Okay, so, i want to know.. i have a phone/bband socket in the hall. I assume its the maser, but ive no gaurantee there isnt some junction or other in the attic under the fixed floor.

Our router and phone are plugged into it. The wifi isnt able to reach the back end of the house, so i got a repeater the other day, plugged in, working fine.

 

To the front of the house is a "study" in here there had been a bit of a messy phone socket. 2cables plugged in, one running around the room to a no longer there sky box and the other, i wasnt sure about, but unplugging it didnt cause any problems, went back into the wall and vanished. I removed this socket as the cover had been broken and the socket pointless, and stuck out too far for the shelving unit to fit tight to the skirting board. (Today i discovered the cable went up into the attic and was where they had the skybox connected by magic eye to the sitting room...)

Anyway, since the repeater is working perfectly fine and now wifi is good in the back, im thinking of relocating the router out of the way to the study.

 

Problem is... i cant find the picture i know i took of the inside of the socket to re wire it.

 

So... if i open the socket in the hall and have a look at the cable colours and positions, would matching the layout in the study be a safe enough bet to make it work?

 

Thanks!

I can't speak for the Irish setup directly but the BT standard here is normally 2 wires coming into the master socket and 3 wires (2x signal, 1x bell) going out to the secondary sockets. BT (well, OpenReach these days) tend to stick to standards so their wire colours are likely the same throughout any installation, something I'd expect for any reasonably professional wiring job.

 

Your friendly local phone company used to be Telecom Eireann IIRC.  Try this link for details.

Yeah... Telecomm Eireann became Eircom when they were privatised and ruined...

IF the one you assume is the master, then it should have a "split " plate on the front .( I assume Telecom Eireann ) would follow the same principle as BT/OR. Howeverr ,there is an easy way to tell if t his socket is a master . First of all it will have only two wires connected to it. Secondly it will have (usually yellow) tubular componant somewhere inside approx 25mm long and about 8-9 mm in diameter ( possibly marker 1.8 uF 250 V). All secondaries do not /should not have this componant. It's a capacitor, designed to allow AC ringing to pass from pin 2 to pin 3 to ring other bells, but block DC to the other bells. Extension wiring is simple( assuming Ire uses same system as UK).

Internal wiring comes in many sizes depending on age and what was flavour of month, from 4 wire ( ancient) consisting of Blue /orange/green and brown. Line would be blue + orange and ringing one of the others. Or 6 wires =white wire + blue marker and blue wire and white marker ,with an orange and a green pair marked similarly or ( unusual in domestics) an 8 wire cable with a brown pair as the extra.

However, only THREE wires are needed for a domestic single line installaton. On 6/8wire cables it's blue pair for th line and one of the orange pair for the bell .Purists will say that it should be a set way, BUT as long as th same convention is followed for all extensions then there will be no problems.

Line comes in from outside ( usually in heavier wire than used internally) and in UK BT wrap this under screw heads. That would be th master. From the master three wires are used.

Wire from master 2& 5 with the blue pair  and from 3 with one of th orange pair. ( I always used the convention, wrong I know, of colours high. i.e. Blue with white marker to 5 , white with blue marker to 2 and white with orange marker to 3).

if you wish to play with wiring after master, then I'd suggest buying an IDC tool- most commonly refered to as a Punchdown tool.  Dead easy to use and it's useful for Cat 5  
BTW- as for the Sky additions- that could be a red herring. Sky blokes might be good at Sat TV, but I’ve seen them do some shockers with telecomms wiring.   Their favourite is to fit a master socket  despite the fact that any more than one master can couse problems ( such as ring trip).

Just noticed the bit about broken socket- probably fitted too low in first place and Mrs Hoover whacked it. cOMMON PROBLEM

Mac- if you need a diagram - ask  and I'll do my best.

Edited 13 January, 20197 yr by VWD

Oh dont talk to me about sky blokes..

MILs house was done by a complete muppet and her bband never worked properly until i went and gutted out all his "very important phone wires"...

Suddenly, sky, the bband, the house alarm and phone all worked properly...

I had same in daughter's place. First she had Virgin, complete with a phone set up and a coax run like aunties knitting over skirting and over a door frame. Then she got Sky- more wiring ,again run like aunties knitting. That's despite the fact that I'd wired the house ,discretely, with phone points in lounge ,second one beside TV, one in kitchen and another in bedroom. Virgin are no better. BB coax to my den was run up a white painted wall in black coax . It wouldn't have been so bad, but it was run at an angle . I suffered it two weeks and called them back to run the cable up the dark wall.

ADSL,  if it's sent over the phone line ,or FTTC . It's a HF signal superimposed on a phone line. Injected at exchange or cabinet and extracted at house by a filter. My version for a WiFi router is simple. At my BT master socket, I fit a filter. Out of the phone side, I fit a telephone type plug. Next to this I have a master socket, connected to the rest of the house. Out of the telephone side of the filter, I connect a telephone plug wired into the master on the house side of the filter. I plug the WiFi router into the BB side of the filter.

Right, i opened the hall socket -

2 wires to L1 & L2.

A nest of god knows what behind it in the box hole.

 

The socket in the study is the same type, and L1,L2 screws are loosened, S side are tight, so L's are the ones that were used clearly.

Have a choice though... go blue pair like the hall or orange pair to be different

 

Assume i go blue, what do i with the orange? Just leave them loose in the box?

 

Well blue to L1 and L2 is a bust... just tried moving the router onto it, and i got a big fat no internet and engaged tone ringing my mobile via landline

Why not leave the blue pair disconnected and and ring. If line rings, then short blues and see what happens. Does lin answer ? If so - that's th incoming line. But it might b tagged into before this point. I'd be looking for a black cable with 4 wires in it- an orange and white ( pair one ) and green and black ( pair two) if it's a modern day  overhead cable, or just a black or grey single pair overhead line, if it's older.

Well, after stripping out the un-needed wardrobe, i found another phone line socket..

normal flat plate extension type. Just opened it and its the orange pair are connected

 

 

it is a possibility that the first owners had 2 lines fitted to the house, and the study one was second master... 

 

anyway, im gonna try the orange pair.. see what doesnt happen

 

 

Edited 2 February, 20197 yr by mac11irl

Well, it isnt orange either

 

i even bother plugging into the bedroom socket, and it did nothing.. i think i need to go crawling in the attic and start tracing cables. . If i can be arsed..

Mac- might be worth going back to basics. Walk round the outside of house and see where overhead comes into house. Then try and follow line from there. Any cable that is of type white with blue marker/ blue with white marker etc is an internal cable, and seldom used outside, so there MUST be a point where the external meets the internal. ( Internal cable would be blue pair ,then orange pair, Green pair and sometimes brown pair, but most domestic UK places seldom are fitted with an 8 wire cable, as a 6w is the norm). Any external cable to the property will be either a figure of 8 old style cable ,or a more modern two pair cable, where the first pair is orange + white and second pair is green + black.

Failing that, if the local telephone system has a test system, get into the test system and once you've got rid of the line problems get the system to send a tone down the line. But for that you'll need a tone tracing kit.