Hi guys,

first post in this section, I have recently purchased a mk2 2.0 elegance, sorted the rear brakes out, took the car for an M.O.T and it failed :(
C.V boot split                                                    SORTED
Headlight aim too low                                    SORTED

NS wiper not clearing screen                        SORTED
Rear belt not functioning as intended         SORTED
And lastly horn not working                         NOT SORTED

 

So I am stuck with the horn, several forum and internet searches pointed to the control module under the steering wheel. Also plugged in my snap-on verdict which gave the code J257 IIRC.

Purchased a S/H unit from ebay, my part no. reads 1K0953549G the replacement read AG at the end, according to the rosstech pages this unit would work with no need for coding.
I plugged everything back together but still no horn or radio controls Checked with the scanner and the ecu was reading the correct code for the replacement module.
I checked the voltages coming through the clock spring I have 11.6V and roughly 9V to the two pins that then plug into the small control module inside the wheel itself, the elegance has MFSW controls for radio ect. the horn also plugs into it.
I know the horn works as my scanner will activate it.

 

So my question is, the voltages coming the clock spring 11.6v and 9v do these suggest to anyone that the problem is still the under wheel module? I have the exact same reading with both the old and replacement unit.

As far as I understand one should be 5v for the can bus? 11.6v I can imagine being the 12v feed as the battery was a little weak, not being started and run for a while.

 

Thanks for any help you can offer, I'm really stumped with this one, but the more I think about it I can see that I have been sold a dodgy unit and that I'll have to fork out for another (£218 new from the dealership) to be honest I'd be half tempted to have a BRAND NEW module if there was a 100% chance of that fixing the problem and stopping me from pulling my hair out.

 

 

It's unlikely that both steering controllers have the same fault.

 

Not sure why you think a replacement module doesn't need coding. The replacement (new or used) module should be coded or at least check the code is correct after fitting.

 

There won't be CAN-bus coming through the clock spring, it'll be lin-bus. Not sure what voltages it runs on.

 

Things to try with VCDS or similar:

- measuring blocks to see if the car recognises the horn is pushed

- horn output test to see if the horn works

2 minutes ago, langers2k said:

It's unlikely that both steering controllers have the same fault.

 

Not sure why you think a replacement module doesn't need coding. The replacement (new or used) module should be coded or at least check the code is correct after fitting.

 

There won't be CAN-bus coming through the clock spring, it'll be lin-bus. Not sure what voltages it runs on.

 

Things to try with VCDS or similar:

- measuring blocks to see if the car recognises the horn is pushed

- horn output test to see if the horn works

Thank you for getting back to me,

The "code" had auto filled, a four or five digit number, cant remember exactly.

 

aha, lin-bus that explains the lin version on ross-tech, 7 to 12v according to google so my voltages fall within that range

 

Using the snap-on scanner, the horn button itself does not show that it is being operated, there is an option to use in expert mode and check the measuring blocks but I am not over confident with that.
Do you happen to know which blocks they are?

 

The horn 100% works as the scanner will operate it.

The code hasn't auto-filled, it still set to whatever the donor vehicle needed. It needs checking and possibly changing to match the equipment fitted in the Octavia.

 

VCDS normally labels measuring blocks and as I have a very different module it's unlikely to match yours.

 

At a guess, there might be a fault in the clock spring/slip ring. With the factory wiring diagram you can check it's working correctly by checking continuity. Pretty sure it's a separate unit on this car given the steering control module part number.

It is depressing that something that has always been the simplest, most reliable and easy to work on part of a vehicles electrical system should become so complicated and frustrating.

 

I would be tempted to hardwire a push button and forget about the overpriced temperamental electronics.

Yes clock spring is separate, I borrowed a working one from a mk5 golf, still nothing.

 

Aha the plot thickens, so if I assume the code in the old unit was the right one, copy it over to the new one, in theory that should work? Or how do I locate the code needed?

 

I did look into hard wiring direct to the horn button but it would have to go through the clock spring/cut up the control module to allow access for wires, unless I add a button to the column somewhere.

Something so simple shot down by a few microscopic components or the correct line up of 1's and 0's as the case may be!

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

It is depressing that something that has always been the simplest, most reliable and easy to work on part of a vehicles electrical system should become so complicated and frustrating.

 

I would be tempted to hardwire a push button and forget about the overpriced temperamental electronics.

Indeed.

 

The Octavia is the first car I've encountered in which the horn and high beam flash controls are disabled when the ignition is switched off/key removed.

 

I've always thought having them available regardless of ignition was a good safety idea.

That my MK1 Octavia was so reliable during its 500000kms and 13 years in my ownership really did me a dis-service because I did not have the opportunity to keep on top of the game regarding vehicle repairs and the changing technology.

 

I did not even know in all that time that it had some canbus modules until the doorlocking played up leaving me with 3 doors deadlocked. In hindsight had I already had VCDS and the chance to play with and become confident with it then I would not have ended up scrapping the vehicle.

 

However its MK2 replacement was so cheap and has so many new or improved features that it won the day and its also given me a near vertical learning curve regarding modern vehicle electronics and frankly the unecessary complication like a PLC having to route the signal from a horn switch to a relay to activate the horn is very offputting.

 

to date all I have been doing is playing catch up with existing faults that the main dealers and garages failed to resolve over a 12 year period costing the owners thousands of £s for nothing, if it remains reliable I will have made the right decision and gained some for me essential knowledge in the process.

