I was quite happily going to do my cam belt today when I got stopped by the crankshaft pulley bolts being b'stards.

I don't think they were changed after the last belt chnage at 76K and the car is on 141K, hence why I am doing it.

I even went and bought a brand spankers 6mm allen key socket, but I tried it again and they won't budge and I'm worried they will start rounding out so I stopped for the day.

I shall order some new bolts as I am of the opinion that these are going to be damaged when they eventually come out, but how do you guys get them out?

Any ideas what else I can do?

 

2.0 TFSI Petrol BWA engine BTW

Edited 18 February, 20197 yr by munster

Just in case, the parts catalogue for the BWA engine  specifies a 12 point bolt (a VAG special not a Torx) rather than an Allen bolt. Item 5 on the diagram.  Note that the diagram is for a 2005 model but later years' diagrams are available if you root about a bit.

 

Are you sure they aren't splined bolts?

 

Good access and an impact driver should do the job.

MicMac

I thought that too but when I tried both it was definately an Allen bolt!

 

Sticky

I can't see that site anymore for some reason, my PC used to let me then it had a headfit and stopped letting me see it. I use https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/

now.

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2006-419/1/105-105040/#9

If you look at the photo it shows an Allen bolt if I'm not mistaken - does it make any difference?

Skoda dealer want 68p each which is fine but can't get them until Wednesday, when I'm back to work!!

Would it matter if I just went to the local nuts and bolts place and asked for 6 x 8mmx16 bolts???

Don't you have an impact wrench?

 

Failing that, if you can get a dolly or a punch the same size of the head, or bigger, and give them a few good wacks, that can help.

 

You are in a sorry state if you can't deal with a few allen caps 

The bolts are most likely high tensile if you're buying from a third party.

33 minutes ago, StickyMicky said:

The bolts are most likely high tensile if you're buying from a third party.

As opposed to? I'm not being facetious  but what's the difference to what's already on there?

If you are changing the cam belt why do you need to remove the crankshaft pulley bolts?

To take the pulley off to take the cam belt cover off.

 

Tip that has worked for me many times with stubborn bolts; try to tighten a bit first before loosening. You probably won't succeed in tightening, but the torque that way seems to break the 'welds' that are holding things fast.

Something that can and does work is to get a kettle of boiling water and pour over the bolts and surrounding area. It can give enough heat to expand the metal and break the seized-ness.

 

Didn't believe it at first when my aged uncle told me about it. He was an flight engineer on Sunderland Flying Boats in East Africa in the 1940's so knew a lot about engineering. I had very seized wheel bolts on an old Renault. Nothing would budge them. Tried the boiling water and presto - bolts undone. Same as a rear freehub on son's bike. Seized solid - not even a 2 foot breaker bar would shift. Boiling water and presto - undone with a good heave.

Well I finally got them out but had to drill all 6 of the heads off!

A couple came out with some pliers grabbing them the rest had to be drilled and  then I hit a torx into the drill hole and screwed them out. A right pain in the arse I can tell you.

Anyway, Cam belt, waterpump, tensioner done and the serpetine belt and tensioner.

Just forgot to get any coolant so can't turn her over, oh well c'est la vie.

 

So it was simply the friction of the bolt heads against the pulley that resisted undoing with the correct tool then?

 

Glad you had the room to get a drill in, maybe an impact wrench would have got them started, did you definitely use the right splined bit from the start?

 

I have undone some incredibly tight (resistant) bolts, there is a lot of surface corrosion on mt suspension (car lived by the sea) and I always think the fastener is seized with rust but once they give they undo like they are brand new, I sometimes think our cars are too well made, less precision machining and they would undo on their own

JR

You could be right, I didn't have an impact gun until day 2 so possibly.

They weren't splined mate 6mm allen bolt, which is exactly the same as Skoda supplied when I ordered the replacements!

I'm of the opinion that I won't be doing the cam belt on this car again, as I will have moved on by then.

I have to say the belts that came off were in very good condition for 70k and 8 years old. The only thing that I found was the tensioner wasn't as you would set it up i.e. the lug and the cutout. Once my phone is charged I'll add the photo so you can make an informed opinion. I was thinking it was starting to lose it's tension but I don't really know if I'm honest.

 

I still have about 4.5L of G12 coolant albeit I see G13 is recommended now, does it matter? Also what is the capacity of the MK2 petrol vrs (BWA) after water pump change etc I know I could search but I figured whilst I was replying I might as well ask. :-)