Hello Guys,

 

I usually do a lot of my own servicing but don't generally touch brakes however I'm wanting to flush and change my brake fluid as its been a couple of years since its had any work done on the brakes and is probably due. I've got a Gunson Eezibleed and read through several how-to's and am fairly happy with the procedure, however the kit comes with four caps that go onto the brake fluid reservoir - two are obviously too small however the other two are listed in the owners manual as:

 

1) 44/45mm - this is a smooth circular cap and appears to have two rubber washers with it

2) 46mm - this cap is gnurled

 

I have highlighted them in the attached image.

 

I have dry fitted both caps to the reservoir and both appear to fit and screw onto the thread without issue.

 

I've read several horror stories about these kits not sealing properly with the reservoir and brake pedals dropping to the floor and want to avoid anything like that first time out so was wondering if anyone could advise as to what size cap i should be using and how to configure the seals.

 

Thanks in advance

 

I used the same kit in my mk2 VRS. I’m sure it’s the knurled cap that you use. 

 

To make sure its airtight use plumbers ptfe tape around the bottle neck and the brass nut that goes into the cap. You can also use it around the brake fluid reservoir too. 

Before you try to pump brake fluid through dry fit it and pressure it up to see if there is any leaks that way you won’t spray under your bonnet with brake fluid. Remember to reduce the tyre pressure too to around 26psi. 

When you come to change the fluid remove as much of the old fluid as you can from the reservoir first but leave a few mm in the bottom to prevent air entering. Fill the reservoir with clean fluid then connect up the eezibleed.

 

Make sure the bleed nipples are free before starting the job. Use a six sided socket so it doesn’t slip and round the nipple off. Once you checked them, nip them up and then use a ring spanner to open and close the nipple. 

 

Don’t rush the job and you’ll do fine. 

Thanks CWARD, appreciate the thorough response.

 

Having previously helped a mate on his car and seen him strip one of his bleed valves with a ring spanner I've been out and invested in a flare line spanner and some decent penetrating oil.

 

Out of interest can you recall the order for bleeding; I've been told start furthest from master cylinder and work your way back towards it - however I've read online to do the opposite on the MKV GTi platform (Front Left first, rear right last)

 

Thanks again

It is normally furthest from the reservoir to closest but I know the Skoda was different so probably the same as the GTI. If it makes any difference I’m not sure but I did follow the recommended order. 

20 minutes ago, BigJakk said:

Having previously helped a mate on his car and seen him strip one of his bleed valves with a ring spanner I've been out and invested in a flare line spanner and some decent penetrating oil.

 

 

A ring spanner is better for not rounding off than a flare nut spanner surely? A flare nut spanner will have a tendency to open out as its got a slot cut in it.

The bleed nipple would snap off long before you reached the torque reguired to splay the ends of the flare spanner apart. 

Flare nut spanners tend to have 6 flats, ring spanners 12 corners.

 

Once rounded off neither are effective so use the best tool you have for the job.

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Flare nut spanners tend to have 6 flats, ring spanners 12 corners.

 

Once rounded off neither are effective so use the best tool you have for the job.

 

To prevent them rounding off in the first place it's better to grip the bleed nipple with maximum surface area, hence the 6 sides rather just the corners. @BigJakk you'll be fine with what you have

 

I use a flare nut spanner or a deep socket with flat sides. The socket with a t-bar seem to allow more even application of force - I am using 1/4 drive for this so the t-bar is fairly short. Brass wire bush around the base of the nipple and a squirt of penetrating oil left for 10 mins or so seems to help too. The Easi-bleed is fab, so much easier than all that pumping. Fliud is cheap and you can't really store it once open so I just tend to buy a couple of bottles and flush the thing through really well.

 

However you do it, its a nervy moment until that 'crack' when the nipple turns :-) . I've only sheared one off, on the back of an elderly Astra drum brake, and that was easier to replace the whole wheel cylinder than bother trying to rescue the nipple.

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Flare nut spanners tend to have 6 flats, ring spanners 12 corners.

 

 

I suppose more modern sets tend to, I have a good selection of older spanners that have 6 flats, or I just use a proper hex socket if fastener is questionable.

I've just used a low power impact driver to do mine.    Started with a 6point socket manually and found it not wanting to shift.   Put the impact driver on just feathering the trigger and it released them all no problem.

Obviously I wouldn't use a high power impact gun but the little cheapy impact driver was great.