 

All good then but it means I have used this forum 100 times more in 2 months than I did over 13 years with the MK1 and in doing so have been horrified to read about the unreliability of more modern variants and their complicated emissions equipment, I am still 12 years behind the curve and frankly dont want to catch up any more, I have seen the future and i dont like it.

 

If this vehicle is unreliable then I will do what I had long been considering, either go back to a late 90's or early 2000's VAG vehicle from when they were uncomplicated but reliable or even further back to an 80's Toyota BJ40 diesel jeep.

2 hours ago, Johnaldridge101 said:

if I assume the code in the old unit was the right one, copy it over to the new one, in theory that should work?

 

In the absence of langers's expertise for now, I'm going to say yes, that sounds right.

Found it, I think? It will be Friday before I can get to the car and have another go.

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Skoda_Octavia_(1Z)_Steering_Wheel#Coding

 

It really is off putting, I am 30, have been around technology all my life almost, yet the ammount of electronics being shoe horned (needlessly) into cars every generation is baffling. 

This horn for example, I see no reason why it has to be controlled or even routed through the module, it still utilises a bloody relay to do the actual work!

 

That chart looks sensible so it should help code the module. VCDS has it built in so I've never had to go searching for it

 

Based on that and this page http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Steering_Wheel_Control_Module_Versions both modules are SW101 or lower. Therefore you should just be able to copy the coding across.

 

Hopefully on Friday you'll be able to confirm it's correctly coded and find the appropriate measuring block for the horn. At a guess, it'll show it's not being pressed which would suggest either:

- faulty module (unlikely as it's been swapped)

- faulty clockspring (unlikely as you've tried another, assuming it was compatible)

- faulty airbag/horn wiring loom

- a bad connection somewhere in that list

On 21/11/2018 at 14:55, Johnaldridge101 said:

Hi guys,

first post in this section, I have recently purchased a mk2 2.0 elegance, sorted the rear brakes out, took the car for an M.O.T and it failed :(
C.V boot split                                                    SORTED
Headlight aim too low                                    SORTED

NS wiper not clearing screen                        SORTED
Rear belt not functioning as intended         SORTED
And lastly horn not working                         NOT SORTED

 

So I am stuck with the horn, several forum and internet searches pointed to the control module under the steering wheel. Also plugged in my snap-on verdict which gave the code J257 IIRC.

Purchased a S/H unit from ebay, my part no. reads 1K0953549G the replacement read AG at the end, according to the rosstech pages this unit would work with no need for coding.
I plugged everything back together but still no horn or radio controls Checked with the scanner and the ecu was reading the correct code for the replacement module.
I checked the voltages coming through the clock spring I have 11.6V and roughly 9V to the two pins that then plug into the small control module inside the wheel itself, the elegance has MFSW controls for radio ect. the horn also plugs into it.
I know the horn works as my scanner will activate it.

 

So my question is, the voltages coming the clock spring 11.6v and 9v do these suggest to anyone that the problem is still the under wheel module? I have the exact same reading with both the old and replacement unit.

As far as I understand one should be 5v for the can bus? 11.6v I can imagine being the 12v feed as the battery was a little weak, not being started and run for a while.

 

Thanks for any help you can offer, I'm really stumped with this one, but the more I think about it I can see that I have been sold a dodgy unit and that I'll have to fork out for another (£218 new from the dealership) to be honest I'd be half tempted to have a BRAND NEW module if there was a 100% chance of that fixing the problem and stopping me from pulling my hair out.

 

 

 

Might sound daft but has it become unconnected at the horn. Saying this is few weeks ago I done a thread on it . The Skoda dealer quoted about £80 to replace it but when he got to the horn via mud cover front wheel he found it had become diconnected.

Ok then, small update, managed to get the code from the old unit, checking against the table on ross-tech all looks good, the only difference in the code between the old and new unit was transmission type (mine is DSG) I'm not sure how much this could affect the steering module without having flappy paddles.

Still no horn :'( and same fault code displayed.

I checked the pins that run through the clock spring again (with the new module in place) 11v and 13v to the two pins that run to the small in steering wheel module (car was running and battery had been charged up hence 13volts this time around)

 

I thought I'd be clever and input a code for a basic steering wheel with just a horn (code 010042) the code was accepted by the ECU, all good I thought.

Now using a meter, I checked which pins from the clock spring had power going to them, the previous 11v and 13v had gone and another pin that was not powered before now had 13v to it WOOHOO......
Using a small off cut of wire I bridged the earth and now live pin BEEP BEEP the bloody horn works ........... it also BEEP'S when indicating right haha! I think it’s because the stalk has cruise control rather than low line spec.

 

Now I could try and swap the stalk from a different car but I'm confident it’s the small module inside the wheel that has been causing so much grief! Part No. 3c0959542 £144.58 from the main dealer. Found one for £35 off eBay that I'll take a chance on.

 

I will update as soon the part comes and I have had chance to fit it.

Good work.

UPDATE, the horn is working perfectly now  along with all of the MFSW controls!!! The small control module in the wheel itself was the culprit.

 

The car is booked in for its MOT tomorrow, fingers crossed it will fly through as I have done everything on the fail sheet!

 

Thank you to all who have commented especially Langers2k.

 

John.