pump the piston out again ( make sure not to go too far) and repeat the exercise of winding back with nipple open. A couple of times of this has always freed the pistons for me.

 

Before reassembling clean/dress the caliper where the pads slide over them. Use brake grease on these surfaces, but only a little. Check the caliper floats back and forth freely before applying brakes for first time.