Hybrid Turbos

[Boatman1]

Are there any issues/common problems with using a hybrid turbo on the vrs, I read somewhere that battery power can be one issue. Any advice would be gratefully accepted.

[sepulchrave]

35 minutes ago, Boatman1 said:

Are there any issues/common problems with using a hybrid turbo on the vrs, I read somewhere that battery power can be one issue. Any advice would be gratefully accepted.

 

A hybrid will lunch your clutch and DMF unless it's already been done. No battery power issues but the stock intercooler will struggle as well.

[Boatman1]

Have been recommended to install an airtec intercooler and darkside downpipe I asked the map guy about the clutch his response was they would lengthen out the power curve so that it doesn't wreck the clutch, I take that to mean more power in the mid range.

[Skoda_Saint]

Torque kills clutches yes, however a standard clutch "can" go on a standard turbo let alone a hybrid turbo, circa 180bhp +. As a hybrid will go over the 200bhp mark then at some point the clutch will give up the ghost and part of the fun on those cars is the torque. So bank on upgrading the clutch and you should upgrade the front brakes if not done already. Look over the forums here and see other peoples remarks on this and of course the turbos. A PD150 hybrid can flow circa 230bhp give or take but everyone has been going for the GTB1756 as this is supposed to be a better turbo and doesn't require modifications like those that get bigger. (GTB2260 etc)

[Titanium_Man]

Been running a hybrid turbo for years with no issues with the battery. Never heard that before!

 

My turbo isn’t being maxed out, it’s  putting out around 216 & 325 with a “clutch friendly map” but 30k miles later I know the DMF is on its way but the clutch itself still feels pretty strong. (Clutch and Dmf was 27k miles old when the hybrid was installed)

 

Yes, the map did lengthen the curve to spread the power, (peak power for me is  now at 4400 revs) but it’s the torque that kills the clutch and dmf and not the bhp, which is still much lower than peak bhp at around 2800 revs. All the mapper is doing is delaying the inevitable; you will need a better clutch and Dmf to make the most of the hybrid turbo, no matter how much mechanical sympathy you drive with. 

 

 

 

 

[Boatman1]

Thank you both for your insight. Saint, who makes the GTB1756 you recommend?

[Skoda_Saint]

There now a plethora of suppliers out there, Skillaturbo's and Xman are just two of the suppliers that I've heard of. Do your research and look into reviews of any and all suppliers before forking over the £.

 

Darkside are REALLY expensive and will only work on cars with all their parts fitted. Pluses and minuses of most suppliers out there ,I wouldn't go to TRP personally but that's just my opinion. Some people swear by certain company's as they have a vested interests i.e. part sponsored or in other ways tied to them.

 

Do the research and have a good talk with a few and see who you get the best gut reaction to. And finally make sure you can go see them if needed in order to get any issues resolved face to face, which is good in most situations like that.

 

And equally puzzled by the battery power issue, mine was moved to the boot and I upgraded to a better amp draw because of the distance involved but never had issues with the standard battery whatsoever in normal location.

[duck]

I have a GTB1756vk fitted, I got it from profidiesel

 

I took a gamble on them as the prices were so much better than what I could get in the UK, it turned out to be a good gamble and I was very happy with them and would not hesitate to buy from them again.

 

GTB is not a 'plug and play' option, hybrid 150 would be easier to install.

 

I am on clutch number 3 with the GTB fitted, currently a Sachs SRE with SMF which is coping fine and the best clutch I have had so far.

 

Personally I don't see the point of fitting parts to increase power and then restricting what it can do through the mapping to save the clutch, budget for a quality clutch and do the job properly. 

[Titanium_Man]

21 hours ago, duck said:

 

Personally I don't see the point of fitting parts to increase power and then restricting what it can do through the mapping to save the clutch, budget for a quality clutch and do the job properly. 

 

Normally I would agree, but as mine was so new there really was no point cranking it just to eat a perfectly good clutch and Dmf. At 1k for a bit of kit that could cope, just not worth putting a new one in just for the sake of it. 

 

After 4 years my Dmf has just this month started to show signs that’s is going, so I disagree that it was not worth the wait. 

[duck]

No problem jars, we can agree to disagree nothing wrong with that.

 

My way of looking at it would be you could have had 4 years of full power vs 4 years of restricted power but totally your own choice.

 

I had a rattling DMF and knowing I planned to go GTB I fitted an uprated clutch, I did learn a valuable lesson though as the first 2 uprated clutches both failed (cheap clutches = failure), now I have coughed up for SMF and Saches SRE all is good.

[Titanium_Man]

1 hour ago, duck said:

No problem jars, we can agree to disagree nothing wrong with that.

- agreed 

 

1 hour ago, duck said:

My way of looking at it would be you could have had 4 years of full power vs 4 years of restricted power but totally your own choice.

- the way I see is at full power would have only given me 12 months with the standard clutch, but I got an extra 3 years by having about 50ft lbs less torque and maybe 20 bhp, which simply wasn’t worth the hassle and cost at the time.

 

Of course, it is inveiatble that the Dmf would need changing at some point, but this way I get 2 power increases to enjoy rather than 1.  My plan is to change the clutch and Dmf when it’s time, at which point I will also drop in an LSD 

 

[Boatman1]

Duck, thanks for the info if you don't mind my asking how much did the SMF & SRE cost you including fitting and where did you get it from?

I believe the Turbo I have been quoted is for a reconditioned Garrett 1756 £695 plus fitting, Darkside down pipe £175 race catalyst £83 (wanted to stay legal) and airtec intercooler £412 plus custom map £375 the quote is from Ecotune in Glasgow, I went to see them. I liked the people and their set up and checked the prices which all seem to be in line. My only dilemma is how far to go, as far as I can tell at the moment my clutch and flywheel feel Ok, the car has been well driven on long journeys and never near the redline, I feel there's quite a bit left in the clutch.

[duck]

Clutch/flywheel kit

 

I fitted it myself, flippin expensive but you get what you pay for, it's very noisy so think carefully before going SMF.

 

If you clutch feels ok then why not just stick with it and see how it copes, as long as you are prepared to replace it if needed then it won't be a ££ shocker if if slips straight away.

[Boatman1]

5 hours ago, duck said:

Clutch/flywheel kit

 

I fitted it myself, flippin expensive but you get what you pay for, it's very noisy so think carefully before going SMF.

 

If you clutch feels ok then why not just stick with it and see how it copes, as long as you are prepared to replace it if needed then it won't be a ££ shocker if if slips straight away.

Are you a mechanic? It's a brave attempt if not. When you say noisy how noisy? Can it be made quieter? I was expecting the price to be more. I need to consider the cost of another map if I need to replace the clutch/flywheel later. Thanks for all the info.

Edited 29 January, 2019 by Boatman1
forgot something

[duck]

SMF sounds like this, the video is not the darkside SMF but it sounds exactly the same:

 

 

 

Edited 29 January, 2019 by duck

[Boatman1]

Many many thanks duck.